aubrey

Is the pedal, after a press or two, high and solid with the engine off. Then it sinks down low on engine start ? The calipers are installed with the bleed nipple upwards ? Just asking as I've known people install them crossed sides before.

Did it also allow you to view and edit battery type e.g. EFB, AGM (Fleece) etc ?

Why wouldn't you though ? It's so simple to do the coding. I guess there is a, if you have something to do the coding with, to add there. But seeing that I do then it is something I always do when swapping or helping others swap VAG batteries. Maybe it's not that necessary if swapping like for like but I've never been given any technical proof of that and nobody has ever said it does any harm to do the coding.

@Breezy_Pete Do Yetis suffer from door loom problems. Not had any issues yet, but just wondering if those are included within them later models ?

Definitely check the wiring in the gaitor between car body and door, those wires do break and cause this. You can unclip and pull the concertina black gaitor back revealing the cores. I had to change the door loom on my old Roomster for this.

Привет, как дела 😃 Уровень масла повысился ? Уровень охлаждающей жидкости уменьшился 🤔 Тоже мне надо вам говорить что язык тут обычно на английском.

I changed mine using one of these to remove the coil packs. This made it simple. https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExY0TkM Be careful removing the 4 pin electrical connectors, holding the locking tab out with a little pick releases them easier than the side press tab. You need a slimline socket to get down the cylinder head recess holes. I smeared a little silicone grease on the coil pack base on refitting

I used VCDS and you have values Battery Type (AGM), Ah (70), Serial Number (11111111) and Manufacturer (Varta). The trick is just change serial number even if the rest remain the same. Ah often changes a little too. But as you see nothing to do with a BEM code anyway.

This one ? https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a7/

I'd just go to the Tayna website and input the reg number. That's all I did and confirmed the result matched in size, terminal configuration, Ah. Then just ordered the Varta AGM one.

I used VCDS to do the battery coding, or the BMS (battery management system) coding to be more technically correct as the process does nothing to the battery. The process is setting new values in the BMS. Those values being Battery Type e.g. EFB, AGM (old name was Fleece), Battery Ah, Battery Manufacturer (don't think this even matters), Battery serial number (even if none of the former changes then change this to reset the charging profile, the value itself doesn't matter, it is just a change that matters) OBD11 is completely capable of editing those data values. It is simply a matter of selecting from choices and typing values in boxes. Search on Google for Battery coding using OBD11, you'll find find YouTube videos and other guides. You'll see it is quite simple. I read earlier about keeping a 12v power feed on the vehicle while swapping the battery. It's not necessarily, all you'll lose is the trip milage and the clock time. The fault light will auto clear on a round the block drive with some left and right turns. As a final comment look at Carista as well, as an alternative to OBD11. As said earlier I use VCDS and don't have personal experience of either of the others, but I have read that Carista is simpler to use

@Kamal7 Your original oil, shows VW502. So for every year Oil + Oil Filter change then it is OK :

You need Specification VW507, example: Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL Engine Oil Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 Advanced Fully Synthetic Engine Oil

It's interesting that stop start is still functioning if the battery is poor. The system normally inhibits stop start unless the battery is holding enough charge for it. That is how I first knew my original EFB battery was on the way out, The stop start very rarely occured. I changed to a Varta AGM and can also recommend them too. My stop start functionality immediately returned after the battery swap.

Full speed may well still work.

My last manual car, a Roomster 1.9 PD, didn't have a concentric slave cylinder. But I understand your point. My current vehicle is a 1.2 Yeti DSG, so obviously no clutch bleeding on that. So reading up now on how you do indeed bleed concentric slave cylinders gives me even more reasons why a garage would avoid doing the task unless specifically instructed to do so.

I've always bled the clutch too while I've had a pressure bleeder attached to do the brakes. Never had any issues, but what if say the bleed nipple broke off. However unlikely that may be, who takes the risk. The clutch can be more of a pain to bleed. Brakes, up on the ramp and the bleed nipples are there to go around all 4. The clutch you often have to take airbox and sometimes the battery out to access it. I don't see why a garage would not do though if you actually request it to be done.

That is true but even when I had air in ABS Unit this still occurs. The difference is with air in the ABS, when keeping this firm high up pedal pressure then start the engine and the pedal drops a lot. A little drop on engine start is normal, maybe an inch or so, I'm talking about a big drop on engine start. I did an ABS bleed and that big drop disappeared and the brakes immediately felt firmer while driving.

You only need to ABS Bleed if you got air into the ABS unit. I did once by letting the brake fluid reservoir run dry, only realising when only air came out of the bleed nipple instead of fluid, and did indeed do the ABS Bleed Procedure using VCDS. So unless you have a reason for why air has got into the ABS unit or you have fitted a replacement unit it won't be required. You may find the pedal improves as the brakes bed in. If after a while you still feel the pedal travel is too much then if normal bleeding does not help then there is no harm doing an ABS Bleed just to be sure. Did you bleed using a pressure bleeder ?

Airbag faults are latching and can only be cleared with an OBD diagnostic tool that can reset that module, VCDS and other VAG compatible OBD tools. So you need to just clear the fault and hopefully it won't reappear.

A few millimetres can cause that. You must do a few turns of the crankshaft manually once the new belt is all fitted and tensioner completed. You need to ensure all the locking tools just slide in again easily. I've often found I've had to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts again and adjust a little when doing pd engines, maybe yours is similar. Any top sprockets can need a little adjustment. After that another 2 crankshaft turns and it was still good on re-testing with the locking tools. That's actually when I finally do the final +90° tighten

You've just changed the Timing Belt and the car is now saying Camshaft Position Sensor Incorrect Correlation. Cam Timing wrong seems the obvious answer, having just removed and replaced the timing belt Was the cam sensor damaged or unplugged while doing that. Are you getting any VCDS measurement blocks reading from the cam sensor to prove the cam sensor is still functioning.

I thought Android Auto needed enabling at a dealer, used to be at a cost of ~£120. Could it simply be it is not enabled on your other car ?

I'm interested if you get a resolution to this. I also had a Skoda Radio in my Yeti that I paid to have SmartLink activated on. The Bolero I think. After a few years Android Auto would just cutoff mid drive, sometimes reconnect, often didn't and I gave up in the end, I couldn't rely on it. So I fitted an Android Head Unit instead. But as said, I'm interested if there is a fix.

I just put a usb adapter in mine. A short one that just fits the hole and does not stick out the top. Seems far simpler a solution. What's the reason you want to actually change the existing cigarette lighter socket and replace with something different ?