Redboy

You have a timing chain not a belt. The misfiring is probably due to the cam tensioner failing, causing the timing to be out and possible top end damage. This depressing thread linked above will explain all, if your car has the same problem. Fingers crossed it’s a simple ignition fault.

Has the cam chain tensioner gone and caused it to jump a tooth? There's an extensive thread on this. Might be worth not using it until it's been checked unless you are mechanically competent and can do it yourself.

Skoda won’t replace corroded crappy wheel centre inserts, so I think the contract small print get out clauses reserving the right to change, might not let the omission of what will now be an optional extra. The early MkIII VRS had Front Assist as standard and then suddenly didn’t.

That’s about the same summer mpg for a 300hp TSI...

Rather than raising the springs, I expect the new Koni active dampers prioide a more controlled ride over poor surfaces and speed bumps.

Perhaps the battery needed a boost after being stood for some time and by driving it, the battery gained sufficient power to allow Stop/Start and the fault self-cleared. If it happens again despite regular use and your battery is healthy, Aldi are currently selling a basic OBDII device for £16.99, which could help you self diagnose any EML or simple faults. My 19 reg Superb battery needs to be topped up regularly with an Optimate trickle charger as its use is limited by lockdown.

I'd be more worried if I saw clouds of black smoke under heavy acceleration...unless it was a diesel.

TSR is just another toy. In 2022 all new cars sold in the UK and EU will have speed limiters, you might as well wait until then.

Thanks for the feedback. It was an annoying and quite an expensive repair.

Why is it a loss if you pay £16800 for it? You will still have a car you like, the huge plus is that you know the history of the car. WBAC is a business and simply trying to make a profit , i.e try to retail it for around £16K, as that's the going rate for avg mileage 3 year old VRS. A concern is that a new manual MkIV VRS can be bought for £26K and may drive down used MkIII values.

Good old capitalism, supply and demand. Joe Schmo can buy one, rag it then profit...but not the dealership which will be doing any warranty work.

As it will be imported in limited numbers, I wonder whether 'preloved' (barf) prices will be higher due to speculators.

There were some VRS which I think were sold by Motorpoint, from the EU, possibly, Cyprus, which had that or a similar non- Gemini style of wheel Ps. Nice change from Race Blue or grey

I would leave it in Drive as you have no way of taking effective avoiding action if you need to. As for the benefit of ECO mode, I rarely use it, after driving 280 miles driving like a saint, coasting a lot in ECO, anticipating stoppages and lifting off early. It gave a computer reading of 40 Mpg. It was boring. On the return journey I drove as normal, and lost 1 maybe 2 Mpg. Also if you lift off in Normal mode, the engine doesn't demand fuel. Savings can be made by intelligent driving and, if you can spare the time, by doing long journeys at non-peak times. Life really is too short too worry.

BLIS is excellent on dull motorway journeys to get your attention when being overtaken. ACC is very relaxing, the only 'irritation' when it decides to play safe as cars turn right for left and it slows when it's obviously safe to proceed. Additionally, if you approach a junction/roundabout with ACC activated and nothing in front of you, the ACC system will carry you right through the junction. Emergency auto braking whilst reversing slowly does work well, if you are inattentive. I haven't tried it out whilst going forwards but assume it will save an expensive and embarrassing dent.

It's the fake 'rorty' exhaust/engine sound, which came as standard in the Mk3 Octavia when put into Sport mode, which many owners disliked and switched off. It impresses people ... some people and then becomes a bit annoying. I had it on mine and a Golf GTI, which actually had a real burbling exhaust.

They’ll have a better chance of winning?

Good job you are persistent and have mechanical knowledge.... and presumably deep pockets. You must have wondered a times if the outlay in cash and effort was worth it.

Before you complain, rather than HBA, you probably have intelligent headlights, take it for a drive in the dark, and watch the beams reshape as oncoming traffic approaches. I keep mine on at all times and never have an issue

I assume your VCDS scan hasn't thrown up codes related to throttle input to the ECU? Perhaps the simplest option would be, reset your car to original, to see if it runs as it did prior to the remap and then go to another mapper. I am on my fourth 2.0 TFSI / TSI. One of the main attractions for me, is the way that these engines pull smoothly and strongly right up into the redline without hesitation.

Great result in warranty replacement and very interesting. My L&K is now 16 months old, I always disable stop -start shortly after I leave the driveway as I use it for rural 10 mile commutes and a weekly 20-40 mile trip. Short runs to the shops are done in the wife's 13 year old Sirion. I have never killed a battery and began to look after the Superb's battery by using an Optimizer trickle charger during the the 1st lockdown in March, 6 weeks after purchase. I was surprised to find the battery state in the red and needing to be'saved' rather than simply charged. I also do occasional checks and top ups in colder weather. I use the heated seats, screen and steering wheel but only with the engine running. Yet every time I hook up the Optimizer it has to save the battery usually 60% or under. My last VRS also had heated seats, front screen, stop start and was used for the exact same commute, yet the battery was never in the red. I can only think that the 1st driver at Skoda Mgmt, who ran it for 2500 miles and 6 months, did a lot of short stop start driving and possibly damaged the storage capacity. I don't think it was a pool car as it had child seat indentations on the rear seat base, which have now almost disappeared. Nothing was bought to my attention at its recent 1st service. Or I wonder if owners of other newish cars have found the same thing with their batteries.

Perhaps you should price up all your tyre and damper options then contact your insurers, to check for any possible premium change or even policy cancellation. My last VRS was mapped but only after I had changed insurers, as my old insurers policy had a automatic cancellation clause for mapping. As for tyre noise, comfort and handling, after 12 years of VRS and admittedly brief, GTI ownership , all with 40 profile 18 & 19 wheels, I can say that 18" 235 45 tyres combined with Superb in DCC comfort or normal mode gives a more relaxing ride, DCC sport mode stiffens up the handling enough for positive handling on twisting roads at sensible (legal) speeds. The tyres are also quieter but that could be due more soundproofing in the Superb, the GTI tyre roar on 19s was louder than the VRS.

A brand new car should be a pleasure, not a headache. There is a definite fault. Take it back and say fix it or exchange.

I imagine it's almost impossible to successfully claim for a clutch on a warranty after 6 months mapped or stock, the old wear and tear / corrosion clause is the usual get out of jail free for the company

HUD is just a gimmick. Why don’t you sit in a VRS and listen to the stereo with a variety of iTunes before deciding upon upgrading? If it doesn’t come with ACC and dimmining door mirrors I think those are good choices. Heated screen and steering wheel have been great for the last 8 weeks.