BlueWagon

Under what conditions? Idle, high or low rpm?? Does it extinguished when you rev it up a bit? Sounds like low oil pressure, most likely to Manifest at LOW rpm where pump is spinning slower and oil is warm (thin). Normally engines have great oil pressure when cold as the oil is thick Id measure the pressure under a few conditions

Mine poped up the other day. As I looked at it and wondered what it was as I drove along, the washer fluid low light popped up. I topped up the washer fluid and all good. Maybe a past intermittent non serious warning like washer fluid...

Not sure older engine formula is that appropriate for a modern car. Does it need the VW spec your engine requires?

Brake....ha ha

I doubt that happened Maybe sitting around for a year lead to lack of lubrication in cam etc and maybe when they started it they didn't prime the oil system. Almost sounds like diesel engine injection clatter. Maybe give the fuel system a good clean out and give an oil change

Yeah alright guv....pull the other one 😀 If you don't want to change the brake fluid, don't. Not a good idea but totally up to you

None if you follow the procedure. Pretty sure you just keep the res full and draw the fluid off the lower parts.

They probably didn't it but never told you (or you didn't hear correctly) A bit. But you don't run with air in it. Probably fine for 10 yrs...the poor soul who inherited your car may have cursed you as the corrosion started to dominate their brake system It's not closed. Still absorbs moisture at the master cylinder... As you said, we never changed it in the past but that was to the detriment of our cars a bit. Not a heap, but Id change it at least every 5 yrs. Doubt it will actually ever boil due to moisture but the corrosion would be a thing for me

Just cruise without hard braking for a few mins after your mad stuff. The airflow over the rotors will help cool them down a bit. Heaps cheaper and probably good to let the turbo cool down a bit too

Really there should be 0 consumption. In practice many cars leak a small amount. I have never topped mine up (1.4TSI) in 2 yrs. You probably have a small leak. Id locate that if you want to stop the thing using coolant. It may be evident by some pink crusty stuff around a hose or even the coolant cap

Take it to the local auto parts place or watch repair joint. Im sure they will be able to open Yours may be glued or something but unlikely

Is it actually a vacuum rather than pressure? Also, the sloshing of the petrol will build up a bit over vapour pressure even when cold

Pretty sure most front wheel drive cars toe out..... Rear wheel drive toe in or parallel

Id say that disproves it. But did you bleed the system properly after egr removed? If not you may have subsequently cooked the head/gasket

If it slips, change it then Adjust driving to preserve clutch. Eg limit riding clutch and standstill burnouts I wouldn't worry about it unless it slips.

Can you describe how it cuts out. Eg Splutters Looses power Slowly dies off How does the restart go? Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly Sounds electrical to me

Bad choice AI is not intelligent, it just matches word patterns. Id stick to human or good old internet searches

Pretty sure it's a timing belt, so I'd be finding a new more competent garage. Id go to these guys. I understand that the interval is more like Inspection at 240,000km Inspection every 30K thereafter Replace at 290K or 15 yrs of you want (185k miles) I did mineat 300,000km. Seemed fine before that (I inspect it a few times, no cracks or frays) but the idlers are probably the weak point and you can't really check them

Probably a dry or worn thrust (throw out) bearing. Keep an ear on it. Replaced when really noisy. Gearbox oil thicker so reducing bearing or gear noise. Id be more concerned with the thrust bearing squeal but it doesn't sound too bad at the moment. Maybe you got really good hearing. No doubt all thrust bearings make some noise, we just dont hear it over other noises

Is the alternator charging when you start it? Check with multi meter. Should be 14V or so after starting. In Aus, all our cars have/had a bulb check relay that turned on all warning lights upon key on, and only turned them on once the alternator was outputting a current. Often, multiple warning lights = alternator or wiring failure in charge circuit

Loosing oil or water? Head gasket normally leaks water rather than oil

Absolutely It's about getting the voltage up a bit more than keeping the battery up. You are pushing with 14.4V rather than say 10 (which is what a battery hooked to a flat one will go down to). Also as someone else said, the VR on the running alternator helps smooth out the spikes when you clip leads on and off

Id say unless you are doing the work yourself the cost of a rebuild would be astronomical. If you can do the work yourself (other than machining) it would be maybe worth it Maybe look at secondhand engine but be aware it may have some issues too.

This When you connect to the final jumper clamp you should see a small spark and or hear the other car load up a bit. Try earth connection to engine or even negative on the skoda battery. Then after 2 min, try and crank the skoda with the Seat running and connected still

How old is the oil?