MoggyTech

The ioniq prices start at just under 20K for the base spec hybrid, rising to 23K for top of the range hybrid. (Way more toys that any Octavia) The plug in version starts at 26K and the full EV is just over 30K Oddly the full EV has to use torsion beam rear suspension due to the battery pack size, but the lower range models all have independent multi link rear suspension. The Octavia range is cheaper, but anything that uses Lithium Ion battery packs is going to hike the price a fair bit.

The failure is due to what VW call silicate build up in the micro-switch for the park position. So basically corrosion, that causes a resistance that confuses the mechatronics unit and or ECU. The ECU will be expecting either a fully open or dead short from the switch depending on the gear selector position. i'm not sure if the switch signal path goes through the can-bus, but in any case, any deviation from the expected voltage (switch position dependant) will confuse the control modules, thus causing the error. I used to see this kind of fault when I serviced video recorders, that used a mode select switch to determine the position of the mechanical parts (play, stop, record, fast forward etc.) Of course the switch could be got at and replaced, unlike all this modular nonsense crammed into cars these days.

Oh don't worry mate, it will get the full review after the extended test drive on Sunday.

The Ioniq is available in three configurations, Hybrid, Plug in Hybrid, or full EV. It's getting great independent reviews for all three types. I also like the looks, modern without going all Picasso like Toyota did.

Congrats on the new motor, looks cracking. I too am defecting but to a Hyundai Ioniq 1.6 GDi hybrid. Don't need speed at my age, but 70+ MPG is cool.

I got this error today, but I'm trading in the Octavia, as I am sick to the back teeth of how VAG are treating customers. How it can take them two years from the first Technical Service Bulletin about this issue, to come up with a revised part in late 2019 is beyond me. The TSB even states "This is a tech tip, not a technical bulletin as titled." "Tech tips are not associated with warranty claims." Translation "Yes, it's a well known issue but for Gods sake don't tell the customer that." Even if we accept it's a technical tip only, it means they know about the issue, and to say they don't is a simple lie. To those who have had the gear selector replaced, only to get the fault again soon after, it could simply be chaffed or pinched wires leading to the steering column. If it is the selector that's at fault, it's a 10 pence switch but it can't be replaced as the selector is a modular part, so £700 + 5 hours labour thank you.

Well after 12 years of owning a Skoda I've decided to defect to Hyundai (New Ioniq 1.6 GDi Hybrid Premium.) I've owned an Octavia MK3 1.4 TSi DSG for three years and it's been a great car, until the dreaded auto shifter error message started popping up ("Error workshop, only leave vehicle when in Park") Skoda say they haven't heard of this issue, yet I have a VAG TSB document in my hand, about this very issue, and it effects VW/Audi/Skoda/SEAT models, so another clear case of VAG not giving a hoot about their customers. I was going to replace the car this year anyway, and I do think the Octavia is an excellent family car, but the new 1.5ACT engine is a dog IMHO. All due to emission standards of course. I will miss the excellent acceleration of the 1.4TSi coupled with the 7 speed DSG, but I'm getting old and tend to drive like a pensioner these days anyway. So what will I gain from the new car. Multi link rear suspension (Yay!) 70+ MPG all LED lights (except headlights which are BiXenon) and back to my favourite colour of white. The big plus for me, is the five year warranty, battery pack is guaranteed for the life of the car or 150,000 miles. Bodywork 12 years corrosion warranty. Skoda Local dealer standards have slipped over the past few years. Missing filler caps on aircon after a full service, dirt in fresh brake fluid, incorrect paperwork to name but a few. Oh and the lead time for the new car, two weeks. I will stay in touch here, as your a great crowd, but for now Adios Amigos.

What you are hearing is most likely the control modules shutting down. There's an electric water pump for cooling the turbo and the control module makes a high pitched series of pulses as it shut down. There is also a fuel return cycle to return fuel to the tank, and it makes some noise,

The OP was asking about after shut down noise. What your hearing is fuel pump priming.

It's the pump for cooling the turbo after shut down.

£920 out of warranty,, and if the unit fails you cannot lock the car.

Coil packs tend to fail and cause a dead cylinder, However, the coil pack boots can crack and then you do get misfires. The VCDS evidence suggest coil pack 3 and 2 are faulty, and were probably swapped to different cylinders when the plugs were replaced. The packs are also notoriously hard to remove even with the correct tool. I would remove them (using proper tool) and inspect the packs for signs of damage. Replacing them all is the safest (if not the cheapest) option.

Not what you want to hear I'm sure, but don't use a car cover. Even the expensive ones move when it's windy, and it will, over time, put swirls in the paint clear coat. If you must use a cover, these guys are good. https://www.carscovers.co.uk/?kw=car covers&fl=547191&ci=171005562688&network=s&gclid=CjwKCAjwzPXlBRAjEiwAj_XTEZc1FPE7QC2W-l6gxWRGdIHwvyFbXQuEsB6Unx857fzy6quklY5-UxoC6NsQAvD_BwE

Most likely the new regs require these setting to be 'locked' bytes in the firmware. The firmware will be locked by a checksum. So be careful not to 'brick' your cars electronics.

Pretty sure you accidentally hit the right hand scroll wheel on the steering wheel. That display is just the actual oil temp, and 90 is normal. You can select what information is displayed on the maxidot, using the infotainment screen.

Sounds like air in the system after brake fluid changed. The clutch shares the same fluid as the brakes, but on a different circuit. If the new clutch was fine before the brake fluid change, and now it's giving problems, evidence suggests the fluid change is the culprit.

So more than likely disc run-out. Begs the question why won't the garage do the check?

Top tip, if you want Xenons or LED or whatever, buy a car that has them fitted at factory. If you can't see with halogens, see an optician.

If something was bouncing around inside a DSG gearbox, believe me the car wouldn't be moving. The warning message relates to the selector mechanism (known issue) and has nothing to do with the noise. Look at the evidence, the noise is there with car stationary, and it happens on engine over-run when you release the throttle. Over-run is the condition that put's most strain on the engine and the bits that turn with it. Any additional noises when going over speed bumps, rough roads etc, will be down to suspension or gearbox rear mounting. A quick spray with PTFE based white grease soon sorts that out. As for the Insignia, boy were you lucky.

Well the garage need to do a run-out test, as it's one of the first things checked for unexplained brake judder. Simple enough, remove wheel, fit dial gauge to strut, probe touches disc, disc rotated and measurement taken, it's not rocket science. Other more exotic causes can be, partially clogged flexible brake line, causing ABS valves to modulate even under normal braking.

Yeh safe to drive.

Sound very like the Aux V belt tensioner. Or the V belt might need replacing.

You need to get the ash level of the DPF checked. Regens can't burn off ash only soot. Regens are done roughly every 400 miles, or when the back pressure sensor after the DPF detects poor exhaust flow. At this stage I doubt cleaner will do anything, other than add to the impending cost of a new DPF.

Sounds like an exhaust problem to me, possibly loose baffles. Or the exhaust system was modified by previous owner.

The only way I've been able to get reliable start/stop, is by trickle charging the battery once a week. Got so sick of it I turned it off for good. I think it's to do with the way the car saves fuel, by only running the alternator at full output during over run or braking. If your cruising the alternator clutch disengages to save fuel. The battery control module will also likely look at what is using power from known modules. If it detects a higher than expected current draw, the system throws a wobbly.