pikpilot

I looks to me that the wires go the supply side of the fuse location; that is to say the only protection for the wires is an up-supply side fuse of 30A or greater. That will not provide protection to those wires and could cause a fire under fault conditions. Unplug/remove them now. This is a bodge by someone who is not a trained electrician.

If you have a Climatronic heater then you can use the humidity control feature to help dry the car (and also clear the windscreen fast). Just set the temperature to where you normally have it but with the blower a bit faster. Then make sure the air conditioning is set to ON. I know it sounds daft but the water is removed by the cold side of the A/C before being heated to the set temperature. Leaving it on recirculation for short periods will help.

Bleeding the clutch actuator (slave cylinder) is an easy and cheap job if external to the clutch housing. Should have been done at 2 year brake fluid change.

With the engine off if you can simulate driving through the gears in sequence it is unlikely to be the gearbox. The high bight point and the brief stuck down peddle suggests a clutch / actuator problem. Has the clutch system been bled of air? Have you posed the problem in the Mk 3 forum? (2015 car)? Did the garage say they saw the problem? or do they just not want to investigate?

If you go into media on the Bolero radio you will see a choice of CD, SD card or AUX as sources. Cheaper versions do not have Aux so looking there will confirm if AUX is present or not. Manuals for your car and radio for all years are available from the sticky thread at the top.

Welcome to the forum. I have had my 1.6 for over 10 years. There was a "fix" for the dieselgate issue which I (and many others) chose to ignore. Those who did have the fix found the engine to be less torquey and plagued by multiple failures of the EGR - an expensive unit to change (in labour cost). It is easy to tell if yours has the fix as one of the changes was to insert an air straightener inside the input air pipe near the air cleaner. It sounds like your car was not changed as you mentioned the good performance in second and third. As mentioned in the user manual, the trick is to get out of first within three car lengths and use the power you get in 2nd and 3rd. Mine is even better since I changed the injectors. The glowplug light is used as a general indicator there is a problem warning stored in the ECU. MPG depends on the temperature and the short/long journeys. In winter and only short journeys I get around 54 and in summer well over 60 as long as I don't get too enthusiastic on the motorways. I have also had over 70mpg over long country roads in Norfolk. I use my phone with a bluetooth receiver plugged into the AUX socket in the central armrest cubby hole. I don't use the phone as a phone while driving, just for listening to music stored on it.

Not turbo sticky vanes/overboost if engine on/off does not reset limp mode.

Common limp mode plus no messages problem is usually overboost from the turbo. Look for stiff/stuck turbo actuator. Does the limp mode reset after switching the engine off then on again?

Once you have the panel can you place a photo on here before you do anything as members on here might be able to give their experience on the next steps. The Haynes manual for the Mk2 Octavia gives instructions for removing the display panel and a few pictures.

Please ignore my previous posts on this problems. I had mixed up in my mind the repair done on a different model. You can remove the display panel by removing two screws and then release it from clips at the top of the bezel. To reach the screws you need to remove the facia trim from the left and right sides of the steering column plus the central trim over the steering column. To remove the light switch from the trim you turn the switch knob a few degrees clockwise from off and then pull out. After removing the display panel you would have access to the clear plastic panel. What I don't know is whether the plastic panel comes away with display panel, like some other models, or if it is fastened permanently to the dash panel, which I suspect. If you choose to cut it out and replace it, you would have to ensure that all the plastic around the edge are also removed to avoid having a height difference which could stop you screwing the display panel in correctly.

It is a cause that has been posted here before. You have done the right things to avoid this cause. However, it is worth checking the oil pipe when you replace the turbo.

Failed turbo is often caused by worn bearing (siren type of noise when running) or break-up of the bearing. A blockage of the oil feed pipe soon causes failure.

When you replace the alarm, spend the money and buy a genuine new unit. if you look on auction sites etc you can see used alarms at good prices - it is said that these are often from scrapped cars and may have failed or will fail soon.

I see you have a late Stream model. Go to the pinned handbook posts above and look for your year and model. You should see a link to the handbook for your radio.

The Perspex is clipped to the covering trim. Easiest way is get a new cover with Perspex from a scrappy. Look on here for other posts that include access to the display panel as they also describe how to remove the cover. You cannot remove the Perspex from the trim cover with the trim cover in place as the fixing clips are inside.

What radio model is installed? I don't recall any model with three type A usb ports. In my car with a Bolero radio I can plug a Bluetooth receiver into the AUX socket in the central armrest/cubby hole, then set the radio to AUX. No good for phone conversations but can play anything stored on your phone. Music sounds no different to same tune played on the SD card on the front of the radio.

The alarm (siren) is mounted behind the offside wheel arch cover on right hand drive cars. It is held in place with one bolt and one rivet. Take a look at the pinned thread above concerning alarm replacement:- Once the alarm appears to misbehave after 6 or more years in use, it is best to replace it in my experience. It may be on the other side on your LHD drive car. Remove the wheel and wheel arch cover to gain access. There are photos in some other alarm threads.

It is one of those switches that relies on a coating on the plastic or rubber. Once they start being intermittent they fail soon after. Replace.

Adaption does not not do anything physical to the DPF. A high ash load unit will always be near end of life. Perhaps more frequent regenerations needed if the active part of the DPF is too small?

Try these: Look at this and This Both on ebay, Right click on the underlined words and then click on "open link in new tab"

This code suggests a fuel pump or relay problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.php?q=P0091

With the battery light on it indicates no charging taking place. Check the alternator connection and particularly where the alternator cable is connected to its vertical fuse in the engine bay below the battery. Sometimes the end of the cable (in the crimp) has white deposits from corrosion. Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing ANYTHING to this cable. It could also be a failing alternator if the car is high mileage. The TCS light can come on if the battery voltage is too low due to lack of charging. Reinforced by the fact the car wont start either. I would forget about an ECU fault until you have fixed the charging problem.

I have the same model and the handbook says fuse 12 is the "Control unit for CAN databus" With this fuse removed it probably explains the loss of locking as this uses the databus. There are a number of items (like the window controls) which are kept active for ~10 minutes after turning the ignition key to off, and still drawing current. Doesn't help with finding your fault but Fuse 12 may be a red herring unless you can show that appreciable flows through it with the car locked.

Check the dash display for a door open icon every time you open the driver's door. If it doesn't display then check for a broken wire(s) in the cable trunk from the door frame to the driver's door. A broken wire (intermittent) here doesn't answer all your points but does answer the beeps and alarm issues.

Easy to repair in situ. If you are not happy to do it yourself or don't have a friend who can do it, then about half an hours work at an auto electricians. Probably less time than changing the loom.