PetrolDave

All those systems need speed information, so I agree with Paws4Thot.

The language of this forum is English, please post only in English.

That's really the point I was making, clean energy generation is essential but it must be done sympathetically. There are plenty of great locations for wind, solar, hydro, tidal, etc. that do not cause unacceptable quality of life issues (or loss of productive farmland) for more than a handful of people, who must then be appropriately compensated.

An interesting question, but how it belongs in this thread about electric cars I fail to see - so I'm not going to clutter up this thread with my reply.

I love the way you go completely off-grid with some of your posts 😂

A few years ago I stayed a few miles from a wind farm near Dieppe, it was really difficult to get a good nights sleep whenever it was windy due to ground carried vibration from the wind turbines (yes I did look outside to check on which nights the turbines were operating).

But those of us who do drive, either because of necessity (work, non-existent public transport, etc.) or because we like driving, will have no choice from 2030 onwards when we buy new to buy an EV (I'm ignoring Hydrogen vehicles as the refuelling infrastructure and model choice is so limited). So Government policy IS forcing anyone who drives to switch to an EV in the coming years.

Supposedly "for life" but IIRC inspections are recommended after 120,000 miles. Skoda UK used to ridiculously advise every 5 years which no other part of the worldwide VAG empire did, recently they've "seen the light" and removed this crazy advice.

Very unlikely, the passenger and driver side heating comes from one common heater matrix. Far more likely is a problem with the temperature flaps in the HVAC system, you really need to get a scan done with a diagnostic tool such as OBDeleven or VCDS to get the details.

Lots of discussion on here about the micro-regenerative charging system on these cars - even one recently who said his alternator was faulty because the voltage varied between just over 12V and over 14V when driving, which is perfectly correct and normal for this system. I have a USB device from Amazon that I plug into the 12V socket in the centre console that shows the voltage, as an engineer it's quite enlightening to see how the voltage changes depending on time since starting, whether on trailing throttle, etc. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0878Z3BMX

But did the dealer say whether it was a software update to the SOS module or the infotainment - they're completely different software controlled modules. Your Octavia probably has at least 20 (often many more) software controlled modules, so you cannot assume that quoting the infotainment software version is relevant to faults in other modules.

Was the battery management coding updated when the new battery was fitted? If not it will still be assuming the old battery is fitted.

Always happy to learn new tricks 👍

+1 Never seen an option in the instruments to recalibrate for different rolling circumference...

👍

I'd be nervous if all they're offering replace is the screen, as the real infotainment 'brain' isn't in the screen. I'd make a fully working infotainment a condition of the purchase, possibly with an additional parts and labour commitment from them?

That's a really nice feature, on my Mk3 I have to look down at the infotainment screen to see where the object it's complaining about is.

Those errors come up because of disconnecting the battery and usually disappear after a short drive.

What new battery did you fit in the fob? The fobs are incredibly sensitive to the battery voltage and internal resistance.

The gear shifter is actually a complex switch mechanism with switches for both active and inactive positions (as a cross check of each other). In theory you might be able to rewire the manual mode switches to operate the opposite way, you would need to get a wiring diagram and do some thinking and planning. BTW I agree the manual modes work the wrong way, to me push forward should be downchange and pull back should be upchange - so that the inertia of braking and accelerating assist the change instead of resisting it (this is how my previous Toyots Aygo worked).

It actually says /Nav - which means no Nav (the / means without).

Skoda (in fact all VAG) temperature gauges show 90 degs for a wide range of temperatures (too many owners were reporting problems which were just normal variation in temperature when going downhill or driving hard), so don't believe the temperature gauge as an accurate measure of actual coolant temperature.

With short journeys and the colder weather it makes any mpg comparison pretty meaningless as the engine will spend a much longer time in warm up phase when consumption is higher.

👍👍👍

He's referring to the often mentioned silica bag in the coolant header tank. See if your coolant header tank has the words "mit silicat" on it?