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I have heard others also say shove your hand up inside the cabin filter aperture, when you have the filter out, to feel for debris trapped up in there. try to rotate the fan if you can reach it. The official method of changing the fan is by removing the whole dashboard as it is supposedly one complete unit. This along with a new fan, can be quite costly, depending on the version of fan or a/c you have. I had a climatronic fan replaced some years ago at a cost of around £400, I think it was. The few mins driving away from the service place, on a hot summers day, (You might remember that one) with nice, cold, blowing air, I said to myself, "Worth every penny"! I just re-read this and you say number 4 is "Too cold". Can you not turn the temperature up a little, along with the fan being on a bit too fast, at least temporarily? Did you buy a genuine part or was it an eBay/aliexpress version? Often these are a great way of saving cash but almost always will never outlast a genuine part. Buy cheap, buy often. That said, it SHOULD last at least a year or so. If ebay, complain... I have had many items over the year replaced or refunded due to failing/not being good enough on the bay but on aliexpress, I have never had a refund/replacement successfully! That does not mean I would not buy there but eBay will intervene if a seller fobs you off. Also, you said it was "Replaced". If done by a dealership/garage, they will also be liable for their work and parts, unless they can prove an underlying fault.

Perhaps when it overheats, the fuse becomes dislodged, breaks contact then cools down, re-makes contact and the cycle starts again. This can happen on electrical with weak joints, soldering, etc. I this k the term is a "Dry joint". Worth a check. Have a gander at the fuse as soon as the blower stops and perhaps wiggle it a little or even fit a new fuse in, just in case the old one is a bit "Iffy".

I have no knowledge of this so hope someone else can help you but in the meantime, make sure you have a good, strong, healthy battery. They hate duff, old, worn ones!

Hi, not sure if you posted this on the correct site as you are listed as having an Octavia and this is the Fabia 2 site but I think you are right it looks distinctly odd. I would hold fire until sone one smarter then me comes along! It looks like a sort of gudgeon pin is out of canter.

.Hi, to follow this..Is this answer, the same for a MK2 Fabia, or are they removable carriers? I have what is marked as FS111 callipers.

You might be lucky and be able to do that with one of the cheap, generic code readers rather then vcds. Some things are easy, others more tricky.

...I have the occasional abs light come on (Coding said rear left) and swapped the sensor twice, with genuine new ones. Temp solution but issue returns. I spoke to a guy I know (Mechanic) And he said a similar thing... If not the actual sensor, then most likely a wheel bearing. The wheel bearing/reluctor ring in these is combined. The pita of this is he also said upon fitting a new bearing, a new sensor SHOULD be fitted, too! I said I had a very, very new one fitted but he said after fitting the bearing, start with a new sensor. (Penny wise-pound foolish, was his mantra).

Hi Geof. It sounds like you sort of closed the lock/latch mechanism, with the door open? So then, it would not close due to the latch being in the way. Or was it the complete opposite?

Thule also provide racks for Halfords so they might be slightly different but cheaper. I am unsure if they make the genuine ones, too. There has been a roof box advertised here on Briskoda that may well foot the bill, with regards to a box.

There has been issues of fan's running when the car is turned off, where it simply does not stop hence a flat battery. You will know either within minutes if yours does not stop or at least, the following day, when you try to start the car!

I guess the way to look at it is that they are necessary, due to trolly-shunting nutters!

I can't be 100% but I did notice something recently stated that Skoda amended their cam belt change interval to 40,000 miles. In reality, one cam belt might snap by then, another go on and do 240,000 miles! I would have thought if changed at that short interval, the water pump ought to have been fine for at least two belts but often, the advice is to change them during a belt change as the additional cost of parts is negligible, compared to labour and labour for both jobs is more or less identical. Many manufacturers used to say cam belts change at 100,000 miles, but Haynes and many mechanics advised halving that. I think the big issue is due to MOT tests getting tougher and engines (Particularly diesel) Get revved hard, to check emissions. A belt snapped during an MOT will not be accepted as damage by the tester but bad luck to you! I was also told, personally, cam belts on the average well driven cars should be fine but drive hard and give the vehicle a hard life and you will wear one out much, much quicker. Given the boy-racer nature of some vehicles, its hardly surprising manufacturers lower the expected life of any given belt, whilst modern vehicles should, theoretically, last longer and cover many more miles then cars of old!

...Have you also checked (Or had them check) The fluid level? Often gets overlooked as you need to remove the battery on most variants, to get to the pump cover and check the level. Additionally, these cars are quite prone to having faults develop if the battery is weak so be sure to have a healthy, well charged strong unit.

I don't see why not, if it goes off again now and then and after turning off the ignition. (Perhaps with a short delay to going off).

AmusedMussel, I think they actually look nicer on, then off. They for the black/green scheme nicely and break up a quite long door hight. (This is why they add the black door pillars to many cars- so as to make the roofline appar not so high. A kind of optical illusion, if you will). Have a look at the earlier two piccies, as a kind of before and after... You will still be left with the door line anyway, albeit a little less prominent. Add that tp the protection they may just give and keeping them on is a no-brainer!

Have a little look inside the door bellows for broken wiring. Costs nothing, may be the issue.

If it was the one from Chico's, Plymouth, Autotrader says it was a great price. Higher then average miles but a good deal. I am sure you will get feedback regarding the engine etc. Be aware, many Skoda (VW branded cars) Are very unhappy with incorrect spec oil and do not go over the oil change schedule. Generally, the Fabia is a great little car.

It goes into safe mode, checks its own code and if its all ok, it re starts. It will only give a problem if you have the wrong unit. The code is actually stored somewhere inside the unit anyway but main dealers can give it to you, on proof of ownership of the vehicle. They are not meant to charge for this but I have heard some try! It will mean going to them, with all the appropriate documentation.

My ten year old Dance unit has never had issues but perhaps I got lucky! Do any other lights come on on the dash? I did just remember a strange thing, where if you clean the dash pop with a rag, whilst the ignition is on, it makes the dash lights and stuff go off. It looks/sounds like you have blown a fuse and will not come back on until you disconnect the battery for a bit, then put it back on again. Its almost like a fail-safe! I am unsure if it stopped the audio too. I only had it happen twice and found out how to fix it by trial and error. Had it do it again and remembered what to do.

We have a few stupidly designed junctions here in the big smoke... Often you will get some way across the junction or mid junction, to turn right, say and then find the lights change again, with new white lines on the exit side, meaning you MUST stop again. You may well be mid way but as its a new white line, stopping is the rule. You then block the road you were coming through and vehicles now getting a green light, will be driving up to you and getting stuck. So the cycle continues. In theory, it should all flow fine but in heavy traffic, its tricky and all it takes is one pedestrian to cross at the red man sign, one cyclist to go at a red cycle light (Yep-they have those) Or someone jumping the lights, preventing the natural flow of traffic from exiting safely and it all goes up the poop-tunnel! The problem is, drivers are expected to know the rules, despite often having a completely new set up (Ok, natural progression, continual development, etc) but cycles and pedestrians basically, never have a clue or simply don't care one way or another. Then, with such a mixed community of drivers from massively diverse backgrounds, many just simply drive the way they would, "back home". (This is the term I hear frequently, by drivers of many ages and backgrounds, as a driving instructor). So, the new stylee of modern junctions should work great and it would, if not for people trying to use it! BTW, that overlay actually looks quite good. Study it for a while and it all makes sense. However, people will fudge it all up! P.S. Is that actually a model or a real junction? It looks a little too clean to be real. 79 Mil, could be much better spent, TELLING road users not to go against the flow/lights/etc or they will lose their licence/life and/or perhaps face massive payouts/claims against them. Make people responsible for their own actions, I say!

It does sound like you have blown a fuse, perhaps. I am unsure if there are any fuses actually on the stereo unit itself but that used to be quite a common thing. You think you blow a fuse, cant find it, only to realise it is either mounted on or in the unit or an inline one, on the live wire.

Bizarrely, they have fitted them slightly high there... They are normally fitted just above the door crease-line-thingy! This makes the change in door skin level almost impossible to notice, whilst there, it is quite clear. (I have always disliked that door line shape). The trim also prevents the whole door looking so "Slabby" and bland.

You are either gonna be looking at a second hand one from a scrappy, get lucky and have someone here offer you one or the main dealer. I would suggest trying the main dealer for price, though as often enough, they are actually cheaper then scrap-yards. Ebay may well be an option, too but you may find someone only wants to sell the complete kit.

Groupon recently had a voucher for ATS to do a regas, for £39.