Jack25

here you can see a tsi vrs https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517033-what-does-your-engine-look-like/ you can tell is a TSI by the ignition coil, and it dosen't have the diesel filter on the left lower corner

I suspect from that fuel filter that is a diesel model look at this https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0127400f-fuel-filter-holder-tdi-skoda-25673.html and also this is the engine bay from my 2016 octavia (it's a scout but with the 2.0L tdi CUNA 184 bhp)

Look for a broken wire in the tailgate wire groomet, according to the wiring scheme, the license light should have 2 different wire for the power, one for each light. (i've looked at the one of the fabia, later i will look on elsawin for the roomster), but i belive is something similar,

you're welcome, i have the same engine 1.2 TSI (at the end of the day the front end frame and components of the roomster is the same as the same period fabia). if you need any other help feel free to ask.

Even the heater? try to look if you have power at this fuse, they are related to the heater; just to understand if there is any power.

It could be a high-pressure fuel pump hose that is broken or loose, or the high-pressure fuel pump leaking. Look for the fuel pipe in the engine bay. (I have a 2013 Fabia, but it is LHD); you will see 2 plastic pipes that go to the high-pressure fuel pump. In my case, they're located in front of the air inlet for the A/C. If it is a HPFP, look at the oil and check if it smells like fuel. If it does, the O-ring that seals it is leaking into the oil pan, diluting the oil, and it can destroy the engine due to a bad lubrication from the oil. Or maybe a leaky injector; they have O-rings too, and they're placed basically under the intake manifold, but without seeing the car, a correct diagnosis is difficult to do.

The steering wheel connector is a one-piece 41-pin plug, so it would be a bigger problem involving the airbag light, no high beam (flash or fixed), etc. I'm not saying that isn't possible, but instead of being unplugged, it could be some broken wires maybe. (It looks like the picture, it's gray, and it connects behind the stalks)

Ah okok got it

Be careful in switching bmc around because it can loose the pairing between bcm and the remote (append to me) the pairing is easy but software like vcds is needed. The bcm does have the same part number?

ok, could be a broken wire while refitting the harness?, or a ground in the b pillar, in order to se that you need to remove te b-pillar trim cover in the car, is very easy just some metal clip tht have to be pulled, i'm currentlly looking at the wiring diagram, the common things are that: they all work via lin-bus and are routed to the bcm, the power come from the fusebox, and that they comunicate via the clockspring; so no power issue from the fusebox easy check whit a multimeter, lin-bus issiue a good look at the door wiring loom and for the clockspring a scan via a software like vcds. also all the plug inside the door are connected propperly? the door handle is quite hard to reach maybe some wire got damaged. To fully test the door wiring harness use the mutineer in continuity test between all the pin in the various plug

Try to disconnect the wiring in the replaced door and see if something get back to life, in that case can be a lib-bus shorted wire, the wiring in the door was the one in the new door or did you reuse the original wiring? Also try to scan-it with a software like vcds to see which error there is

Thank you, I already have vcds, and the cluster is from a 1.2 tsi cbzb rapid, I was looking for Vag Tacho K+Can and Vag Dash Can. The complete immo delete scares me a little bit, just because i would like the car to be original from a theft safety side, I fear a bit that it could be hot-wired easily.

If I can give some advice: go polyurethane. It completely changes the car’s feedback for the better—more stiffness and better cornering capabilities. You might also consider adding a rear sway bar. My Fabia combi (not a vrs just a 1.2 tsi stg.1 revo) is fully on 90 Shore polyurethane bushings from Strongflex (yellow bushings), Koni Sport (yellow), and various Ultra Racing braces, along with Whiteline front and rear sway bars. The car feels glued to the ground, (especially in summer with the Yokohama AD08RS).

Hi everyone, like in the title I would like to try to swap the green dot in my 2013 Fabia combi 1.2 tsi cbza LHD, I’ve done a lot of retrofit but I’m missing a proper cluster, I’ve found one from the rapid that does have some extra function and that it doesn’t need Steereng wheel button to be used, just the switch on the stalk (like the green dot). The rapid cluster is 5JA920840D, i have vcds but looking around i need also Vag Dash Editor in order to read the green dot immo pin and to transfer it to the rapid cluster and same with the eeprom (yesterday I’ve tried to plug in the cluster that I got from a RHD rapid it wash dirt cheap, and beside the immobiliser message some function were working like: coolant temp fuel gauge and which door was open even the hood). My question is: someone have done a swap like this? I’ve seen swap to mfd adding steering wheel control but I just want something a bit easier. (I’ve bought this cluster just to mess around, if the retrofit is possible I will buy a kph one. Also, I will check in ElsaWin to see if there is any information about reading the EEPROM or the immobilizer pin.). Thanks to everyone

When I replaced the gasket between the oil filter housing and the engine on my Fabia 1.2 TSI CBZA (same as CBZB), both the oil and the coolant had to be drained. To remove any air pockets, you should let the engine idle with the coolant reservoir cap open, while keeping the heater on full blast. This worked for me, and I haven’t had any issues even after two years of really hard use.

If is a fuse problem it should be fuse F19 under the bonnet if you have viusually checked it could be the case to test it with a multimeter or just replace it and try to se if somwthing wakes up

Look also for the spark plugs leads because there was 2 versions of leads one without heating insulation like a black plastic pipe, and with the heat generated by the engine they were failing early that they should, vw upgraded the leads with the insulation and they last way longer

You're right is a dq200 i've mistaken the service intervals with the dq250, still once in a life oil change is not bad is 1,9L of oil nothing too expensive

keep in mind that the speakers are held in place by rivets, you need to drill them out and after you can remove the speaker. Keep also in mind to by the speaker without an integrated woofer because is located in the A pillar, however i've used Hertz dsk 165.3 but you need adaptor to fit the speaker and also to trim some plastic in the back of the door card, and to sound nicely you need a subwoofer. look for some pioneer or similar products.

many many years ago i swap the swing unit for an android one, look on aliexpress or ebay there is a lot of it for sale

P.S. if you check the spark plugs, keep in mind that they're long-life plugs good for about 35k miles, also is not expensive look to replace the coil pack; go for quality parts like NGK is a 5 minute job. Mine, after 11 years of life was misfiring randomly under load (acceleration) (with new spark plugs) without popping lights on the dash.

Yes the 1.2 TSI 86 bhp or the 105 bhp (same engine just different tune) come also with manual (on the fabia is a very funny engine even more if you tune it to 130bhp). Look also for fuel service history and very importantly, the dsg gearbox needs to be serviced every 40k miles. If you need anything, feel free to ask, i know this engine very well.

you can disconnect the siren, or better uncoding the alarm via vcds (also the low loudness is due probably to an old siren battery), however the first thing I would suggest to try is to switch off the volumetric system using the switch on thr b pillar, and see if it keep doing it.

Just to shoot some idea, fuel filter and injectors have been serviced? pertrol quality?

ok, you can try to disconnect the battery for like 10-15 minute connect it again and try (i don't it will solve but worth a try) more effective look behind the obd port for broken or sliced wire