aubrey

My 2016 Yeti with Stop/Start I had to code when I swapped the battery last November. I changed the battery type from EFB to AGM too. All entered into controller 61 Battery Regulation. The serial number I just set to the date I installed it 0029112020.

Scan it with VCDS, that takes all of 5 minutes and will give you far more information.

Are you sure the rear discs need changing at 48k. I've done loads of disc and pad changes on various car models and the rear discs normally last longer than that. Fronts wear yes but not the rears. Or is it as case of while changing the front discs let's just do the lot ? I just did my son's Octavia VRS and again front discs needed changing but the rears were fine. So it was discs and pads up front but just pads on the rear. Then a full brake bleed including the clutch. Another question does anyone have good get the disc off tricks ? I've normally had to whack them a lot with a club hammer to get the disc off, I don't know if the factory does not put any copperease on before fitting but boy are some discs hard to remove. I always wire brush, clean the hub and apply copperease on replacement.

I just had my cambelt done too on my 2016 1.2 Yeti at a VW specialist garage. They said they recommend to change the water pump every 2nd cambelt change. Not an official requirement but something they recommend by experience. I particularly searched for a VW specialist that had the VAS 611007 to check/set the valve timing once the new belt was fitted. The use of that expensive timing tool was the reason I didn't do the belt myself.

I fitted an AGM battery to my Stop/Start Yeti 1.2 DSG after the original EFB battery failed at 4 years old. I got a Varta 096 AGM Battery from Tayna (570901076). I had to recode the Battery Type and I set the serial number to the install date using VCDS. I'm sure it was only about £120 with delivery. Fitting and coding must of taken me about 15 minutes. It's a simple procedure. I wasn't sure if an AGM was much better than the original EFB type but for the little bit more I thought I'd may as well go for the better battery. Edit: Battery link https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

If it snapped then you would very likely need loads more replacing than just the chain. These are interference engines the valves open lower than the piston rises. Without the chain keeping them all timed together they'd smash into each other. Could get very expensive, bent valves, damaged head, holed pistons.

I had the Bank 2 O² sensor go my 1.2tsi Yeti a month ago, that was £100 to get a Meat & Doria one. I think the NOx sensors are around £300 but change the same with a 22mm lambda sensor socket. I'd be interested in your fault code. I got 17143 Bank 1 Sensor 2. Sensor 2 being the after catalyst one. It was easy enough to access from under the car. With the new O² sensor the fault immediately cleared. So what fault code do you have ?

I used to have a Roomster and towed my full up camping trailer around the country no problem. It was the 1.9 TDI engine, so not a comparison with your 1.2 TSI. As you say it can't be any worse than a fully loaded car and you know that works. Watch the nose weight for towing, IIRC it's only 50kg on the Roomster.

Why don't you scan it 1st thing then, while the light is still up ? I thought codes stored afterwards too but maybe not.

Is this useful ? Yeti Vacuum.pdf

Does the outside air temperature show fine on your dashboard ? Sounds a silly question but you get a tyre pressure fault and engine fault if that fails.

I also could not hear any clicking, I did try that as I read about that too. But yes VCDS details the exact sensor(s) that is faulty. Test the replaced sensor before fitting the bumper back on to ensure all is good. I had a few sensors failed and I had trouble with all the non VW ones that are available to buy, none that I tried lasted long. In the end I replaced all 4 with the real VW part and had no issues since.

Scan it with VCDS, it will tell you the faulty sensor. They click into the rear bumper, which is easy to remove. If your sensors are colour coded painted to match then some touch up paint on the replacement before clicking it back in.

You don't have to go a dealer. I just got a battery online from Tayna and swapped it myself. If you don't have VCDS, Carista etc then check the VCDS Owners map for someone local. Physically swap the battery yourself and find a local VCDS owner to then update the gateway.

2017 sounds a year early for your battery to begin failing. But you could try putting the car on charge for a few hours, if the stop/start works for a while after that then that would point to the battery. My 2016 Yeti started not doing stop/start a few months ago and a charge up got it going again for a while. Upon a new battery a month ago it has remained working fine. Exactly the same occured btw with my son's Octavia.

Done it's on my Yeti and it needs coding. Even if the same battery type then you have to tell the car a different serial number so it resets all the charge parameters to a new battery. I changed battery manufacturer, Ah rating and battery type EFB to AGM So I had even more bits to update. None were hard as I have a VCDS cable but it's not just swap the battery with some spanners and done.

Have you proved broken wires by pulling back the door gaitor ? If you take your door card off then the full part number will be written on the old loom. You can then order the correct part.

He seems to just run the pump. I didn't do that, I did the ABS Bleed procedure where VCDS says open both front nipples, pump brake pedal 10 times, close fronts, open rears, pump pedal 10 times etc. I have actually tried that video idea of just running the pump, you can do it under basic settings, but it did not bleed the ABS of air. But the real procedure did, I think it was ABS Group 10 and Go to start it. But I can't remember 100% to be sure on the group number. That is why I wondered if you could confirm the group number on the Yeti for the ABS Bleed as it does seem to change sometimes.

Can you let me know the ABS Bleed procedure. I have VCDS and I've done it both on a Roomster and Fabia. On them it was open both fronts, close, open both rears etc. I'm just wondering if it's the same. Also can you confirm the Group number that you go into on the ABS to activate the procedure.

Exactly the same as bleeding a wheel. The only fiddly bit is where the slave cylinder is and hence getting a bit of tube on it with a little cup to bleed into. It is above the bell housing on top of the engine. You can see it looking down from above, in and left a bit from the battery. Once you see it then you will see the bleed nipple with the same dust cap as on the wheel brakes. So with the pressure bleeder still attached and a little bit of clear tube going into a cup, again the same as at the wheels. Just loosen the bleed nipple until clear fluid flows, again exactly the same as at the wheels. It's been a few years since I've done a Roomster, it may be the case that I removed the airbox but I can't fully remember.

I've never understood ignoring the clutch. It may well not be necessary or make any difference, but is takes a couple of minutes extra when the pressure bleeder is already connected. So why not ?

I bled my Roomster a few times, never had the engine running but used a sealey pressure bleeder. I always used VCDS first and did the ABS bleed, that tells you which front and rear pairs to open together and then did the final normal bleed order of FR, FL, RR, RL Finally while the pressure bleeder was still connected I always did the clutch too.

I think VagTacho can obtain it

If you have the key pin code that used to come with a new car then it's quite easy with VCDS. I did it on my old 2007 Roomster, but that came with the key matching pin code on purchase in a little plastic tag. I know those codes were not supplied after some time and the dealer diagnostic computer now queries the main server for them and the key exchange is even hidden from the dealer.

As long as you're sure. If a garage said drive belt to me I wouldn't think of the cam belt immediately as I wouldn't expect a garage to call it anything else.