BlueWagon

Mine is peeling. Doesn't bother the radar in the slightest. Radar reflects off the metal of the car in front. Maybe interesting if you approached a car made completely of polycarbonate.....

If that's the case, sell it based on the fact it no longer suits your needs. I wouldn't sell a car I had to spend 1K on. But I would sell one that was too big or too small. Buying another one will cost you more than the 1K, but at least it will suit size wise. It will probably cost a least that much to change to a similarly reliable car that will still need maintenance. Cars cost money.

Yeah, could be just starting to be noisy. If it gets worse Id look more closely Id definitely check gear box oil. Maybe replace if its old oil

Id say this 100% Get mechanic to retime correctly. I think these engines have floating pulleys so lining up the marks is only half the job. Not as simple as older belts. Have to lock crank and cam and tension with pulleys floating then fix pulleys.

This is a bit unclear. Can you explain a bit more Do you mean that the clutch seems to not disengage properly? Id agree. Have you checked fluid level and for leaks? If there is a leak, the fluid will be lower and or you will see the leak or dripping fluid. Next time it is difficult to change gears, try pumping the clutch a few times quickly. If that helps it sounds like master/slave cylinder issue

Id jack up the front wheels and see if it is there when clutch released when in gear. Sounds like just a gear box rattle. If not present when driving probably not too serious

Bit hard to see but maybe the second picture shows a slightly raised section of the crank. The seal is only just on that. On that basis Id tap it in a bit more. However, you really need to check the shaft for a worn groove, as that won't be helping and can well be the main cause

Do you mean it was very stiff since you picked it up, or has become increasingly stiff? If the latter, suggests a binding or other problem. You need to be clear on that. Quite possibly true. clutch clamping force is often increased on preformance clutches, at the expense of the pressure required to press the pedal. This is a downside of putting non genuine or different parts in. Bit of a shame he didn't say this before the install though. Maybe, maybe it's binding on the shaft or fork, but again, is it getting worse or was it always this stiff since collecting it. Even a new LUK clutch would feel stiffer, a spring pressure would reduce as the clutch wears and he spring degrades. A worn out clutch is probably the easiest of all to press

Is it in the steering (front wheels) or just overall (suggested rear wheels or slightly bent axels). Maybe wheel slightly out of round, poor Balance or bent Axel, or outer cvs

This suggests there is some coolant flow (to make pipe hot in the first place) and that the matrix is removing all the heat. What happens if you run hot without any fan or at least low fan. Maybe coolant flow isn't enough for the matrix suggesting busted water pump or valve partially closed somewhere Is the engine hot enough? Is the matrix making hot or even warm air? Maybe a blend door isn't closing and not directing hot air from the matrix into the cabin

Probably be fine for a while yet. New recommendation is 180K miles or 15 yrs for the petrol engines i recall

Clutches rarely fail without some warning beforehand. Often once they show the first sign of slipping you might get another 10K out of it if you are careful

No, just do it when it fails. It will probably last a while longer yet I would do this

Id be wary of ebay sellers personally. Plenty of genuine parts for sale with very non genuine prices and quality to match

Cruise slightly slower and you'll use quite a bit less juice

Id find what is making it rattle. Is it just the front bearing or pulley, or even the idler? If its internal, I'd replace before it sends swarf into the AC pipes.

I changed mine at 309,000km. I think at 107,000 you have many years to go before you have to worry

Sounds like it is building hp before launching

Castrol Edge. I buy it when on special VW 502 00 I change it every 7,500km So half the recommended 15K. Engine as 310,000km on it

Id say any 5W30 which meets VW 502 spec is fine. I think the 504 spec is more for extended service intervals, and a 2013 model would do well with more regular changes anyway I use 502 spec in a 1.4tsi

That sounds like a very smart idea. Make sure it's the return line so the turbo is still oiled, and you get to see the flow through the turbo

How did they bleed the system then??? How much is the coolant going down? Say 1L per 1000km or what? A small amount not a big deal l, but.... If you have an air pocket and it was in the wrong spot, you could crack the head or damage the head gasket. If its been a few weeks and it's lost alot of coolant Id be looking at the head gasket and head. Needs a pressure test and Co2 test of the coolant by a guy other than the one who didn't bleed it. He's not likely to admit his lack of expertise lead to the cracked head. You may be lucky and just have a leaking egr or air in there still, but definitely bleed it before you drive any more And get a mechanic who can do the job rightly

Definately need a drain hole, maybe not as big as it is on yours. Does yours? Well, if it's meant to be there, and it isn't, then you know the answer hey. It's called a gaurd liner. Maybe just order one or get one from a wrecker/breakers yard. Seems like the obvious solution to me. The holes in the sill probably won't put sand a leaves on the top of the sill panel. I think 100% the leaves and sand are a result of the missing gaurd liner.

Can you please give us more info. Saying it stalls after starting is pretty open ended. maybe describe EXACTLY what happens so we can have half a chance at figuring out the go Does it do it when in P What about in N What about R Is it only when you put it in Drive? Is your foot on the brake? What happens if you don't have your foot on the brake (and handbrake released of course)?

Id lean on whoever is providing the warranty. Just make sure you aren't stalling it yourself. Eg, having the handbrake on and trying to drive off. Maybe the brake switch is dicky and it engages the clutch because it thinks the brake is released.