MoggyTech

Looks OK to me, can't see any obvious damage to the wiring.

They phoned me yesterday to book my 16 plate 1.4Tsi in for service and MOT. Told them I no longer own the vehicle and had switched brands. "May I ask why." "Sure VAG group treat customers with contempt, and the last time you had my car,, the filler and drain caps for aircon service were left on the windscreen scuttle, the paperwork for the service was wrong, and there was an error on the MOT paperwork as well. One week out of warranty the dreaded "Only leave vehicle when selector is in Park" message popped up several times. "Never heard of it." Dieselgate dented my confidence in VAG, and rather than move towards greater customer satisfaction, they just decided to try and claw the fines back by screwing over their customers.

Very sad news. One of my all time great drummers. RIP Neil Peart.

10 to 1 odds, cruise missile sales will increase within 24 hours.

Could be aircon compressor, it's driven by the engine, so while the heater blower will run with engine stopped the aircon doesn't.

Assuming the door storage area is empty, try it with the window down, if the noise goes away, probably window regulator getting ready to break. Also try it with the seat belt done up, e.g. fastened into the buckle holder, B pillar trim rattles are common.

Well that's one way to avoid the dreaded "Only leave vehicle while lever is in park" message.

^^^ This, and a compression test as well. These engines are also known for 'head lift' under high loads.

The cable operates a mechanism that controls the parking pawl, there is very little actual force on the bowden cable. Just follow the correct procedure. Apply footbrake, and keep it pressed, apply handbrake, then put shift lever into park.

The way VAG conducts business it would not surprise me.

You are doing it right. Thing is, the handbrake and gearbox locking device on these cars can and do fail. The handbrake button can fly out releasing the handbrake in the process. The DSG park selector cable can stretch so the pawl release pin fails to engage the transmission lock. Simply put, crap design.

I think the value you are seeing is calculated by the Bms module. A 12v car battery typically has an internal resistance of 0.02 Ohms.

There is no actual AC clutch, it's just a shear plate in case the compressor seizes. The compressor runs all the time, but at a greatly reduced pressure when AC is off. It's a tilt plate design with pressure solenoid and valve. Best to have an AC specialist take a look.

Check the bottom gearbox mounting (looks like a dogs bone) Also is it manual or DSG gearbox?

Airlock for sure, cycle the heater a few times between hot and cold.

Battery will need a maintenance charge from a quality charger that can handle AGM and EFB battery types. Be sure to use the bulkhead negative point for the negative charger lead. Do NOT use the battery negative terminal or you can damage the battery control module.

Main battery low state of charge. Charging system is pants in an effort to save fuel the alternator hardly gets used. You need a quality battery charger capable of doing AGM and EFB batteries. I had to do maintenance cycle on my Octavia battery once a month (lots of short trips.) The state of charge has to be about 80% (soc display) for stop start to work. My Octavia was ex demo and the battery never recovered fully from low soc due to sitting for a few months at the dealers forecourt. Never got round to fitting a new battery, just got sick of the car and sold it.

Plus the satisfaction that the job was done properly.

Horrific crash, very sad indeed.

Light misting is normal, some oil in the damper is used to lubricate the seal. Advisory could be one of three reasons. 1: Mechanic doesn't know it's normal 2: Covering their ass 3: Trying to make extra money

The company I bought them from said they don’t fit my vin number. So why did they sell them to you?

With those voltages the battery is goosed for sure. Murphys law states the battery will fail at the most inconvenient time. You will also be running at full alternator load all the time = slightly reduced MPG.

I would suggest the following to Skoda 1: Safety critical component for exiting vehicle in an emergency. 2: if Skoda claim it's wear and tear, then the part is not fit for purpose. 3: if Skoda claim it's due to abuse, then again, the part is not fit for purpose. I know how hard i would pull that handle if exiting a vehicle fire. Tell them to replace it under warranty, or would they prefer to deal with a world wide safety recall.

I'm surprised no one has considered the dual mass flywheel. a cluck at low speeds when applying and releasing power via the throttle is a classic DMF end stop clatter symptom. At higher mileages there will also be a high build up of clutch material (dry clutch type only), in wet clutch DSG the clutch crud will be mixed in with the gearbox oil. Fault finding for this is simple mechanic stuff. 1: Scan for fault codes just in case 2: Check engine mounts, including the dogbone mount. 3: Check driveshafts and CV joints for excessive play. 4: check suspension for general wear 5: Remove starter motor and check for excessive backlash on the dual mass flywheel.

That's disgraceful. Given the over inflated price of their 'magical' does not damage motors washer fluid, perhaps they get the water from ice geysers on Saturn. Yet another example of VAG stamping on customers,