aubrey

What new sensors are you buying ? I ask because I had very similar problems with my Roomster. I replaced sensors with ones I got from eBay and had continuing problems. I finally replaced with VW Parts, they were not cheap and I seem to remember about £80 each, but once all 4 were replaced with VW Parts I had no more problems. Also ensure you replace the sealing ring that goes with each sensor too.

There are often 2 lamda sensors. I note your error is B1 S1. S1 is on the engine side of the catalyst, so often on the end of the exhaust manifold. S2 is on the exhaust out side of the catalyst. B1 is bank 1, so unless you get multiple cylinder heads like a V or W engine, it will always be Bank 1. I had to change the S2 one on my Yeti 1.2 Petrol, which was quite easy to access from underneath. The S1 on mine would of been really easy from just having the bonnet open. Note when ordering S1 and S2 are different part numbers with different cable lengths and connectors.

I put my bikes on the roof. I've never liked those hang on racks. I agree mine would be a bit harder to put on and remove, but I can do on my own. I just think the roof bars are more secure.

Had mine done at a VAG specialist in Southend, Essex for £338. I also always hit the 5 years long before the mileage limit. The water pump does not need doing too, it is on the other end of the engine with its own little belt. The garage recommended that the water pump + it's belt be done every other cambelt change to mitigate failure. I choose that specialist as they had the VAS 611007 tool to check the timing afterwards.

Probably but mine wasn't, I upgraded from the factory fitted EFB to an AGM type. For the price difference it seemed silly not to. A Varta 570901076 Battery was only £120. I get your point on having to buy VCDS, but I did that years ago and it has more than paid for itself in normal servicing and fault finding over the years. I've also helped quite a number of local people with scans and coding mods. Anyone local could pop by mine and I'd code their battery after fitting.

I'm still going to do the coding on every battery change. It is so easy to do, takes about a minute, it takes longer to swap the battery than enter a few settings. So the point of arguing about it seems pointless. It needed doing for me anyway due to the battery type swap from EFB to AGM. A different battery type must be needed info as the charging profile would be different. The procedure does seem different on different vehicles. My sons Octavia Mk3 VRS for example had totally different forms to populate, the same type of information but a different entry method. We also swapped his original EFB to AGM type battery and on that it had to be entered as Battery Type = Fleece, whereas the Yeti as seen in my earlier attached photo had AGM on a drop down list. His Octavia has Binary-AGM, however I've been told that is something completely different and AGM batteries as normally brought are type Fleece.

I heard this too and that at the very least you need to change the serial number when replacing the battery, it does not matter what to - just change it. That's why I used the date as I thought well that's a system that would change. It would be nice to have this officially confirmed though as the reasons do make sense in the battery charging regulates as the battery ages but I have no idea if really true. After all how many devices have rechargeable batteries and this tell the device the battery has been changed is not a uniform requirement.

My 2016 Yeti with Stop/Start I had to code when I swapped the battery last November. I changed the battery type from EFB to AGM too. All entered into controller 61 Battery Regulation. The serial number I just set to the date I installed it 0029112020.

Scan it with VCDS, that takes all of 5 minutes and will give you far more information.

Are you sure the rear discs need changing at 48k. I've done loads of disc and pad changes on various car models and the rear discs normally last longer than that. Fronts wear yes but not the rears. Or is it as case of while changing the front discs let's just do the lot ? I just did my son's Octavia VRS and again front discs needed changing but the rears were fine. So it was discs and pads up front but just pads on the rear. Then a full brake bleed including the clutch. Another question does anyone have good get the disc off tricks ? I've normally had to whack them a lot with a club hammer to get the disc off, I don't know if the factory does not put any copperease on before fitting but boy are some discs hard to remove. I always wire brush, clean the hub and apply copperease on replacement.

I just had my cambelt done too on my 2016 1.2 Yeti at a VW specialist garage. They said they recommend to change the water pump every 2nd cambelt change. Not an official requirement but something they recommend by experience. I particularly searched for a VW specialist that had the VAS 611007 to check/set the valve timing once the new belt was fitted. The use of that expensive timing tool was the reason I didn't do the belt myself.

I fitted an AGM battery to my Stop/Start Yeti 1.2 DSG after the original EFB battery failed at 4 years old. I got a Varta 096 AGM Battery from Tayna (570901076). I had to recode the Battery Type and I set the serial number to the install date using VCDS. I'm sure it was only about £120 with delivery. Fitting and coding must of taken me about 15 minutes. It's a simple procedure. I wasn't sure if an AGM was much better than the original EFB type but for the little bit more I thought I'd may as well go for the better battery. Edit: Battery link https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

If it snapped then you would very likely need loads more replacing than just the chain. These are interference engines the valves open lower than the piston rises. Without the chain keeping them all timed together they'd smash into each other. Could get very expensive, bent valves, damaged head, holed pistons.

I had the Bank 2 O² sensor go my 1.2tsi Yeti a month ago, that was £100 to get a Meat & Doria one. I think the NOx sensors are around £300 but change the same with a 22mm lambda sensor socket. I'd be interested in your fault code. I got 17143 Bank 1 Sensor 2. Sensor 2 being the after catalyst one. It was easy enough to access from under the car. With the new O² sensor the fault immediately cleared. So what fault code do you have ?

I used to have a Roomster and towed my full up camping trailer around the country no problem. It was the 1.9 TDI engine, so not a comparison with your 1.2 TSI. As you say it can't be any worse than a fully loaded car and you know that works. Watch the nose weight for towing, IIRC it's only 50kg on the Roomster.

Why don't you scan it 1st thing then, while the light is still up ? I thought codes stored afterwards too but maybe not.

Is this useful ? Yeti Vacuum.pdf

Does the outside air temperature show fine on your dashboard ? Sounds a silly question but you get a tyre pressure fault and engine fault if that fails.

I also could not hear any clicking, I did try that as I read about that too. But yes VCDS details the exact sensor(s) that is faulty. Test the replaced sensor before fitting the bumper back on to ensure all is good. I had a few sensors failed and I had trouble with all the non VW ones that are available to buy, none that I tried lasted long. In the end I replaced all 4 with the real VW part and had no issues since.

Scan it with VCDS, it will tell you the faulty sensor. They click into the rear bumper, which is easy to remove. If your sensors are colour coded painted to match then some touch up paint on the replacement before clicking it back in.

You don't have to go a dealer. I just got a battery online from Tayna and swapped it myself. If you don't have VCDS, Carista etc then check the VCDS Owners map for someone local. Physically swap the battery yourself and find a local VCDS owner to then update the gateway.

2017 sounds a year early for your battery to begin failing. But you could try putting the car on charge for a few hours, if the stop/start works for a while after that then that would point to the battery. My 2016 Yeti started not doing stop/start a few months ago and a charge up got it going again for a while. Upon a new battery a month ago it has remained working fine. Exactly the same occured btw with my son's Octavia.

Done it's on my Yeti and it needs coding. Even if the same battery type then you have to tell the car a different serial number so it resets all the charge parameters to a new battery. I changed battery manufacturer, Ah rating and battery type EFB to AGM So I had even more bits to update. None were hard as I have a VCDS cable but it's not just swap the battery with some spanners and done.

Have you proved broken wires by pulling back the door gaitor ? If you take your door card off then the full part number will be written on the old loom. You can then order the correct part.