paulski

Only thing I've seen for window module to loose this setting is battery being disconnected. Try all the way down, then all the way up and hold that for three seconds. Also, when car is locked and all windows are shut, what happens when you press and hold the unlock button on the remote as that should open all the windows "comfort opening" and vice versa, holding lock should raise them again.

Not much to go on here, but I've looked at my accelerator pedal and it has two plugs connected where you only have one plugged in. I think you'd see the plug hanging around and you would have to unclip it from the socket with some effort. So I doubt it's missing anything. I wonder if it could be different due to different specifications. Mine is the Dsg, so automatic. you might not have a lower foam cover at all if you have a knee airbag, there is a softer plastic cover below mine where the airbag module is situated.

Your drivers window has just lost its "one touch function" Ignition on , Put the window down by holding the button, then put it all the way up. Let go of the button, then pull it up again for 3 seconds. Then put it down and try it up with one click it should go all the way up in one go after that.

Curious indeed, i always "feel" car feels more lively after an oil change and filters etc. I dont know for a fact as I've not yet had experience before and after this service procedure, but if the dsg had an oil change, they might have had to run through a diagnostic reset procedure that recalibrated the clutches pressure points. This is often reported on the forum to smooth out the gear changes and characteristics. Glad its better for you now, my 2.0 TDI dsg certainly idles at 750rpm and on take off, it just creeps away even off my drive that is slightly downhill.

I have not seen the earlier iterations but will add It has three sections that are hinged together. You would certainly need tools as it's all joined to a pivoting mechanism at the rear that is all part of the supports runners below. From fully lowered down (flush to spare wheel floor covering) pulling it forward and up, it slides up over two sprung loaded supports that pop back out and then the rear third automatically locks in with a catches either side. You can then flip the front two sections back over the most rear section as I have in the first photo allowing space still below but not having to reach far down and to the back for frequently used kit. When I'm away with the family I like that I can level the floor to load stuff in and out but still store stuff underneath out of the way like shoes coats that aren't needed till later, if at all. Simply clever...

The variable floor cannot be removed at all. Its not a slot in floor. It can be fully across the boot level with the boot lip, or put half back at that height. Or it can be lowered right down out of the way creating a full depth and length boot space. It's very neat. There is a hardboard floor in place below it that covers spare wheel space or the storage cubby if no spare wheel. I expect there would only be the difference in height of the top floor thickness when it's in the low level position when compared to car without it. Excuse the work gear, floor at half over below and fully over to boot level, @J.R. it's quite versatile to be honest.

I wonder if your issue might be linked to "safe lock" that activates when it locks via the button. Just a thought..

My comments are from my non Kessy car, so might not be the same if yours is kessy vehicle. Taking the key out the ignition will allow all doors to be opened from the outside, if the all lock button has been pressed, although possibly not a practical solution in every case if you're dropping off? One question, do you need to manually press the interior lock button anyway at all. I rarely use mine, just when dropping off perhaps with engine running. Car then autolocks again once moving. Is automatic locking ticked in infotainment menu, CAR, "settings", "locking"? You could leave that off and then not use the manual button inside to lock all doors at all, unless you feel you need to have all the doors locked when driving around.

My work takes me down various "access roads" to sites that are not owned by the company I work for. These "roads" are often poorly maintained (can be farmers tracks) and also have large (13ton) sewage sludge tankers hauling 4000 gallons of sludge out of sites regularly that dig tractor like groves either side. My standard sel Dsg has yet to be grounded by anyone them to date even when having to steer slowly left and right out of deep pot holes. Just have to drive slowly. Think you'll probably be ok to be honest.

Aircon service is recommended every 2 years as the gas will gradually leak out the system. I had an independent mobile chap that comes to my house at my convenience and charged £75. I have no prior knowledge of it being done on my 2016 car at 70k miles and it was 50% down on gas but still working fine. It's worth doing from time time as they vacuum out the system to remove moisture and replenish lubrication oil needed for the pump. Probably worth doing at some point soon to keep it good for the future IMO. A/C Pumps are very costly to replace. Two of my MOTs prior to me buying my car show misting of shocks, still passed last MOT @ 69 k miles and very common to be noted on our cars but nothing to be concerned about at all. My last Vw group car did 188000 miles and never had new front shocks. 😀 Still drove alright. Just my two pennies worth.

Sounds "comfortable", think hang up my VCDS boots and come round to yours @fabdavrav next time pouring down and below 5C...

@SimmoWhale Quite likely the 2.0tdi is more economical as it's got a higher torque lower down the rev range. It'll do ~1200rpm in 6th gear at 30mph. If you think about what remaps do to TDI cars they are often advertised to increase mpg as the torque is improved so you don't need to be in a higher rev range. My Octavia 2.0 Dsg is equally as economical as my 2005 Seat Altea TDI was, which was the 1.9l, smaller lighter and a manual. It's a cracking engine imo.

You have to push those parts in flush to allow the Variofloor to be lowered and dropped into its low position flush to the spare wheel or storage cubby holes And more "Simply Clever" Remove the covers you can see right and left in the recess's and then you can store the retractable boot cover under the Variofloor. Then put the covers back on pull the variofloor across for a nice neat level boot floor.

Button to "0" kills all lights fully, not what the OP wanted, you can't turn the rears off separately, Time to trade in child with one less inquisitive or connect them to a dynamo to charge daddy's flat battery...

When you changed to battery, did you get recoding done. It'll probably be ok but it's recommended to tell the car a new battery has been installed in software so it can charge it appropriately.

Should add its a Dsg gearbox but you can slip it into neutral still. Indeed my thoughts too that it needs time to get rid of some heat, I've got it in my head now that even coming off a motorway/dual carriageway to a slip road it will stop immediately. I'll have to test the theory that it won't start stop after its been worked a bit, let's face it, the car has the oil temperature on the maxidot, so ECU can reference that to decide if it's "ok" to stop.

From my TDI Pump Duse days I always let the car idle after giving it some beans before turning the engine off with the key. It dawned on me the other day, if I've been "encouraging" the throttle and then hit traffic etc and come to a stop, the turbo will still be spinning at high rpm without lubrication as the engine stops. Does anyone know if the EA288 engines have any oil systems that continue to operate after stop start activates to prevent damage to the turbo bearings? I would add I don't want to disable stop start as I think it's good to have it operating as designed. Thanks.

Just to add out of interest, although this is my TDI engine it clearly shows how much of a lag the oil temperature is behind coolant, but coolant warms quicker these days to meet emissions, they are very well controlled by more than one coolant circuit. And looking at the end of the red line the coolant temperature is flat as being so well controlled. The graph is about ten minutes of real time. Proves the "wait for oil temperature to be reading" before giving it some beans theory.

Well she's gonna be riding in style from now on then! Yes the Octavia has lots going for it without the cost of Audi/VW. they go like stink the VRS, better handling than my "family" SEL DsG, but hey I would not get a VRS down some of the access roads I have to negotiate for work.. FYI, I see you're in East Sussex, I'm just outside Brighton, PM me if you wish for VCDS mods below, I'm a fully registered user both here and on other forums. Minimal fees for Briskoda members. See the list of mods for our cars here...I've done quite a few on my own and other members cars. Best Regards

@Border Collie did you "feel" the car doing a regen before the light went out? To me an active regen is pretty noticeable when in stop start traffic, perhaps less so if you've not had to stop for a while. It chucks in more fuel to get the DPF hot enough and the engine "can" feel a bit more "sluggish"/heavy" but perceptions are different between people and the different engine Size/bhp of tdi's in our cars.

Might want to Keep the dog away them tail pipes...brrrrrmmmmmm BTW looks lush in that colour in the estate. Enjoy.

not seen that forum pin, but thank you very much @john999boy So what's going on with the Skoda Portal then have they just turned it off?

Cambelt and water pump at an indy would be ~£400 (that's what I paid, main dealer wanted an eye watering £650) Does it "need" to be done at the dealers by October? knock £250 off their price for that work for starters after warranty expires Or is it that you are "sticking" with dealer in Warranty for peace of mind (which is totally fair enough if you paid for extended warranty). Does it really need discs and pads now? if discs are changed its sort of mandatory to do pads at the same time, indy would save costs on that. Not really a "warranty" worth item discs and pads imo. Their a wear item. Sound car the Octavia and it's got plenty of life left in it at 69k. I'd say there are 200 or more Octavia's in Brighton as taxis, don't think they're unreliable at higher miles if looked after and they aren't expensive to maintain at a good indy.

hi all I was just checking for map updates here: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ but there are none showing for my VIN, but I'm sure last year there was but I never got round to downloading/updating them. Am out of time for updates now, due to registration date being March 2016? Thanks