pikpilot

If that is the Indian video then he overcomplicates and guesses.

The first line above says the ignition supply is intermittent The second line I suggest is because you have to move the contacts in the ignition switch barrel and the worn contacts won't remake. All of which points to needing a new ignition switch on the back of the barrel assembly. There are videos showing how to do this and, from memory, seems easy. Just found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYVjVhGVQ68

I had this problem and the dealer said you need to change the spring assembly which includes the little plastic bit on the end, referred to in the post above. I decided to try lubricating it with a spray lubricant. This fixed it for quite a while but it comes back in certain weather conditions. It is quite common and Skoda assured me that it is not a sign of impending failure so I now ignore it. If you spray a lubricant on there you will probably find access difficult. In my case it took another week before lubrication became effective and the clicking stopped, probably because a general spray takes a while to run down to the right place.

You can test the above by turning off the internal sensor by using the switch at the bottom of the door pillar on the driver's side. See handbook for details.

My 2012 car goes out of radio text when I turn off the engine.

I had a similar problem earlier this year after the car was stood unused during a period of nearly two weeks of rain. Several other people had reported similar random dash board warning lights. In all cases the clue was that the faults lights changed depending on what else was switched-on as shown in attached photos. I fixed mine by leaving all the windows open on the first sunny day. Likely to have been moisture condensation. No problems since then.

The key that was in a drawer will have lost its place in the sequence of codes. Use it to manually unlock the door then immediately use it to turn on the ignition. Then turn off the ignition and remove the key. This should have re-synchronised the remote.

Make search on here as a few years ago there was a report of no cooling on the passenger side being caused by low gas in the air con. As you have all the software tools perhaps there is clue there?

Using the Skoda manuals topic that is in the permanent set of topic at the top this forum, you can choose your model and year and download all the manuals for your car For a 2009 car you choose 2008/11 which gives you this: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Detail?model=Octavia_1Z&edition=11-2008&market=&manualLang=en Download from the above link.

From memory of another post (and I may be wrong as it could be a Mk1), you need to turn it 90 degrees to the right (or left) from normal position, push it into the clip then turn to normal position to lock.

I would start by looking at the earth for the rear lights which is a stud on the body in the boot on the near side. Corrosion caused by screen wash or water in the boot area is not unknown. If that is not the cause I would take out the left rear light cluster and check for poor connection in all parts - bulb connectors, wiring connectors, earth connections and for corrosion/dirty contacts. Dim lights is usually caused by a bad earth connection. What happens to the dim lights when someone activates the brake lights on and off? If it changes in any way suspect an earthing issue. Finally, check the solder pip on the end of the bulbs for reduction in size caused by fretting. Either build up the solder again or replace the bulb.

Your right, there isn't one.

This question has been asked before a few times. The solution is to run a wire from a spare ignition live fuse location (or use a piggy back on an existing fuse) in the end of dashboard fuse box then up the A pillar. Then follow the other wires at the edge of the roof (or over the headlining) and then again follow the other wires down the rear quarter panel to a suitable point near your camera. I guess you could also find a suitable floor route. The rear socket is permanently live on later model and has a larger current rating. Others have a switched live supply and lower rating. Just depends on your model.

They are probably just product identification markings, in the same way that coloured paint markings are used on suspension springs.

Just for reference as the I am not sure the question has been answered, the 1.6Tdi has a Common Rail engine with engine code CAYC.

Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter - 1) at the battery with the ignition off, 2) again with the ignition on, and then repeat 2) at some other point in the car such as the aux power socket [also called the cigar lighter socket]. The flashing display etc occurs when the battery voltage is below 11V. Could be your new battery needs a charge.

I use a cheap ELM diagnostic interface (WiFi) connected to an iPad running Carista to find out which bulb is causing the problem. Never fails.

Also happens with the DRL bulbs. They are a special bulb to resist vibrations breaking the filament, but my experience is that the solder contact pip on the end of the bulb is fretted away by vibration. Result is that as it wears away it makes intermittent contact, resulting in random self fixing warnings of bulb failure. I posted a photo of a fretted bulb in a thread about three years ago. if this your problem, fix it by adding more solder to the end of the bulb. Mine is still working fine but I did both sides while I was at it.

To Ken and my fellow ebiker, the answer is the power of the internet. I copied a comment from an ODB2 codes site https://www.obd-codes.com/p0301 Beware the American internet experts who look knowledgeable.

The first two are misfiring on cylinder 1. The last code shows there is multiple misfiring causing the ECU to shut down fuelling to the faulty cylinder in order to avoid damage to the catalytic converter and or DPF. A quick check on line says "check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors. My guess is that it is a failing coil pack. Get an independent check on the catalytic converter too as it is still under warranty.

And remember to re-align the four segments of the central pin of the socket before trying again (or replace the unit).

A single flick of the stalk only does a continuous intermittent single wipe; i.e. 1 wipe, long pause another wipe another pause and then continues ad nausium. You only get 3/4 wipes if you press and hold the stalk to switch on the washer motor, followed by the above pattern. In your case it suggests that the washer requested (hold the washer switch on for a few seconds) is not being recognised. It is not unknown for stalk switches (on both stalks) to fail through dirty contacts. Do a search on the forum for cleaning stalk switches. Edit Further thought: as yours is an early model it may have the software used on the Mk1 Octavia. This has no repeat function and each single wipe requires a flick of the stalk as you described. Washer function was still the same press and hold.

The throttle pedal is "fly by wire". Although the pedal position sensor has been known to fail, I would first check the connection at the pedal sensor for a loose/dirty connector.

I tried to find my posts on plastic mesh but it seems the links and photos no longer work. So I took a photo. It shows a view through the lower grill. You can see the unobtrusive small black tie wraps used to hold the mesh in place and on the right and lower part of the photo you can the mesh size. It lets through about 90% of the air. No need to add protection to the top grill as stones rarely reach the condenser. The lower part is the same now as when I installed it at ~30k miles ago; and no bent fins! I believe the mesh net was sold for outdoor fish pond or garden use but I could not find the one I used. However, I was surprised how many people sell protector net for car condensers now- including Skoda. I would not buy the Skoda one as it sits tight up against the fins and I am not sure it would work with the bits of concrete I initially found. Do a search

While your at it, consider putting mesh over the air input slats to stop stones hitting the condenser. When I did mine I found many small stones and bigger bits of concrete on the top of the bumper below the condenser. Full details with photos and link to mesh were in many posts around 2015. When completed, you will not notice the mesh unless you look for it.