PetrolDave

A 2015 car can be either MIB1 or MIB2 (it changed in May 2015 production), a MIB1 doesn't support CarPlay or Android Auto.

2015 could be MIB1 or MIB2 as the changeover happened in around May 2015. From your part number I think it's a MIB1 Amundsen you have, so I'm not sure if there is a larger screen that will work - when I had a MIB1 Amundsen I was told the larger MIB2 screens have a different resolution so won't work, but it would be good if @pab567 could confirm.

Do you mean just the screen (that's all it is) for a larger one, or the screen and the glovebox unit (that's the "brains") for a better one? What are you hoping to gain from the upgrade?

The issue you really need to check is whether it supports the non-entertainment features of the OEM infotainment units, many of those units do not. They allow you to both check, and more importantly setup/change/configure, many of the car functions (hence the CAR button).

Might be better if you post in the Mk2 Octavia forum?

@pab567

If the radio and Bluetooth sound fine then the audio amp part is OK. When you say not all CDs are as bad that suggests to me that the CD/SD part is also OK. Has this problem appeared recently or has it always sounded like this? Have you tried playing around with the audio and equaliser or bass/treble settings?

A 6% change could result in your speedo under-reading as they normally over-read by around 5%, which might not be desirable. The normally suggested maximum change is 2%.

The FSI VRS is FWD so no Haldex or rear diff, does he have an FSI or TDI VRS?

.When I had my previous car there was exactly this same debate about res or non-res. I had a non-res Milltek and the drone was so bad I paid to have it swapped to a res - some other owners agreed, but some others said they heard no drone at all. The conclusion we came to was that it's down to individual driving styles, music volume and hearing, so there is no "right" answer that applies to everyone.

No, Component Protection will need to be removed by a dealer or an independent with online access to the Skoda servers.

Those holes are to locate the feet of the roof bars which have locating pegs on them, I doubt they're an indication of extra strengthening. Bearing in mind that the average adult weighs 85kg (male) or 72kg (female) then even one person plus the bars and roof tent would exceed the maximum static load.

As it's an interference engine, not sure I'd be happy with relying on a "probably" comment...

Only if you change the Leuchte channel settings for the sidelight(s).

No comms with ECM means no power, ground or CAN connections to ECM or failed ECM - best to get a wiring digram from ERWIN and trace fuses and wiring.

... and give it an "Italian Tune" i.e. drive it like you stole it!

Any chance you could post a picture of the shifter?

DSG normally have 3 modes - Drive, Eco and Sport.

The measurements fit with the tyre calculator, the 4" space above the emergency spare to the top of the toolkit does suggest that it's worth a try with a full size wheel/tyre. Maybe temporarily swap the space saver with one of your own wheels so you can try it before spending the cash?

If there's no 4G coverage where you happen to be driving it will revert back to 3G, but if there's no 3G it will revert back to 2G data - which even in its "fastest" form of EDGE is still hundreds or thousands of times slower than 4G.

See attached comparison from tyresize.com Diameter of the 19" is 16mm (0.6") more, but most significantly the width is 110mm (4.4") more - most likely too deep to fit in the spare wheel well.

Two things are important about whether a spare will fit: 1) The outside diameter of the tyre when inflated - an emergency spare should be within a few % of a normal tyre, so this is less likely to be a problem. 2) The width of the tyre - normally an emergency spare is much narrower than a full size tyre, so would likely cause the boot floor not to fit. Wheel diameter is less important - a 19" with an ultra low profile tyre can have the same overall diameter as an 18" with a low profile tyre...

LEDs take less current so are higher resistance not lower resistance.

For me the key thing is to keep top grade farming land for farming and only site solar on land that is either unsuitable for farming or has yields that are so low it's unproductive. For me an example of getting it wrong is the proposed Lime Down solar park in Wiltshire which would be largely place on productive farming land. Lime Down  Solar Park consultation Lime Down Solar Park

If you have Canton the word Canton will be on the speaker grilles 👍