Jack25

No problem, For the fault lights, does the car have a regular idle? i have some suggestions: a faulty coil worn sparkplug faulty coil connector a rough idle could be a dirty throttle body did you have done some maintenance lately? or like a turbocharger replacement? (in another yeti post a 1.2 tsi from 2013 had a turbo replacement without calibration and it was over boosting). For the washer fluid: the reservoir can be seen removing the front right wheel and inner fender liner. There you can see the pump and the beginning of the pipes. There is some option here The reservoir pump is clogged but working, the poit where it sucks up the fluid id very small a loose pipe could be under the windshield wiper. There is a t-junction for the two nozzles. the rear wiper tube is broken inside the plastic trim on the floor inside the car. It runs alongside the bottom part of the door. If the fluid is leaking there, that's a big problem because it is full of wires that area, you can try to see if the carpet is wet. Generally, the pipe is in the left side of the car. To be sure try both side or inspect the tailgate for fluid tacks. also could be related to something loose in the headlight washer system

Yes, and also just a washer pipe disconnected or a cut and the system loose pressure and no fluid will be sprayed.

I agree i'm using royal purple VW502.00 5w40 and it is really quiet.

From the audio I can hear that is getting a little bit extended, not a big problem for now, it depends on the use of the car. If you are always sending it, I believe is better to start to thinking of replacing it it's quite easy to do after all is only one chain for the crankshaft to the camshaft and one for the oil pump but if local to you, you know someone that have vcds there is a parameter in the engine module to verify the chain elongation, the range is from 0 to 5% (i'm actually a bit lower of 2,5% with a 7 years old chain and 100k km later), (keep in mind that at 5% you will hear a horrendous rattling noise and at 5 is red code to replace it, and it's very risky to drive it. If I can give my personal advice, like I do every time i use the car or i service it, do oil changes every 5-6k miles and let the car warm up, like don't start it and drive off immediately, let the oil circulate for about 20–30 seconds, and after an intense use, let it cool down like driving it normally for the last 2-3 miles or park the car and let it run for a copule of minute with the heater on full blast in defrost position.

Hi Maggieh, I’m really happy that everything worked out fine.

If you want to save your self the hustle of taking apart 10+year of plastic clip the oem code for the whole air outlet is 1Z08192039B9 founded here https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1z08192039b9-rear-heating-outlet-genuine-part-14500.html

Hi, in my case (different car on a Fabia 5j combi). I've replaced the rear-wheel bearing due to a loud worn bearing noise, a test you can do that worked in my situation is trying to for example to switch lanes (in a bit aggressive way) and the noise should disappear or at least be less loud. However, I hope it is not like that for you, but I'm after the gearbox bearing noise and diff humming, but yeah, till the gearbox doesn't explode, I will use the car and send it on a mountain roads.

Ok thank you, I'm happy to (I hope) help.

From personal experience on a 2016 Octavia Scout 5E 2.0 tdi 184bhp (120k km) (the only 2 things the Škoda dealer see the car in question because i don't like people working on my cars it's just my problem because i like things done with a lot of accuracy) is for DSG and Haldex fluid. The Haldex fluid just because this time i wasn't able to do it by myself because I didn't have free time. But yeah, different countries, different dealerships, I can say for the DSG when they replace the fluid, it is really noticeable the difference (to know if the garage did a good job), but rear diff oil is for life longevity if you don't trust much the garage atleast in case of complain from the dealership when you will return the car you can prove you have done all the scheduleted services and is not your problem if for example they didn't replace the diff fluid, or if they have done a poor quality job. But that's just a personal way to think.

I'm quite in difficulty here; normally I would say change it absolutely, but it's a rental, in 12 months it will not be yours anymore, and you have done only 5k miles in two years. The matter here is only for warranty purposes in case something fails in the AWD system and Skoda can deny the warranty (if there is one) because you neglected the maintenance schedule. Mostly depending on how much they quoted you for a fluid change, a new rear diff could be really expensive.

Without seeing the car, I can suggest an over boost based on what said previously could be a stuck actuator (a well-known fault on 1.2 tsi based on the year; I guess a cbza or cbzb complete same engine, just a different tune). Be careful to not push it hard as a repeated overboost can cause damage. I'm also thinking (probably the most realistic scenario) of a non-calibrated turbo actuator because they're electronic and need to be calibrated, especially when you replace the turbo compressor. I hope it can help; also once you get the car back from the garage, can you report what they have done? (personal curiosity) Thank you.

Hi, I believe without a VCDS scan is quite difficult to know, just guessing it could be an overboost problem? Accordig that it happens only when you're pushing hard, does the actuator have the same OEM code as the previous one fitted? Do you feel anything strange when the epc light turns on? Any vibration, noise or something like that?

I’m sorry before I was quite in a rush and I’ve just enabled all the parameter I’ve found searching “timing” and also the engine wasn’t running. I will try again tomorrow evening (I have a 1.2 tsi (originally) 86 bhp Fabia production year around 2011-2012 (I suspect by the label in the panels) but registered in 2013 I will also check the SIMOS version and let you know. For the chain stretch adaptation I believe is automatic when you replace the timing chain because the sensor will report to the ecu a different degree reading on the stretch value.

My bad you need to go in engine-advanced measure search for timing deviation after chain replacement (on SIMOS ECU) I have a 2.25° after 98k km with oil change every 9-10k km

Hi, in this video you can see how to mesure it via vcds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e9imH68urw the parameter are: 0° to -2° new - still good green zone -2° to -4° to keep monitored yellow zone -5° or more red zone the chain needs to be replaced even if there isn't any rattling noise.

Wow, if the relay is good at this point, the next thing I can think is using vcds with that AC button flashing maybe disconnecting the battery for one hour or so to try to 'hard rest it'?

Ok i've found also this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506229-another-air-con-threadsorry/ For the flashing button i've read online for different cars but with the same outcome faulty ac compressor (not your case) or faulty relay worth to test it Edit: stupid question the AC compressor connector is plugged-in correctly?

Hi, out of curiosity, have you tried like in this forum? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514487-ac-compressor-automatic-first-run-in-adapt/ Citing from the link: Start the car. Press and hold the AC and rear defrost button for a few seconds till they all light up. Leave it like this for 2 minutes then restart the car. fault should now clear. i know the thread is from a superb mk3 but i believe it is worth a try? And also give a try to the reset of the flap? Another question when you re-gassed the ac system did you ask for a leak tracer fluid?

Thank you Adrian, for curiosity did the throttle body ever get cleaned and then recalibrate via vag software? Maybe it is worth a shot; It is a very easy job. Maybe there is deposit or dirt and the ecu can't close it properly, causing the ecu to throw codes? (it could almost justify the incorrect fuelling warning) or a faulty lambda sensor (on a friend of mine before letting me look at his fiat punto his mechanic replaced all the LPG system and the check engine was still on I've replaced just the lambda sensor and the error went away, 5 months and a lot of kms later and still good); also for your mechanic friend I attempt to suggest that is worth testing the relay related to the ecu / engine just for safety. Giacomo

Another way is to use skodaparts.com website and, via VIN, you have all the compatible parts for your car (and also, if you have questions, they answer them really fast). In really no time you will have the right part number. Basically, it is a free vin decodifier, and you can choose where to buy your parts once you have the pr number.

Hi, out of curiosity, can I ask you which engine you have? Also, is it possible that some fluid has found a way into the ecu and corroded it? Just a shooting idea (if the ecu has to get changed) also as a scan app for daily driving on my Fabia I use 'car scanner' on my android radio (works fine on iOS too) to monitor things like coolant temp, speed via GPS, engine load, and other important (to me) parameters, but for deep scanning I use VCDS (official vag software on PC). If you find someone local to you with the software, you can easily address the problem. VCDS does read more faults than a common OBD reader and errors that don't have a warning light, like low pressure in the AC system and a lot more. Giacomo

You're welcome, happy to help. You can try to ask that company and see what they say, and if they give you any part number or idea of what you need, you can look for them used on eBay or a local scrapyard. For the cluster function on the VCDS "home page" there is the cluster menu called 17 - Instrument. In my Fabia (I've done a lot of upgrades and retrofits like rear electric windows), for example, I've managed to modify the service interval from 15k km to 10k km (I prefer to do the service earlier to preserve the timing chain and general engine life) and also to enable the washer fluid warning light (one wire to the cluster and the sensor in the washer bottle), and enabling the liter of fuel that is needed to fill up or needle sweep. That's just for the cluster. I don't have the Maxidot, so the functions are a bit limited. You can also look for other modules, especially for the comfort module / central electrics, to enable other functions like opening the window by pressing the unlock button on the keyfob and things like that, also in the abs module I'm not sure if you have a newer gen of abs unit, but you can try to look for tpms (it uses the abs sensor to determine the tire rotation to detect if all the wheel are rotating the same way if not there is an air leak and the warning light turn on but the only way to reset it is via vcds or retroffitting the switch) and also automatic hill hold if you are stopped up hill or down hill while having clutch and brake pressed the car stay stand still for about 3 to 4 second allowing you to move without the handbrake method (I've learned that way, but some electronic helping is not always bad). For the temperature depends on whether there is a thermometer (installed probably yes) and for fuel consumption, I believe it is possible.

Thank you, (I've run the VIN via skodaparts to check the components). Judging just by the number of pins between your steering unit 1K0 953 549 DA and the other available (medium and high versions), there are a lot of pin differences. I've found this website that sells the CC retrofit kit where you can ask for info about: https://wibutec-shop.com/Retrofit-kit-GRA-cruise-control-system-Skoda-Octavia-1Z-from-02-2004-to-05-2010 If you enter your VIN code, the price will go up to €364 because you don't have a multi-function display, which is related to the steering module (cruise control MFSW, etc.), so I believe the retrofit kit will include the module, stalk and wiring. Also, considering the fact that you have access to VCDS, see if you can enable it just out of curiosity, but I am really sure that it will not work.

Hi, to be completely sure, I advise you to do a complete autoscan via VCDS to determine which module and unit you have and determine what parts you will need (for example, there are two types of stalks, one composed of two singular stalks, and in this case, the needed one is just the left, and the other case is just a single assembly) just to understand how to proceed. Because looking online, it seems for the mid and high trim, the stalk replacement and coding are all that are needed, but I believe in your case, also some wiring will be needed. Online, and on Briskoda, there are a lot of guides. For example, here there is some useful info: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/307988-retrofitting-cruise-control/?fromsearch=1

Append to me. Years ago, in a previous car, I was finding water in the spare wheel area (under the boot floor). I've fixed it by removing the boot seal, cleaning it with a brush and universal degreaser, with a pair of pliers, "closing" the rubber part that goes on the metal lip and filling it with silicone. I've never ever had an issue come back (and yes, you're able to remove the seal after I've done it).