mrgf

Luke, it sounds as though you are not too sure about this work... I would suggest getting it looked at and replaced if needed, by a halfway decent garage. It won't be THAT expensive and is it is the bearing, it will want doing sooner or later.

Same as I get occasionally. I thought I cured it but after driving through heavy flooding, it came back. Its a bit intermittent. I have heard of faulty plugs and you can buy replacement ones but I think you have to then hack in to the wiring somewhere.The most likely place being under the rear seat area, where the sensors wire comes though the underside of the vehicle. (I would not like to cut/join/splice any wiring under the car as it may make it less waterproof). Other then that, my guess is you need to swap out an entire length of ABS wiring loom, from rear wheel to ABS pump, or something. I don't suppose that will be simple. i have heard suggestion that the rear wheel bearing could be worn so if there is any sign of that, replace it as a precaution and then, the ABS pump/module could be the fault. Over a grand, new but can be rebuilt for around £180. If they rebuild your one one, it won't need recoding, so I am told, otherwise any replaced one will need this, to work properly. Fingers crossed you solve this!

Just so you know, carports4less charge just £6.35 for an expansion bottle to fit a Fabia and many other VW branded vehicles...This IS with the discount code applied. Eurocarparts are around £8, plus but might be easier to source a branch.

Well, you live and learn... This method only changes the trip functions, etc on MY car. To do the service indicator, you need to turn the clock adjust switch-thingy, hold, turn on ignition, etc but can't quite remember the whole routine though I need to do it again soon!

...All it needs now is the old style, black numberplate, with silver letters/numbers! Oh, and a set of Heko's.

As you got that far, found the loose part etc, taking it out, cleaning it up a little and assessing how to refit it seems the only option. (As Skomaz said). Again, if you can't fix it, push it on as much as you can and bit by bit, wind some GOOD quality duck tape (Or duct tape, etc). Don't be tempted to flip on cheap pound store rolls as the glue will almost certainly soften over a short space of time. The better the tape, the better the job will be. It IS gonna be a bodge but wrap a little, then build it up until either you can't detect a leak or you can't fit more tape on and cross those fingers and operate the wash/wipe. It may just get you going for a while and some bodges last an eon! You will know if and when it leaks again.

I don't want to muddy the waters here but I think he/she may mean reseting the maintanance/service counter, rather then the trip meter.

The hoses will connect at the pump and may be one or two connections (Front and rear wiper may have separate ones). If as you say, its near the wheel, it sounds as though its either come off or partly come off, from th pump. The message murdockman left will help there. There is also a joint where the pipe goes in to two, underneath the plastic scuttle or bulkhead, and then into the jets. This can come apart, too and a new bit is only a few quid. If you cannot get it sorted, my advise will be to thoroughly clean the windscreen, both front and back, along with the wipers and keep calm. If the wipers are all functioning correctly, and if the rear wash/wipe works, at least you know its only the pipework to the front. There is a fairly small chance the examiner will ask you to wash and wipe the front screen and this is more likely, if it looks dirty to start with. If some fluid still comes out of the jets, and you can still use the function, the examiner should be ok with that. They may well ask you a different show/tell question as it may be opening/closing a window, operating heated front/rear screen, etc so its just a lucky dip, there. If they ask for it and you know the rears work, do them and if they still want the fronts done, do them but stay focussed on the driving, not if there is a good supply of fluid. The idea is to see you know the functions of the car, not that you can clean them time after time, like driving in general. Additionally, if you fail to answer one/ both of either the show or tell part of the questions you will only receive a minor fault, anyway. So it cannot in itself, fail you but can potentially put you over the 15 minor faults, zone. This ar any one serious/dangerous fault, will then be a fail. Under 15 and no serious/dangerous will be a pass. once the examiner is happy the car is fit for test, (Tyres, lights, etc, look ok, L-plates fitted, headrest for the examiner, along with a mirror for him/her to use,( like your drivers interior one) then you will already be en route, so to speak anyway so finding no fluid is unlikely to affect the outcome. If the screen is clean or if its rainy anyway, all should hopefully be ok. I cannot promise this but I have been driving for centuries and instructing for 14 years.

I stick to the oil changes and correct oil. Changing more frequently is just wasted money but don't go over! I am a driving instructor and think the clutches on these do suffer somewhat. They tend to burn fairly easily if ridden a little.

Probably a loose connection but otherwise might be a split pipe. There is a repair kit that can re-join broken pipes but to do your MOT, perhaps wrap it with duck tape for a temporary repair.

I had clutch noise when idling, went away on pressing clutch, sometimes came back on release in neutral, sometimes didn't. OK when driving but clutch started to slip going up hills in higher gear and eventually slipped more often. On renewal of the clutch, both the slipping of the clutch and the rattle went away so the rattle was rectified when the new clutch kit was installed. Be sure to get the whole kit and not just clutch plates! Of course, your issue may be totally unrelated and if it is clutch parts, you could go on for ages or you could just have it fail. I would think the former to be most likely, with slow increase in wear. I think it MAY be possible to increase the revs but it will almost certainly have to be done by computer, via the OBD port. BTW, as you mention only having had the car recently, do be sure to stick to the oil change schedule like a limpet and use the proper grade of oil. Brand will be irrelevant but it needs the correct grade for the VW specs.

I had a bit about this a year or so ago where I found a decent rethreading kit for about £15. The same type of kit can go for ten times that amount as they will charge what they think they can get away with and to answer the question, yes, it will pass an MOT. Look up the listing below, on ebay. Fairly easy to use, if you can use spanners, jacks and drills. This is the same kit but a little dearer by a fiver. brake caliper guide thread repair kit M9 x 1.25 VAUXHALL(OPEL) VAG FORD UK

...I did that once, with an indicator bulb. I was swapping the orange blobs, for silvered bulbs and managed to drop one inside the light unit. Took a bit of coaxing to get it back out again! 😏

Although I have not got DRL's on my car, I have fitted many LED bulbs in it, over time, from sidelights, numberplate lights, to headlights and fogs, too. Generally,if they are not going in to a one way fitting, they will only work one way so if they don't work one way, twist them half a turn and try again. Of course, if the bulbs you are replacing have staggered bayonet type fittings, this won't work.

It should be the upper, black bit seen in the pictures. Where the edges are flat, hold the bit under the gaiter (You can see a kind of join) and twist either clock or counter clockwise and it should sort of "click" like a bayonet fitting lightbulb. Then it should just slide off. If someone has fitted a cheap copy, the black twisty bit might just be one solid lump, copied from genuine bits. The gaiter and knob are classed as one unit and sold by Skoda, as such.

Can you actually drive it, without revving? Just start, pop in gear, find bite and move off?

As an aside, I am guessing you may be a driving instructor? If so, how do you find the Fabia?

I usually use one of those pick tools you can buy in packs of four, to help grip the side of the plastic and coax it out. Don't do it just by the wires though as you might just cut them. The very first time the bulb is removed, it is quite hard due to its tightness. As mentioned above though, its just a pull.

I think that will almost certainly be your starting point, anyway... It sounds like the linkage has either drifted apart or broken, somehow and removing the seat will be the most likely way of looking closely at the issue. As its quite an early model and may have had lots of cranking done, it might be just as easy to source a replacement seat, providing you can find the matching upholstery. This might prove easier than stripping down and repairing the seat, unless its an obvious simple disconnection and you may find a seat from a car that has covered less miles and be in better condition. (I am taking a punt here, based on the age, but much later will most likely be different seat covers).

Interior light as far as I know, only comes on when at least the side lights are on. (May be different if drl's are on). If you had an auto switch, the first click right, from the off (o) Position, should have set the auto lights which then only come on in the dark/dimly lit area and also in tunnels. The MOT guy may not have noticed that! If they have not light true to it being light, the interior dash lights, the numberplate ones, etc will not light either. It takes the second click right, of the switch, to put sidelights n, then all should light up. The third click will put dipped beam on, along with the dipped beam light on the dash, which won't come on with just sidelights. Flick the left stalk to high, the beams go high and the blue light comes on too. It sounds strange that there is an issue with bOTH switches so was the original one faulty in the first place? Do you have a genuine auto switch or some sort of cheap copy? I have noticed on my VAG scan/code tool, there is a section regarding auto lights so wonder if your model required coding, in order to function correctly. This may be more likely if you have maxi dot as they tend to have more functions and if you have original VW switches as they may be more technical then cheap Chinese copies, that may be designed to "Plug and play" as often quoted.

Most likely normal... As you say the clutch does not slip, it is just a case of getting used to it. To be sure about slip though, drive up a hill at a set speed, put the car in a higher gear and then try to accelerate quickly, in the higher gear. it will either pick p slowly or the engine will rev, with little increase in speed. Eventually, the car will pick up but you will know for sure the clutch is on its way out and if careful, you could drive for ages like that!

I am guessing the OP stripped out the dash as they stated they "Don't really want to strip out the dash again".

At least you get the lovely Cornish scenery, to go with the potholes... Here in Lonfon, we get ar5eholes and potholes! I do love Cornwall.

...It appears to have dried out now and not coming on again... Hope it stays that way. My guess is just short circuit due to water ingress.

...Another possibility is a previous owner fitted an aftermarket airbag and tried to re-fit the old one, when selling the car to return it to "Stock" And sell the custom airbox. Lost the other bit bit though no-one would care. Chrismawa, Often, the covers vibrate as the little rubber bungs get loose but they are cheap to replace and the plastic, if intact, should help quieten the engine a little. I say intact as often, the foam insulation deteriorates with age. I re-fitted mine with under bonnet insulation. Much nicer. Modern engines tend to look so ugly without the cover as the manufacturer hides all the pipework underneath. A little like sports bikes hide uglier engines under the plastics, where "Naked" bikes tend to have slightly tidier lumps. That engine cover may also help prevent too much heat from frying your bonnets paintwork!