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pikpilot

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Everything posted by pikpilot

  1. This refers to the daylight driving light bulbs which are adjacent to the fog lights on some models, such as the Elegance trim level. I have had intermttent bulb warnings on the number plate illumination. Replacing both the bulbs fixed it.
  2. I assume you checked the brake/clutch fluid level. The usual cause is a failed clutch position sensor. This is either a switch at the top of the clutch pedal or a sensor in the hydraulics line. The glow plug light should go off when the cause is fixed.
  3. Those wires are corroded. You will need uses a solder flux to aid tinning the wires before joing them.
  4. Thats the situation I was in. When the garage went to change the first injector they also looked at the other three and found one of them was aslo well out of spec. So injectors two and three were changed. Knowing from posts on here that the others were likely to fail, I had injectors one and four changed by an independant VAG specialist at about half the material cost and lower labour rate. It may be a 12 year old car but I see it as keeper. I have no experience of reconditioned injectors but based on (maybe biased) heresay I decided to bite the cost bullet.
  5. The 1.6 L engine is prone to injector failure beyond 75,000 miles/10+ years. Furthermore, once one fails, the others fail soon after. You say a greenline model so it is just my guess that yours is a 1.6 l. You can find the engine code in the boot on a sticker near the place for a spare wheel. For example mine is CAYC and yours will have similar format.
  6. If you use a 30A relay, that is oversize for the current taken on the contacts by the camera. On all electrical circuits the rule is that any wiring must be fused to protect the cable on its full length (fire protection against shorts.) For the camera supply I suggest you use the cabin fusebox on the driver's end of the dashbord for supply and fusing. There are several spare slots at different maximum currents, switched and continuous. A good solution is to use a piggy back fuse holder on one of the existing fuses, using such as this. It has two fuse positions - one for the original fuse and one for fusing the new circuit.
  7. Acording to my diagram it is a red wire with a black stripe. The changeover year was 2013 so it may have changed on late build 2012 cars. You can check by taking out the bulb unit in the boot as though you were changing a bulb and see if that colour wire goes to the connector. Some people have had a problem with black stripes on pictures from the camera due to interference from CAN and other sources. Do a search on this forum for further information if needed.
  8. Thanks for all the info in this thread. My wife's car had a warning of a flat battery in the remote so I initially changed the battery. But the red light on the remote did not come on. I then put a new battery in the spare (it had never been used), but same result - no red led and not opening the car. So I now had two keys that didn't work. After reading this thread I tried resychonising the keys. Seems that the red light in the remote does not come on when pressing a button after a battery change (unlike my Octavia) until the key until it has been resychronised with the car. Also, while doing this, you need to leave the ignition on with the new key for about a minute for the sychronisation to complete. [The ignition has to be turned on anyway to switch off the alarm when you manually unlock thr car]
  9. Have you looked on line for likely causes? I would suspect a blocked DPF or a broken injector nose. If you have a simple wifi or blutooth OBD2 connector for the diagnostic port, there is a good app for reading the DPF ash content.
  10. The above post by me was in the wrong place and shpuld be deleted.
  11. Have you looked on line for likely causes? I would suspect a blocked DPF or a broken injector nose. If you have an OBD2 reader for your diagnostic port, there is a good app for reading the DPF ash content.
  12. I never knew you could unscrew and take off the outer door skin to get to the lock etc. as shown in the last video. !!!!
  13. The spec of the unit says there is no DAB capability, only AM and FM: Radio - Main Chips: TDA7708 - AM Frequency Range: 522-1620KHz - AM Increment: 9KHz(EU)/10KHz(US) - FM Tuning Range: 87.5-108MHz - FM Increment: 0.05MHz(EU)/0.1MHz(US) - FM Area: Europe/USA1/USA2/Japan/Russia - RDS: On/Off - Preset Stations: 30(FM 3*6, AM 2*6) It also has a capabilty for an external DAB tuner: DAB(+)-IN - Built-in DAB Player App: Yes, just connect a DAB-Receiver to use this function - Connection Port: USB - Power Supply to DAB-Receiver directly: Yes - Touch Control DAB-Receiver on unit: Yes - DAB-Receiver incl.: No, you can contact us to buy it together So you need to buy the optional external DAB receiver. An aerial will be required and some will work mounted inside the dash when driving in towns.
  14. The resistor controls the fan speed, not the temperature. You have done a flap reset but can you check (hear?) the mixer flap actually moving? The other possibility is that the hot water is limited in flow rate or temperature. Open the bonnet and at the firewall you will see two water hoses going through to the heater. Check that both are hot with all settings of the heater setting. Suspect a collapsed hose or failed thermostat.
  15. Mine has the same problem on hot days in summer when the car has been standing in the sun. Once the car has cooled down (driving a couple of miles with air con on) it is ok until the next really hot day. It is/was the same before and after changing the door control unit in the driver's door. I suspect it is the comfort control module behind/below the dash - the electronics not liking the heat. However it could be metal expansion of the microswitch operating lever. The Octavia II is different to that shown in the link. A small warning. If the door has been opened and the door open icon is not displayed. the car will self lock after about 10 minutes even with key in the lock. Always have a key with you if the engine is not running.
  16. It is usually the plug that goes into a socket on the seat frame. it is roughly in the centre or slightly forward.
  17. Often caused by disturbing the wiring or connectors under the drivers seat. Did the garage vacuum clean the carpets? But, as said, even if you find a fault and fix it, you will need the correct software to unlatch the fault display.
  18. Easyto check for temperature by hand on each wheel centre. I towed an aircraft trailer on which the handbrake was not releasing on one side. Not only was the axle bearing hot, the grease was boiling! Doesn't need of a brake bind to give poor mpg.
  19. You are not the first to find this but it is not common. Some other posts in this forum show similar but not recently. I think you know what to do.
  20. A good place to look for help with fault codes is the Ross-Tech fault codes list here and the their wiki. Following the above I found a post in the forum saying one person found your new code came up because of a sticky butterfly valve and fixed it with a lttle WD40! Look for the thread in the Car Repair forum for Code 001592 p0638 Throttle Body Actuator Bank 1 (J338) Also look at other threads for further help.
  21. As post above says plus it is common to have driver's door controller fail, including mine. The lights you mentioned will not come if the door open icon does not come on as it thinks the door is still closed.
  22. That's what happenned to me when the humidy was high after days of rain and condesation in the car. Left the windows open on a sunny day and everthing fixed.
  23. All cables must be fused. The fuse must be rated to protect the cable and not the the load. You can of course put in a smaller fuse to protect both if you wish. Many car fires are cuased by individuals running a cable to loads such as a winch, roof lights or bass amplifiers without even giving a thought to putting in a fuse where the cable picks up up its power, such as straight onto the battery.
  24. The information that the boot is open is not getting to the display. Usual reasons are a faulty switch in the boot lock or a broken wire. Which leads on to: The rear wiper is inibited if it thinks the boot is open.

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