Jack25

Look at the video it's easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2CnIZrKuvc (it's for a polo but is the exact same on a fabia hatch or combi)

Vertically under the fuel cap go under the car the fuel filter is here you have to disconnect 3 fuel line keep in mind that some fuel will come out (not the whole tank just the one left in the fuel lane and the one in the filter) be sure to connect the line back where they were, 2 line that arrive from the front of the car (if I remember correctly one blue an one black) and one from the back of the car to the front (black)

happend the same to me (2013 fabia 1.2 tsi combi) it was the coil pack https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/032905106f-ignition-module-1-2tsi-1-4-16v-1-6-1-8-20v-2-0mpi-ngk-52273.html mine went ko after 11 years and 151k km

Do you have an aftermarket radio? like an android unit? If yes, it could be that the head unit is connected via can and taking priority of the can system and not allowing the obd reader to connect to the can line. This happened to me on a 2013 fabia while i was tuning the ecu and I wasn't able to connect via obd, disconnected the head unit and everything was working.

Generally when going for a larger rim the problem is also the clearance between tyre/rim and struts, try to look at the gap you currently have to see how much space you have look at this website It should be helpful https://www.willtheyfit.com/ This is what they say: Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 4.4mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 8.4mm more than before.

Maybe it was on for a long period someone instead of repair it decide to remove it and after it got repaired, and now there is some fault and the warning got back on, it could be a faulty lambda sensor you won’t notice that but in this case the air fuel ratio is lean and the engine ecu doesn’t like it and turn on the cel. My best advice is to scan it with an obd reader or something like vcds to have a deeper diagnosis.

So do you see the check engine light? Like the one you have attached in the post? Because that is the position of the check engine light, it could be like that because maybe the seller have tried to broke the led behind the warning, to see the light in that way you just need to remove the cluster open the transparent plastic is held in place by two clips and push a screw driver in it and after it got taped or painted and now that is faded you se that strange light. I'm strongly sure that is a CEL. That is the only position for that warning in all mk1 fabia

I probably know what it its, its a check engine light that have been ripped off. Look at the picture at the left of the hole for the gauge and upper of the odometer. You can confirm that by using a obd scanner. Also, did you recently buy the Fabia? or in general are you the first owner?

the abs sensor if faulty would trigger an abs light, my suggestion is to scan the fault with an obd reader or better with a vcds

The connector on the reservoir is the one that detects if the brake fluid is low, so if you disconnect it, it can't determine if there is any fluid and trigger the warning on the dash, and the brake warning light is the same for when the handbrake is engaged, so it seems normal to turn off the warning when the handbrake is not engaged.

No problem, For the fault lights, does the car have a regular idle? i have some suggestions: a faulty coil worn sparkplug faulty coil connector a rough idle could be a dirty throttle body did you have done some maintenance lately? or like a turbocharger replacement? (in another yeti post a 1.2 tsi from 2013 had a turbo replacement without calibration and it was over boosting). For the washer fluid: the reservoir can be seen removing the front right wheel and inner fender liner. There you can see the pump and the beginning of the pipes. There is some option here The reservoir pump is clogged but working, the poit where it sucks up the fluid id very small a loose pipe could be under the windshield wiper. There is a t-junction for the two nozzles. the rear wiper tube is broken inside the plastic trim on the floor inside the car. It runs alongside the bottom part of the door. If the fluid is leaking there, that's a big problem because it is full of wires that area, you can try to see if the carpet is wet. Generally, the pipe is in the left side of the car. To be sure try both side or inspect the tailgate for fluid tacks. also could be related to something loose in the headlight washer system

Yes, and also just a washer pipe disconnected or a cut and the system loose pressure and no fluid will be sprayed.

I agree i'm using royal purple VW502.00 5w40 and it is really quiet.

From the audio I can hear that is getting a little bit extended, not a big problem for now, it depends on the use of the car. If you are always sending it, I believe is better to start to thinking of replacing it it's quite easy to do after all is only one chain for the crankshaft to the camshaft and one for the oil pump but if local to you, you know someone that have vcds there is a parameter in the engine module to verify the chain elongation, the range is from 0 to 5% (i'm actually a bit lower of 2,5% with a 7 years old chain and 100k km later), (keep in mind that at 5% you will hear a horrendous rattling noise and at 5 is red code to replace it, and it's very risky to drive it. If I can give my personal advice, like I do every time i use the car or i service it, do oil changes every 5-6k miles and let the car warm up, like don't start it and drive off immediately, let the oil circulate for about 20–30 seconds, and after an intense use, let it cool down like driving it normally for the last 2-3 miles or park the car and let it run for a copule of minute with the heater on full blast in defrost position.

Hi Maggieh, I’m really happy that everything worked out fine.

If you want to save your self the hustle of taking apart 10+year of plastic clip the oem code for the whole air outlet is 1Z08192039B9 founded here https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1z08192039b9-rear-heating-outlet-genuine-part-14500.html

Hi, in my case (different car on a Fabia 5j combi). I've replaced the rear-wheel bearing due to a loud worn bearing noise, a test you can do that worked in my situation is trying to for example to switch lanes (in a bit aggressive way) and the noise should disappear or at least be less loud. However, I hope it is not like that for you, but I'm after the gearbox bearing noise and diff humming, but yeah, till the gearbox doesn't explode, I will use the car and send it on a mountain roads.

Ok thank you, I'm happy to (I hope) help.

From personal experience on a 2016 Octavia Scout 5E 2.0 tdi 184bhp (120k km) (the only 2 things the Škoda dealer see the car in question because i don't like people working on my cars it's just my problem because i like things done with a lot of accuracy) is for DSG and Haldex fluid. The Haldex fluid just because this time i wasn't able to do it by myself because I didn't have free time. But yeah, different countries, different dealerships, I can say for the DSG when they replace the fluid, it is really noticeable the difference (to know if the garage did a good job), but rear diff oil is for life longevity if you don't trust much the garage atleast in case of complain from the dealership when you will return the car you can prove you have done all the scheduleted services and is not your problem if for example they didn't replace the diff fluid, or if they have done a poor quality job. But that's just a personal way to think.

I'm quite in difficulty here; normally I would say change it absolutely, but it's a rental, in 12 months it will not be yours anymore, and you have done only 5k miles in two years. The matter here is only for warranty purposes in case something fails in the AWD system and Skoda can deny the warranty (if there is one) because you neglected the maintenance schedule. Mostly depending on how much they quoted you for a fluid change, a new rear diff could be really expensive.

Without seeing the car, I can suggest an over boost based on what said previously could be a stuck actuator (a well-known fault on 1.2 tsi based on the year; I guess a cbza or cbzb complete same engine, just a different tune). Be careful to not push it hard as a repeated overboost can cause damage. I'm also thinking (probably the most realistic scenario) of a non-calibrated turbo actuator because they're electronic and need to be calibrated, especially when you replace the turbo compressor. I hope it can help; also once you get the car back from the garage, can you report what they have done? (personal curiosity) Thank you.

Hi, I believe without a VCDS scan is quite difficult to know, just guessing it could be an overboost problem? Accordig that it happens only when you're pushing hard, does the actuator have the same OEM code as the previous one fitted? Do you feel anything strange when the epc light turns on? Any vibration, noise or something like that?

I’m sorry before I was quite in a rush and I’ve just enabled all the parameter I’ve found searching “timing” and also the engine wasn’t running. I will try again tomorrow evening (I have a 1.2 tsi (originally) 86 bhp Fabia production year around 2011-2012 (I suspect by the label in the panels) but registered in 2013 I will also check the SIMOS version and let you know. For the chain stretch adaptation I believe is automatic when you replace the timing chain because the sensor will report to the ecu a different degree reading on the stretch value.

My bad you need to go in engine-advanced measure search for timing deviation after chain replacement (on SIMOS ECU) I have a 2.25° after 98k km with oil change every 9-10k km

Hi, in this video you can see how to mesure it via vcds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e9imH68urw the parameter are: 0° to -2° new - still good green zone -2° to -4° to keep monitored yellow zone -5° or more red zone the chain needs to be replaced even if there isn't any rattling noise.