pikpilot

A nice thing about the 1.6 cr engine with dpf is the low emissions, which results in just a thin grey covering at the tail pipe. If yours was burning oil it would have a thick black coating. What does yours have?

Well you are lucky in that the alarm has lasted over two years longer than mine which is the same age and model. The alarms will get more frequent and eventually the unit will have to be replaced. I never tried removing the alarm fuse but it is fuse 35 in the fusebox at the end of the dash. See page 213 in your handbook.

The handbook for your car says you need 4.3 litres if the oil filter and oil are both changed. A hot oil smell can be caused by oil spilt and not cleaned away. Loss of oil soon after an oil change is often caused by the mechanic using the old drain plug and gasket. VW state that a new drain plug and copper gasket should always be used.

May need the cable lengths adjusting to compensate for stretch. It is very easy to do as the method automatically sets the right length. Basically you lock the gear leaver in the cabin using a 5mm drill. Then pull and turn the locking pin near the selector mech under the bonnet. Last step is pull back the spring on the each of the two gear cable ends and then put them back again. This last action will put the cable end on at the right part of the cable. Before doing this easy adjustment, first look for slop and wear on all moving parts and replace as necessary. Many videos on youtube

As standard, all models come with a software rev limiter when the car is stationary. Somewhere around 3000 rpm.

One of my injectors failed completely and another was on its way (1.6l cr). I had these two replaced. On this engine it is well known that once one injector fails, the others will go soon after. After replacing the other two before they failed and having done ~ 1000 miles, with occasional diesel knock in the first 100 miles, it has transformed the engine with higher torque and more mpg. I intend to keep this 13 year old car. Yes, the cost can be high but remember you could be loosing more money in depreciation on a newer car. Outside this engine problem and door lock plus a rear wiper motor, it has has been reliable over the ten years I've had it.

It the same icon for both on my car.

Just a though - my car handbook says if the warning flashes while driving, check the oil level and top up with oil as necessary. Could it be a failing oil level sensor? If it has one?

Take a look at this:

It a common problem on older cars that one or mores wires in the rubber boot between the driver's door and the body are broken. First signs are often an intermittent function as the ends of the broken wires meet then separate.

1) Low air flow to screen. Some of the air that is used for the screen is diverted to the side widows via the hole you see when the door is open. This reduces the screen air flow but only a small amount. But it will be less than that in other makes of car without this feature. 2) Change to climatronics. You may not need to think about this. There are two versions of the manual controls - one with just a single button for recirculation and one with an A/C button as well as recirculation. If you have the dual buttons then you can manually drive the system like a climatronic i.e. you can have the A/C on at the same time as setting the heater to a high temperature. In fact if you choose max air to the screen you will see it also switches on the A/C too to demist the screen faster.

Not experienced this myself but it could be the automatic humidity control. On my car the a/c comes on when the max air to screen button is pressed and the humidity is high. To reduce the humidity in the cabin, the a/c is used to produce cold air to condense out the water vapour to liquid water. The dryer air is then heated to the set temperature before going to the cabin/windows. On days where moisture has "misted up" the windows, manually switching on the a/c and a higher fan speed (without adjusting the air temperature) will very quickly demist the windows.

Additional to my post above, on most models you will see that the a/c compressor is switched on automatically when you press the "max air to screen" button if the humidity is high. The water in the humid air is condensed to liquid water by chilling and then runs down a pipe to the outside.

I looks to me that the wires go the supply side of the fuse location; that is to say the only protection for the wires is an up-supply side fuse of 30A or greater. That will not provide protection to those wires and could cause a fire under fault conditions. Unplug/remove them now. This is a bodge by someone who is not a trained electrician.

If you have a Climatronic heater then you can use the humidity control feature to help dry the car (and also clear the windscreen fast). Just set the temperature to where you normally have it but with the blower a bit faster. Then make sure the air conditioning is set to ON. I know it sounds daft but the water is removed by the cold side of the A/C before being heated to the set temperature. Leaving it on recirculation for short periods will help.

Bleeding the clutch actuator (slave cylinder) is an easy and cheap job if external to the clutch housing. Should have been done at 2 year brake fluid change.

With the engine off if you can simulate driving through the gears in sequence it is unlikely to be the gearbox. The high bight point and the brief stuck down peddle suggests a clutch / actuator problem. Has the clutch system been bled of air? Have you posed the problem in the Mk 3 forum? (2015 car)? Did the garage say they saw the problem? or do they just not want to investigate?

If you go into media on the Bolero radio you will see a choice of CD, SD card or AUX as sources. Cheaper versions do not have Aux so looking there will confirm if AUX is present or not. Manuals for your car and radio for all years are available from the sticky thread at the top.

Welcome to the forum. I have had my 1.6 for over 10 years. There was a "fix" for the dieselgate issue which I (and many others) chose to ignore. Those who did have the fix found the engine to be less torquey and plagued by multiple failures of the EGR - an expensive unit to change (in labour cost). It is easy to tell if yours has the fix as one of the changes was to insert an air straightener inside the input air pipe near the air cleaner. It sounds like your car was not changed as you mentioned the good performance in second and third. As mentioned in the user manual, the trick is to get out of first within three car lengths and use the power you get in 2nd and 3rd. Mine is even better since I changed the injectors. The glowplug light is used as a general indicator there is a problem warning stored in the ECU. MPG depends on the temperature and the short/long journeys. In winter and only short journeys I get around 54 and in summer well over 60 as long as I don't get too enthusiastic on the motorways. I have also had over 70mpg over long country roads in Norfolk. I use my phone with a bluetooth receiver plugged into the AUX socket in the central armrest cubby hole. I don't use the phone as a phone while driving, just for listening to music stored on it.

Not turbo sticky vanes/overboost if engine on/off does not reset limp mode.

Common limp mode plus no messages problem is usually overboost from the turbo. Look for stiff/stuck turbo actuator. Does the limp mode reset after switching the engine off then on again?

Once you have the panel can you place a photo on here before you do anything as members on here might be able to give their experience on the next steps. The Haynes manual for the Mk2 Octavia gives instructions for removing the display panel and a few pictures.

Please ignore my previous posts on this problems. I had mixed up in my mind the repair done on a different model. You can remove the display panel by removing two screws and then release it from clips at the top of the bezel. To reach the screws you need to remove the facia trim from the left and right sides of the steering column plus the central trim over the steering column. To remove the light switch from the trim you turn the switch knob a few degrees clockwise from off and then pull out. After removing the display panel you would have access to the clear plastic panel. What I don't know is whether the plastic panel comes away with display panel, like some other models, or if it is fastened permanently to the dash panel, which I suspect. If you choose to cut it out and replace it, you would have to ensure that all the plastic around the edge are also removed to avoid having a height difference which could stop you screwing the display panel in correctly.

It is a cause that has been posted here before. You have done the right things to avoid this cause. However, it is worth checking the oil pipe when you replace the turbo.

Failed turbo is often caused by worn bearing (siren type of noise when running) or break-up of the bearing. A blockage of the oil feed pipe soon causes failure.