pikpilot

Welcome to the forum. Sorry I do not fully understand your post so I have re-punctuated and spelling corrected it above. Please excuse me if I have got the wrong intention. If all the windows work from their on-door switches but not from the master switch then the mostly likely cause is a failed master switch and you are not the first to have this problem. You can buy a new one on-line for about £17 or get one from a scrap merchant. There are posts on here of how to remove and replace the switches/door pull. Do a search on here. Here is your starter for 10 which will need further searches:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/317718-drivers-side-window-switches/?tab=comments#comment-3802439

Is the creaking inside or outside the car or both? If inside then look at the joints all the way from the steering shaft to the connection with the new rack. Could be that a joint or bolt is contacting plastic trim or similar.

The fuse diagram on the back of the dashboard end cover will be mostly right BUT it is a mirror image as it was created for LHD cars. I find the best way is to sit sideways on the drivers' seat holding the diagram above your right knee. Then glance between the diagram and the fuses while counting fuse locations from front to back. Headlight fuses may be in the fuse box by the battery.

Checked by myself and the garage, no sign of leaking brake fluid. This was my first thought too. Other possibility suggested on-line is the seals in the master cylinder were shot but no way to easily check without replacing it. Just got the car back from having the brake fluid changed. I notice now there is less movement on the pedal before it hardens up and starts to work. On heavy braking (car stationary) there is less sink but still the pedal falls below the level of the accelerator so I still have the engine fighting the brakes. Perhaps I need narrower shoes and feet!!

Brake fluid changed early December 2019. I have asked them to do another brake fluid change today. It is serviced by trusted local Skoda garage. Their only recommendation was to change the front disks and pads "as there is a lot of rust on the outer part the disks". I said no for now as the rust is outside the swept area of the pads. They checked the pads and disks as 20% worn in Dec 20. Due to lock down the car has only done 1600 miles since then. I see from the last brake fluid change invoice that they only added 1litre of fluid. Sounds a bit small? They have a special VAG machine for doing brake fluid changes.

My brakes work fine in normal town and country driving, easily able to stop even with harsh braking. With heavy sustained braking, the pedal moves beyond normal limits so much that my foot is pressing on the accelerator and brake pedals simultaneously. Total travel on the brake pedal is more than 50%. Anyone have any thoughts? Edit: I should have added that when I try pressing hard on the brake pedal with the car stationary and engine running, the pedal gradually moves down under constant brake pressure.

Mine cleared itself by just opening all the windows to allow it dry out so it is unlikely to be be your cause. On mine it also brought up many other warnings at the same time

Yes I did get the wrong way round. No excuses apart from memory and long time since I had a 1.9L. However, it is till worth ruling out the battery. The only time I have had the steering wheel light on was 1) end of life battery and 2) moisture on the wiring terminals of the convenience/comfort module. The second case can be ruled out here.

PD engine will not start (inhibited) if the cranking revs are too low. This requirement is removed for a hot start. The fact that you have the steering warning light up indicates that the battery voltage is too low. Easiest way to check your battery is to get someone to give you a jump start from their car battery with their engine running. If it starts, replace your battery.

I was expecting to see a sticker with 23R7 written on it which is for new ECU software plus an addition air flow straighter on the 1.6 CR engine (CAYC). A more positive way is to ask Skoda using their emissions check page. Enter your VIN in the box: http://skoda-recallactions.skoda-auto.com/en?s=D&cd=1&_gl=1*wm1nkt*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE2MzEzNTYwMTguQ2p3S0NBandwTU9JQmhCQUVpd0F5NU02WUgzUDUtbjlfazNobGlNRzdOWU1oZS1YRjBzcnVxTzRGQWJkNGJ4NmY5ZXlGQXFoSXNWWXdob0NORjBRQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE2MzEzNTYwMTguQ2p3S0NBandwTU9JQmhCQUVpd0F5NU02WUgzUDUtbjlfazNobGlNRzdOWU1oZS1YRjBzcnVxTzRGQWJkNGJ4NmY5ZXlGQXFoSXNWWXdob0NORjBRQXZEX0J3RQ..*GA4_ga*NTkxNWJiYmYtOTdkOS00NmYzLWFhYzEtNTFkOWZiMTEzYzBl*GA4_ga_MS0YW0TWZD*MTYzMTU3MDA5NC45LjAuMTYzMTU3MDA5NS42MA..&_ga=2.198624554.400689272.1631570095-893573748.1616681837&_gac=1.128715390.1631356018.CjwKCAjwpMOIBhBAEiwAy5M6YH3P5-n9_k3hliMG7NYMhe-XF0sruqO4FAbd4bx6f9eyFAqhIsVYwhoCNF0QAvD_BwE

Check it has NOT had the emissions fix. If there an extra sticker near the wheel well in the boot then it likely has.

Check that the boot open light appears on the display. If not, then the boot lock is not giving a boot open signal and the locking system will act as you described.

Glad you took my advice and it is now working.

If that is the Indian video then he overcomplicates and guesses.

The first line above says the ignition supply is intermittent The second line I suggest is because you have to move the contacts in the ignition switch barrel and the worn contacts won't remake. All of which points to needing a new ignition switch on the back of the barrel assembly. There are videos showing how to do this and, from memory, seems easy. Just found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYVjVhGVQ68

I had this problem and the dealer said you need to change the spring assembly which includes the little plastic bit on the end, referred to in the post above. I decided to try lubricating it with a spray lubricant. This fixed it for quite a while but it comes back in certain weather conditions. It is quite common and Skoda assured me that it is not a sign of impending failure so I now ignore it. If you spray a lubricant on there you will probably find access difficult. In my case it took another week before lubrication became effective and the clicking stopped, probably because a general spray takes a while to run down to the right place.

You can test the above by turning off the internal sensor by using the switch at the bottom of the door pillar on the driver's side. See handbook for details.

My 2012 car goes out of radio text when I turn off the engine.

I had a similar problem earlier this year after the car was stood unused during a period of nearly two weeks of rain. Several other people had reported similar random dash board warning lights. In all cases the clue was that the faults lights changed depending on what else was switched-on as shown in attached photos. I fixed mine by leaving all the windows open on the first sunny day. Likely to have been moisture condensation. No problems since then.

The key that was in a drawer will have lost its place in the sequence of codes. Use it to manually unlock the door then immediately use it to turn on the ignition. Then turn off the ignition and remove the key. This should have re-synchronised the remote.

Make search on here as a few years ago there was a report of no cooling on the passenger side being caused by low gas in the air con. As you have all the software tools perhaps there is clue there?

Using the Skoda manuals topic that is in the permanent set of topic at the top this forum, you can choose your model and year and download all the manuals for your car For a 2009 car you choose 2008/11 which gives you this: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Detail?model=Octavia_1Z&edition=11-2008&market=&manualLang=en Download from the above link.

From memory of another post (and I may be wrong as it could be a Mk1), you need to turn it 90 degrees to the right (or left) from normal position, push it into the clip then turn to normal position to lock.

I would start by looking at the earth for the rear lights which is a stud on the body in the boot on the near side. Corrosion caused by screen wash or water in the boot area is not unknown. If that is not the cause I would take out the left rear light cluster and check for poor connection in all parts - bulb connectors, wiring connectors, earth connections and for corrosion/dirty contacts. Dim lights is usually caused by a bad earth connection. What happens to the dim lights when someone activates the brake lights on and off? If it changes in any way suspect an earthing issue. Finally, check the solder pip on the end of the bulbs for reduction in size caused by fretting. Either build up the solder again or replace the bulb.

Your right, there isn't one.