BlueWagon

Really there should be 0 consumption. In practice many cars leak a small amount. I have never topped mine up (1.4TSI) in 2 yrs. You probably have a small leak. Id locate that if you want to stop the thing using coolant. It may be evident by some pink crusty stuff around a hose or even the coolant cap

Take it to the local auto parts place or watch repair joint. Im sure they will be able to open Yours may be glued or something but unlikely

Is it actually a vacuum rather than pressure? Also, the sloshing of the petrol will build up a bit over vapour pressure even when cold

Pretty sure most front wheel drive cars toe out..... Rear wheel drive toe in or parallel

Id say that disproves it. But did you bleed the system properly after egr removed? If not you may have subsequently cooked the head/gasket

If it slips, change it then Adjust driving to preserve clutch. Eg limit riding clutch and standstill burnouts I wouldn't worry about it unless it slips.

Can you describe how it cuts out. Eg Splutters Looses power Slowly dies off How does the restart go? Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly Sounds electrical to me

Bad choice AI is not intelligent, it just matches word patterns. Id stick to human or good old internet searches

Pretty sure it's a timing belt, so I'd be finding a new more competent garage. Id go to these guys. I understand that the interval is more like Inspection at 240,000km Inspection every 30K thereafter Replace at 290K or 15 yrs of you want (185k miles) I did mineat 300,000km. Seemed fine before that (I inspect it a few times, no cracks or frays) but the idlers are probably the weak point and you can't really check them

Probably a dry or worn thrust (throw out) bearing. Keep an ear on it. Replaced when really noisy. Gearbox oil thicker so reducing bearing or gear noise. Id be more concerned with the thrust bearing squeal but it doesn't sound too bad at the moment. Maybe you got really good hearing. No doubt all thrust bearings make some noise, we just dont hear it over other noises

Is the alternator charging when you start it? Check with multi meter. Should be 14V or so after starting. In Aus, all our cars have/had a bulb check relay that turned on all warning lights upon key on, and only turned them on once the alternator was outputting a current. Often, multiple warning lights = alternator or wiring failure in charge circuit

Loosing oil or water? Head gasket normally leaks water rather than oil

Absolutely It's about getting the voltage up a bit more than keeping the battery up. You are pushing with 14.4V rather than say 10 (which is what a battery hooked to a flat one will go down to). Also as someone else said, the VR on the running alternator helps smooth out the spikes when you clip leads on and off

Id say unless you are doing the work yourself the cost of a rebuild would be astronomical. If you can do the work yourself (other than machining) it would be maybe worth it Maybe look at secondhand engine but be aware it may have some issues too.

This When you connect to the final jumper clamp you should see a small spark and or hear the other car load up a bit. Try earth connection to engine or even negative on the skoda battery. Then after 2 min, try and crank the skoda with the Seat running and connected still

How old is the oil?

Mine is peeling. Doesn't bother the radar in the slightest. Radar reflects off the metal of the car in front. Maybe interesting if you approached a car made completely of polycarbonate.....

If that's the case, sell it based on the fact it no longer suits your needs. I wouldn't sell a car I had to spend 1K on. But I would sell one that was too big or too small. Buying another one will cost you more than the 1K, but at least it will suit size wise. It will probably cost a least that much to change to a similarly reliable car that will still need maintenance. Cars cost money.

Yeah, could be just starting to be noisy. If it gets worse Id look more closely Id definitely check gear box oil. Maybe replace if its old oil

Id say this 100% Get mechanic to retime correctly. I think these engines have floating pulleys so lining up the marks is only half the job. Not as simple as older belts. Have to lock crank and cam and tension with pulleys floating then fix pulleys.

This is a bit unclear. Can you explain a bit more Do you mean that the clutch seems to not disengage properly? Id agree. Have you checked fluid level and for leaks? If there is a leak, the fluid will be lower and or you will see the leak or dripping fluid. Next time it is difficult to change gears, try pumping the clutch a few times quickly. If that helps it sounds like master/slave cylinder issue

Id jack up the front wheels and see if it is there when clutch released when in gear. Sounds like just a gear box rattle. If not present when driving probably not too serious

Bit hard to see but maybe the second picture shows a slightly raised section of the crank. The seal is only just on that. On that basis Id tap it in a bit more. However, you really need to check the shaft for a worn groove, as that won't be helping and can well be the main cause

Do you mean it was very stiff since you picked it up, or has become increasingly stiff? If the latter, suggests a binding or other problem. You need to be clear on that. Quite possibly true. clutch clamping force is often increased on preformance clutches, at the expense of the pressure required to press the pedal. This is a downside of putting non genuine or different parts in. Bit of a shame he didn't say this before the install though. Maybe, maybe it's binding on the shaft or fork, but again, is it getting worse or was it always this stiff since collecting it. Even a new LUK clutch would feel stiffer, a spring pressure would reduce as the clutch wears and he spring degrades. A worn out clutch is probably the easiest of all to press

Is it in the steering (front wheels) or just overall (suggested rear wheels or slightly bent axels). Maybe wheel slightly out of round, poor Balance or bent Axel, or outer cvs