BlueWagon

Yeah alright guv....pull the other one 😀 If you don't want to change the brake fluid, don't. Not a good idea but totally up to you

None if you follow the procedure. Pretty sure you just keep the res full and draw the fluid off the lower parts.

They probably didn't it but never told you (or you didn't hear correctly) A bit. But you don't run with air in it. Probably fine for 10 yrs...the poor soul who inherited your car may have cursed you as the corrosion started to dominate their brake system It's not closed. Still absorbs moisture at the master cylinder... As you said, we never changed it in the past but that was to the detriment of our cars a bit. Not a heap, but Id change it at least every 5 yrs. Doubt it will actually ever boil due to moisture but the corrosion would be a thing for me

Just cruise without hard braking for a few mins after your mad stuff. The airflow over the rotors will help cool them down a bit. Heaps cheaper and probably good to let the turbo cool down a bit too

Really there should be 0 consumption. In practice many cars leak a small amount. I have never topped mine up (1.4TSI) in 2 yrs. You probably have a small leak. Id locate that if you want to stop the thing using coolant. It may be evident by some pink crusty stuff around a hose or even the coolant cap

Take it to the local auto parts place or watch repair joint. Im sure they will be able to open Yours may be glued or something but unlikely

Is it actually a vacuum rather than pressure? Also, the sloshing of the petrol will build up a bit over vapour pressure even when cold

Pretty sure most front wheel drive cars toe out..... Rear wheel drive toe in or parallel

Id say that disproves it. But did you bleed the system properly after egr removed? If not you may have subsequently cooked the head/gasket

If it slips, change it then Adjust driving to preserve clutch. Eg limit riding clutch and standstill burnouts I wouldn't worry about it unless it slips.

Can you describe how it cuts out. Eg Splutters Looses power Slowly dies off How does the restart go? Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly Sounds electrical to me

Bad choice AI is not intelligent, it just matches word patterns. Id stick to human or good old internet searches

Pretty sure it's a timing belt, so I'd be finding a new more competent garage. Id go to these guys. I understand that the interval is more like Inspection at 240,000km Inspection every 30K thereafter Replace at 290K or 15 yrs of you want (185k miles) I did mineat 300,000km. Seemed fine before that (I inspect it a few times, no cracks or frays) but the idlers are probably the weak point and you can't really check them

Probably a dry or worn thrust (throw out) bearing. Keep an ear on it. Replaced when really noisy. Gearbox oil thicker so reducing bearing or gear noise. Id be more concerned with the thrust bearing squeal but it doesn't sound too bad at the moment. Maybe you got really good hearing. No doubt all thrust bearings make some noise, we just dont hear it over other noises

Is the alternator charging when you start it? Check with multi meter. Should be 14V or so after starting. In Aus, all our cars have/had a bulb check relay that turned on all warning lights upon key on, and only turned them on once the alternator was outputting a current. Often, multiple warning lights = alternator or wiring failure in charge circuit

Loosing oil or water? Head gasket normally leaks water rather than oil

Absolutely It's about getting the voltage up a bit more than keeping the battery up. You are pushing with 14.4V rather than say 10 (which is what a battery hooked to a flat one will go down to). Also as someone else said, the VR on the running alternator helps smooth out the spikes when you clip leads on and off

Id say unless you are doing the work yourself the cost of a rebuild would be astronomical. If you can do the work yourself (other than machining) it would be maybe worth it Maybe look at secondhand engine but be aware it may have some issues too.

This When you connect to the final jumper clamp you should see a small spark and or hear the other car load up a bit. Try earth connection to engine or even negative on the skoda battery. Then after 2 min, try and crank the skoda with the Seat running and connected still

How old is the oil?

Mine is peeling. Doesn't bother the radar in the slightest. Radar reflects off the metal of the car in front. Maybe interesting if you approached a car made completely of polycarbonate.....

If that's the case, sell it based on the fact it no longer suits your needs. I wouldn't sell a car I had to spend 1K on. But I would sell one that was too big or too small. Buying another one will cost you more than the 1K, but at least it will suit size wise. It will probably cost a least that much to change to a similarly reliable car that will still need maintenance. Cars cost money.

Yeah, could be just starting to be noisy. If it gets worse Id look more closely Id definitely check gear box oil. Maybe replace if its old oil

Id say this 100% Get mechanic to retime correctly. I think these engines have floating pulleys so lining up the marks is only half the job. Not as simple as older belts. Have to lock crank and cam and tension with pulleys floating then fix pulleys.

This is a bit unclear. Can you explain a bit more Do you mean that the clutch seems to not disengage properly? Id agree. Have you checked fluid level and for leaks? If there is a leak, the fluid will be lower and or you will see the leak or dripping fluid. Next time it is difficult to change gears, try pumping the clutch a few times quickly. If that helps it sounds like master/slave cylinder issue