PetrolDave

But it was the question that @Gammyleg asked 👍 I can only find a maximum of 3000 candela, nothing I can easily find about a minimum.

Yes, on all cars and light good vehicles type approved after 2011.

They're LED strips that are part of the headlamp, so the only way to replace them is buy a new headlamp £££. Given that the average lifetime of an LED when illuminated is 50,000 hours i.e. about 5 years 9 months that's an awful lot of driving. I agree LED lifetime is not extended by reducing their duty cycle as the heat generated is so minimal.

You need to change the Dimmwert value in the Leuchte channels that control the DRLs in the BCM.

I would stick with the 90V load and speed rating, personally I'll be changing to All Season tyres when my current set need changing (which will be soon).

In response to an Ofcom consultation Cubic Telecom included in their reply that they are an MVNO on the BT/EE network.

Varta is not an OE supplier so the battery has been changed, when it was changed was the car's battery management system recoded? Do you have any obvious extra electrical devices such as a dash cam, cool box, etc.? Failing that something is not turning off when it should, and the best way to get more clues is a fault code scan with e.g. VCDS or OBDeleven.

If the voltage is really that high then somerhing is SERIOUSLY wrong, the voltage should never be above about 15V!!! Sounds like your alternator regulator is not regulating, get it looked at and fixed ASAP before some serious damage is caused - and be prepared to need a new battery if this one has "boiled".

SSP511 abut the EA211 engine might be interesting/helpful?, especially page 36 about the cooling system?

After even a long weekend parked up outside both the front and rear discs on my Octavia 3 have a noticeable rusty film on them, more so this year as it has been wetter than usual.

Exactly what model Octavia do you have - engine size, is it hybrid? Why doesn't start/stop turn off the engine when you are stopped?

Here's an actual example from a petrol car I used to own - used it for urban commuting all week (lots of slow stop/start traffic) and filled up with petrol on the way home Friday - range shown 300 miles. Went on a 100 mile dual carriageway & motorway drive on Saturday - range at end 320 miles! So I drove 100 miles and had 20 miles MORE range at the end... How come? Estimated range in petrol/diesel VAG vehicles is based on the average consumption of the last 20 miles and my average consumption on the open roads on Saturday was much less than during the week.

What happened to disable them?

That makes no difference to the problem that the EV won't have the same level of regenerative braking if the battery is cold or almost fully charged - you're ignoring the problem, not answering the question.

Can you confirm that when you are having to emergency brake you take the time to look at your instruments rather than at the rapidly approaching obstruction in front?

It would appear not, and that on cold days with a well charged battery you cannot expect the same level of regeneration. Be interesting to see what the liability would be of an accident on a cold day near home with the EV driver saying "my EV didn't slow down like it usually does so I hit the queue of stationary vehicles" - the driver would (rightly) blame the car for not behaving as expected but the manufacturer would say "they all do that sir/madam" and the insurer would shrug their shoulders as usual.

There are plenty of areas near where I live in Wiltshire with NO mobile data reception, even the large new housing estate where I live has reception so poor that phones revert to WiFi Calling for voice calls! In the UK relying on mobile coverage for driverless vehicle operation is insane with so many not spots and areas of inconsistent mobile coverage. IMHO a pre-condition of allowing driverless vehicles needs to be decent reliable 4G/5G coverage.

UK or US date format? 6th October or 10th June?

You don't say what head unit you have so it's not possible to advise!

AFAIK you can only check the Haldex once the propshaft is back on and you try driving - there have been a few threads on here about Haldex problems so it's worth doing a search.

That's not just the rear diff - that's the rear diff AND Haldex clutch. Do some reading up - they use different oils and it's strongly advised that you also clean the Haldex filter.

The Haldex clutch and the rear diff are two different units. Between the propshaft and the rear diff there is a Haldex clutch unit that only engages drive to the rear diff when necessary.

I guess it's possible that the LHD drivers & RHD passengers or LHD passengers & RHD drivers are not the same length if the position of the wiper drive shafts are not identically handed. Sorry if that sounds complicated but I'm struggling to find an easier way to explain it!

OP says it's a 24 reg (March 24 to August 24) so it's not a "new" car as a "new" car will be a 74 reg?

I used to use Eco mode most of the time but in hilly regions the lack of engine braking means you need to use the brakes more, so I've switched to Drive mode to regain the engine braking - and not noticed any reduction in mpg.