leolito

I asked my neighbour, and he said this type of error usually is a coolant circulation problem, either blockage on the pump side or in the heater side, or a defective pump and therefore coolant remains "trapped" in the temp reading area and quickly overheats. On the other hand, sounds like is not the issue if you claim the pump and circuit were verified (how?). I am also unsure as why you would have so large difference in the reported coolant temp listed 46 and 15. I would really look in booking in some other place to have a second opinion. can you post the entire log for the diagnosis?

This function was disabled sometime in the lift of the SIII, as deemed probably too "simply clever" 🙄 it appears to be retrofittable, probably needs a module swap and coding as well.

Check tire pressure as well, colder air has an effect on them, might not be enough to trigger the TPMS but enough to lower the car's efficiency.

I would recommend you search in your area for a Webasto specialist centre, which for sure are more experienced in the heaters than not Skoda dealer. If I see my neighbour, which works in such place, I will ask him if he has come across this, what could be.

You are the man! What a great topic! Now the question is ...could it be repaired? Where do you buy gold hairs? 😝

Pity to hear you missed that option. I thought hard and long and this is the way I intend to do, once the runabout expires, which she does not want to 🤪

Thanks for the explanation! I was actually thinking why the emphasis on so large tires on EVs, for me the antithesis of "economy running", but I guess I was wrong.

No, I am not ready for an EV with the usage that I make, I already have a city runabout that takes the brunt of the day-to-day, so I needed a 'travel car'. And inspite of all the pushing and shoving, when I am facing +1000km travel in a short time, long stops are not what I am thinking .... I would have liked the 'bridge' of a PHEV, but since I did not want a SUV but wanted 4x4 and decent performance, the only decent options were MB, Audi, or Volvo. None of them three filled the blanks needed, hence I skipped the PHEV phase .... Next in line was a decent and balanced ICE, and here I am.

This is gold! There are a lot of nice models to .... go crazy about 🤪 in anycase I saw there are 5mm spacers available, worse case scenario ....

I do that as well, but I have taken up since a few years, whenever I need to make a longer run (especially out of town), when I get back, to drop to a nearby auto-wash, the one with the coins, and just pressure-wash with clean water the front and engine underside, the sills, inside the wheel wells and I just slap the nozzle underside wherever it goes and splash around. Yeah, I know is not a pro-wash, but I guess it is better than just leave the salty and whatever chemicals they use and water overnight .... I do this even if is late if I have time, it takes me 10min, or the day after .....

Don't they comment on yer car and the things done to it? 😋

Are you talking coolant temp or oil temp?

Yes as above your car should "probably" have G12 or G12 evo, and "apparently" G40 is a longer shelf-live and interval, less performance oriented type of coolant. I would stick to what is prescribed for your car and stay away from strange alchemy mixes. If you just need a small top up and don't want to faff about with buying collant and mixing it (if "concentrare" you need to dilute it, is not "ready for use"), just get some distilled water, small quantities up to say half a liter/liter will not endanger the "mix" of coolant in the car and will dispel any worries of chemistry misalignment between types of coolant. Mind you, we are going very deep into mechanical fetish here ... most people and cars go with tap water and so be it 🤪 PS: as you state your car is 2016, by now you should have had at least one coolant replacement, unless you bought used and have no record. In that case, I'd advise having a full replacement with the pescribed type, and leave the bottle of G40 as a donation to whoever does the service and be done with it .... 😁

Nice problem solving! 😉

I got a good deal on a set of Goodyear UG Perf 3 on 225/55-17 and this is what I will use. Hope to gather also relevant feeling about how the 280 performs with a 'downsized' from the summer 19s, which are at the end, so I will think what to do for next year, whether to downgrade to say 18s rims or to keep the 19s.

I got a pretty good deal on 'fresh' Goodyear UG Perf 3 and that is what I will use.

And I know is bread for pub talk, but I am not sure dealing with lots of mileage on 'rough roads', whether an XL tire has an edge over a "normal" one. I mean, the reinforced sidewall has its advantages and disadvantages, on one side it holds better against a sudden impact (say a pothole taken at speed), but at the same time flexes less and transmits more the shock to the rim, and suspension components. I guess there is no definitive answer, as there are a multitude of variables: in the example above, at what speed the pothole is hit, the tire load index, mass of the vehicle, and so on ... Personally, I prefer to steer away from heavy/tough/rigid tires, my experiences with XLs, run-flats and in general "heavy duty" tires is that they provide a very rough ride, and I do not need such perfomance advantage they provide over a "regular" tire.

Marky's posts are very correct, it is very difficult to assess and provide an "unique" formula for ride/harshness/spec ... each person has its own way to feel and measure this. You have to go and try, trial and error, even for expensive things as tires. No other way. To each its own. The only thing you can be certain is on how strict if your MOT system, if you have some leeway, you can get around it. Martini above is from Latvia as well, if it worked for him, might do for you as well. I have chosen 94H on 17s for my winters, discarding multitude of 101/XL options. Again, each one makes its choices. Will see how they go this season, and this will give me some input for next year, as the summers are practically on their end-life (3y/45k km).

If you can get the car to a clean and elevated area, try to spot the pivoting mechanism, as mentioned above by Bap that would be the first place to look at. Soon I need to replace the tires and when I lift it will look also, you got me curious ...

On these cool days, mine does it on start up also - another job to add to the list! 😉

I consider this a worrying heads' up, I had dealer change fluid and "serviced" the Haldex but most likely they did not took the pump out and clean the strainer ... will do this incognito when time allows, I think to remember also the gasket and bolts are needed, which seem readily available.

Really? How many kms/miles it had? Unexpected failure indeed ....

How did it go? Sometimes I have this what you mention happening in my RRP38 but well .... that is a Land Rover and strange things are expected! Try with another fob, in case yours "lost" the synchonization with the car.

Well, I hope he wasn't hinting at removing the dashboard ... 🤪 I also would not want to do that! But the idea of squirting down there through the speaker hole might be sufficient ...

I think no car in its category can beat the Superb for rear seat space and leg room. My neighbour has a Kodiaq of the same vintage as mine, he bought new, I bough second hand this year. Honestly, I would not trade one for the other ... but each person has its own thinking. About "faffing at the dealer", I do not see why not, after all, is one main requirement you have to make the choice of the car! When I did my bidding at a car dealer, I would sometimes have people come in with their specific requests, be it a babay stroller, their sales catalogue (briefcase with cloth samples, I still remember!), often would ask if it was possible to have a demo car to try the garage for size ... if you think a sales person will turn you away at that, yes, it can happen, but that is a fairly unprofessional person you better shouldn't deal with in any case ....