PetrolDave

Not if you correctly change the bulb types specified in the BCM to LED using VCDS, OBDeleven, etc.

If a dimmwert value is 0 then that section of the leuchte is inactive since 0 means off, so don't mess with any 0 values! Typically 100 is max brightness with halogen bulbs but for a reason I don't understand 127 is sometimes used with LED bulbs. Look at it this way, the dimmwert vale specifies the duty cycle of a PWM signal, with 127 being the base value so 127 as a dimmwert value means 100% duty cycle, 64 means 50% duty cycle - you get the jist.

The indicated mpg is staying virtually the same but the tank level is dropping faster - so doesn't that say the 'extra' diesel is not passing the monitoring points, so maybe leaking or evaporating? It's not been hot enough for diesel evaporation to be a problem so my suggestion is to search for drips/leaks?

I wonder if a Freedom Of Information request to the DfT (or whatever it's called now) would elicit a complete list? Maybe a newspaper like the Guardian could be persuaded to be "interested"?

You're assuming that Skoda issue release notes - my experience is that they don't.

When I had a water leak in a previous car (Citroen C1) I had to put a fan heater in the car on max temperature to properly dry out the carpets and sound insulation underneath.

Sadly that's been the case for several years, it's been widely reported on the media for several years that the drivers who pay most for their insurance are those who don't shop around. The "loyalty bonus" is a bonus to the insurance company because you pay MORE for loyalty not less.

A short to 12V fault code can also mean that a wire (or corroded connector pin) is open circuit. You say you've checked the wires are intact, but have you checked any connectors in the circuit too?

Manual or DSG? Kangarooing is much less noticeable with DSG.

If they are dimmable you need to adjust the dimmwert value in the section where the bulbs are defined as indicators. The leuchte channels each have 4 sections with GH having the highest priority followed by EF, CD and AB.

I never felt my PD130 was lacking grunt, even before I had it chip tuned!

Some places say that to fully reset one touch on the Octavia you have to run the window to the limit and hold the switch 5 times not just once?

Does the drivers window move slower than the other windows? If it's slower the system may think it needs to stop when movng up because it thinks it's either reached the end or hit an obstruction.

I took a 1.4TSI estate to France several times with a roofbox and never felt it lacked performance or hill climbing ability.

Yes, you can do it with VCDS or OBDeleven.

Does this always happen on the same track, or a random track?

@pab567 Can you help?

Then they are wrong, like all (AFAIK) Octavia 3's your car has a BMS (Battery Management System) and start/stop, which means whenever the battery is changed the BMS must be informed of the battery change i.e. coded. If the battery is the same Ah capacity and type then all that's needed is to change one digit in the serial number.

I would have thought that a fault code scan would show something strange in the engine ECU? There are several briskoda members with e.g. VCDS willing to do scans for beer tokens see https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/page/5/#comment-5856576

I used to have a 53 plate Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDI 130PD GmbH edition which was 100% reliable and a great mile muncher. Even after a chip tune I could still get 700 miles from a tank full of the smelly stuff. Just hankered after a V8 so I swapped it for an S4 Avant with a 4.2 V8!

The accessory belt rotates at engine speed so it can't be that.

The 1.8 and 2.0 petrols don't have a cambelt, they have a chain. The smaller 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.5 petrols all have the new extended interval - and as the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine do NOT require that to be changed at the same time!

Never knew that, useful number to know!

I'd want to get this message understood, and cleared if possible, before doing anything with the knee airbag. If there's a "device" on the knee airbag wires then that suggests that either there's another fault or the device isn't working properly. Get a fault code scan done, and understand what's going on before making any changes is my advice.

It's really impossible to answer that without knowing how the dealer modified the car from new. There's a risk that plugging it back in could cause it to inflate explosively...