pikpilot

Likely to be software issue and needs recoding. After disconnecting and reconnecting the battery I had to have the driver's door lock recoded to make the entry light at the bottom of the door mirror active again. You are not the first to have this problem. The best thread is this:

Hear Hear! My reason for buying Carista was so I could activate my factory fitted DRL's, cheaper than asking the Skoda garage to do it. Having got the app I then found loads of other useful hidden features that I could activate. Seems they differentiate between Makes or Models by switching feature on as standard on up market cars as a marketing ploy. Reminds me of the story recently in the Sunday times. One of their journalists had bought a Tesla and is very happy with his car. After a few months some of the features no longer worked. Response from Tesla was "Oh, those features are on a x months trial on new cars. If you wish to to continue the cost will be XX or x per month. That is progress?

When we bought our Fabia last February, we asked the dealership to give us a print out of the service history as there was no Service Book. Any Skoda garage can do this for you.

Well, as promised, I can report that the Skoda garage has fixed my puddle light in the driver's mirror. Apparently the official name is an entry light. The garage warned me that there was a high chance of the mirror breaking but I told them to try to release the mirror up to the point where it seemed likely to break. They added that the mirror usually breaks in cold weather when removing it. There are some people who seem to have the knack, and their man did remove the "glass" without it breaking. In fact the mirror is not made of glass but acrylic, which explains why mine was bending when I tried. Changing the bulb for the one I supplied did not work. Further investigate with their software tools showed that the bulb was not being told to be active. A tick in the right place on the software then brought it to life. At this point I should point out that the same garage had, last year, replaced the door lock assembly in the drivers door. This is a master controller for other doors and many other things. When picking up the car, I noticed the red/white light on the inside of the door card was not illuminating. Straight back to the garage and they found that they had not programed the door lock assembly to activate the door card light. Soon fixed. So I don't know how the entry light programing had been lost, but it was a simple fix once found. Perhaps there is a fault in my door lock? Perhaps it was when the battery was disconnected at some time? I thought door lock assemblies were just swapped for one with the same part number without a need for programing; or did the garage use a general purpose unit that has to be programmed to the features of the particular car Make and Model?

You seem to have disassembled the unit more than is necessary or your unit is different to mine. I found that access to the brush holders and the brushes inside them was quite easy. I moved the brushes back and forth in their holder to wear away the sides of the brushes until they became not so tight. I have repurposed the wiper motor assembly but if time allows, I will take some photos for comparisons. Sorry for the delay in posting but I had not noticed that the topic had slipped over to the previous page.

Yes, pre facelift which push in to a circular ring clip are easy Facelift versions have a plastic piece on the back of the mirror which has two arms facing towards the front of the car. These arms push into gripper sockets on the main assembly. Must have been designed by the same guy who who designed the cover on the small grill to allow you to change the DRL bulbs! I had to get a Skoda garage to remove mine (for free, including the grunting etc).

I am in the same position, and have been for about 6 months. In my case it is on the driver's side. I have bought a pair of 25% longer life bulbs from Halfords, type 501/ W5W. There is a video on YouTube that shows how to change the bulb. You remove the mirror by pulling its' two tangs out of sockets in the frame then take out 4 screws to release the bulb holder. Total time to fix is about 10 minute. BUT getting the mirror out is a real pain. I have tried all kinds of tools plus just pulling with fingers. With each tool I gave up when the mirror started to bend. Posts on Briskoda and elsewhere say that it so tight that you have to apply a lot of force and often the glass will break. I was considering leaving the bulb as is, after all it is just a puddle light, but I miss it as there are no street lights here. But I was talking to my SKODA garage when booking the car in service and MOT and they said they can replace the bulb at the same time as they often have to do it - but sometimes the glass mirror breaks! I have told them to try when they have the car (2 Dec) but not to break it! We will see! I will report back. Just one of many vids:= https://resetservicelight.com/change-glass-side-mirror-skoda-octavia-ii-facelift/

I believe you now have to pay to get customisation. In the HELP section of their website it talks as though customisation is in the PRO version; a paid for choice at start up. https://help.caristaapp.com/hc/en-us/articles/360009767180-How-do-I-get-the-PRO-version-

Not sure what you are trying to say. Yes, the diagnostic port is a tight fit on the plug-in unit. The bigger problem is pulling it out!! There are no other apps that I am aware off that are dedicated to VAG vehicles and can make changes to optional features. Is not the question in the app about the type of OBD2 unit, asking whether you want to connect by WiFi or Bluetooth.

I forgot to say, check for corrosion in the fuse box near the battery. Water ingress can corrode the fuse holders and the fuses and has been found on older cars. Check also for overheating/melting of the plug in fuses as a result of poor contact.

My understanding is that the free trial is now only available if you buy the (expensive) Carista OBD2 reader. If you download the app it will ask you choose one of three payment options. At that point it may give you a trial???

Increased revs to try to recharge the battery, more so when additional load loads are switched on, plus radio turning off are all signs of low capacity in the battery. This can be caused by the battery being near end of life or the alternator not supplying enough recharge current. My bet would be on the battery as it would read the correct voltages, steady state, with a reduced capacity. How old is the battery? Are the connections clean? Are the body connections to the alternator and battery good with no sign of corrosion? The supply to the radio (and some non essential loads) is shut off automatically if the system detects reducing battery voltage.

Probably needs a new battery. The electronics give that display when you try to start with a battery that cannot supply the starting current. You can prove it by temporarily swapping the battery with a known good battery; perhaps even when using jumper cables from another car. Once started, (1) check that the alternator is recharging the battery and (2) there is no continuous discharge overnight such as when a non VAG radios have been fitted incorrectly.

Ignore the disc and use one of the paid for apps, or one of the free trial apps. I was lucky in that, as an early user, I now have free updates on Carista but I believe new users now have to pay a yearly fee. However, it is probably the best app for VAG cars. It is unlikely that you will mess up irretrievably with these owner targeted apps, but you can do so with professional programs such a VagCom as the authors assumed you have a greater depth of knowledge.

So the failed connection is upstream or a poor earth connection. With a poor earth connection at the bulb holder, the bulb failure feature will detect no bulb current and shut off its supply (0.6V residual) until the next bulb test soon after start up, So it is correct to see this voltage at the connector in this scenario of no return path.

Once the system has detected a failed bulb it will remove the supply from that bulb, hence you only see 0.6V or so; the actually voltage depends on the input resistance of your meter. There are two common cases. One is a poor earth connection at the negative wire to body stud on the left hand side wheel arch area. As your other bulbs are working this is an unlikely cause. The second cause is poor contact with the bulb, or at the cable connector. This is more likely on a 13 year old car and has been reported before.

Not so. The reason I bought the Carista app was to set up the DRLs on my 2012 car. Cars from 2011/2012 came with DRLs fitted but not activated as the law requiring them was not yet in force. Using the Carista app I activated the DRLs and then switched them on using the left hand stalk procedure shown in the handbook. Worked first time and easy to do. Equally, if you wish to activate/deactivate the long press for window opening, you can do that too on these models using the app. If you don't like the feature then you can turn it off. In addition to opening the windows with a long press, it automatically gives you the same feature by using the lock/unlock switch in the centre of the car. This is particularly useful in the summer to dump warm air after the car has been stood in the sun. So, get in the car, start the engine and drive away then make a long press on the unlock side of the switch. All four windows open and and the hot air is sucked out. A minute or so later make a long press on the switch to close all the windows again just as the air-con starts to work. From the Carista app I have copied below the related windows features you might find useful.:- Enable settings for opening/closing windows and sunroof Yes / No Open/close windows and sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Open/close windows and sunroof by turning and holding key in door lock Yes / No Open sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Close sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Blink turn signals when done closing windows via remote Yes / No Open only driver's window via long-press on remote Yes / No Allow power window operation after ignition is turned off Yes / No

The enabling work for DRLs referred to above can also be done with the Carista app on facelift models. Once done, they can be turned on or off using the turn indicator stalk as mentioned above and also described in the handbook.

With the boot open, remove trim the left hand side so you can see a metal stud welded to the panel with a number of wires going to it, including the negative/ground wires for your boot lights. Often the connection become corroded by leakage from the screen washer pipe. If the water in the pipe freezes due to insufficient strength of washer fluid then the frozen fluid will push off a pipe connector with the result above.

Still sounds like a loose connection or a connection at an earth stud. When it happens can you use a multimeter to check the voltage at a non working part and then also the volts from a failed supply directly to battery positive and finally from the negative of the failed unit to battery negative. Alternatively, find someone locally to run diagnostics using VCDS software. This will show where there is a supply discontinuity. Not common but not unknown is a battery that has an internal connection fault. Borrow another battery to see what happens.

Check tightness of battery connectors; check for corrosion around the large fuses in the fusebox next to the battery. Your symptoms are indicative of an intermittent supply to high current loads. Can also be caused by a failing battery - when was it last changed? or checked?

The noise only happened on a previous car of mine when I was accelerating hard through the gears. Soon got very noisy so that people turned their heads to look. No noise at low revs as the turbo (not variable vane) wasn't doing anything.

If it sounds like a police car is following you with its siren on, its the turbo bearings on their way out.

Sounds like you have a head gasket leak. What happens after a short burst of full power is that the engine gasses are forced through the head gasket leak into the coolant system. The excess pressure in the coolant system causes coolant to be automatically vented out by the pressure release cap (filler cap). When the engine and coolant starts to cool down, the coolant in the expansion bottle get drawn back into the engine coolant passages. The variability you noticed is common as it depends on temperatures and amount of gasses leaked to get enough pressure to open the pressure relief valve in the cap. When it does happen it can be fast. Looks like it is a not a major leak so may be difficult to confirm with a coolant pressure test or a coolant chemical test.

I had one like that on a previous car after the key had been dropped. I opened it up and found that a solder joint on the pc board had failed. Soldered it up and it worked again. However, replacing the key is the way to be sure there are no further issues. Others who replaced lost keys through a Skoda dealer have reported on here that it takes about 4 weeks as it is custom made and then shipped from the Continent.