numskull

So with the weather being ok today I want to start the install the rear dashcam. Does anyone have advice / instructions on the removal of the tailgate trim? So I’ve done a site lookup and I’ve found there is a torx bolt in the upper section somewhere and the lower section needs to be remove first, but I’d like a bit more information if anyone can help, so the FU 🧚 remains firmly in their place!

The Gap is generally ok, but come off the R252 or drive down Woodland off the N15 to get to the where relatives live in the north and blimey, the roads are terrible.

Yeah, I agree, but that’s not a failing of the tyres. People here and elsewhere have slated the Pirelli P7’s as being poor in the wet but, apart from high noise levels in the car, I found them to be fine. I only changed them for all seasons because we travel to Donegal in the winter and weather there can be treacherous, especially on their B equivalent roads. I remember I bought a set of….. wait for it - Infinity Ecomax - on the MKII and they were bloody great. Quiet, great in the dry and wet. I remember I had to do a big emergency stop on the M25, in the rain and there was no drama. They were £50 a pop.

Unfortunately, this phrase is so over used and inaccurate, it borders on the ridiculous. 95% of drivers bottle will let go far earlier than 95% of the tyres will.

Yeah, I didn’t end up paying that. I think the came out to £190. That’s good. Why not go with a new pair of those?

Thanks. So what is your budget? I ask as ultimately, this drives what you're going to purchase. If you're looking at £150 a unit, there'd be no point in us suggesting £200 units. I wanted all-season tyres so I knew I'd be looking at least £250 a unit.

Welcome to Briskoda! What is the problem you’re trying to fix? If there isn’t one, why do you want to update it?

What’s the tyre size?

Absolutely nothing but ripping off the customer. The insurance cartel decided to increase revenues to meet the “massively increased costs of repair and payouts for non-insured driver at fault accidents”. Perhaps they should focus on the manufacturers charging completely outrageous prices for replacement parts as they’ve beaten the bodyshop hourly rates to death. £1,500 for a new headlight unit is utterly ridiculous, as is £180 for a bit of external trim.

^^^^^^ as does mine.

Most insurers give a discount for having a dashcam; bit like having CCTV at home however, I’m not surprised this could be the case. Underwriters are demanding that every single opportunity needs to be taken by brokers to minimise their risk. Obviously the one which has had the biggest impact was the introduction of loading for insured who’ve been invoked in a no fault accident about 20 years ago. But claim rejection for non-declaration of the most minor non-OE items such as head units, wheels, bulbs or even tyres is outrageous and should be outlawed, but of course, many MP’s and members of the Lords are in the pockets of the insurance industry, so that’ll never happen.

So I’d been thinking about getting a pair of those flappy paddle extension shifter thingys fora while but tbh, I just couldn’t bring myself to spend a daft amount on them in case I don’t get on with them. I was screen shopping on Ali and I found these for the grand sum of £7.74! They dry fit perfectly and appear to be identical to these which are somewhat more expensive. Oh and I picked up a plastic battery cover too (yeah, I don’t know why either!) … for £4.44. They also had a deal for free postage over £8 so very happy!😃

As I originally wrote yes, it sounds like a DPF issue, BUT it’s a waste of everyone’s time just speculating. Get it scanned ASAP.

Well, I really don’t think you can compare a high performance, 2.0 4cyl turbocharged engine, to a small capacity V8 and I’d be surprised if it would be a particularly successful implementation, but you pays your money. I disliked the LPG experience albeit that was a long time ago and if the OP wants to invest their hard-earned, good luck to them. On that point, what is the cost of an LPG conversion these days?

What scanner did you use? I'd be amazed given the glow lamp light came on, the DPF lamp comes on and going into limp too, that there are no codes stored hence you should get a VAG specialist to scan it.

^^^^ 😀

Welcome to Briskoda. Sounds like it could be a DPF problem. In any event, the first thing I suggest you do, is get the car to a good independent VAG specialist and scanned for fault codes, as this will definitely point to the cause of the increasing number of issues you’re experiencing.

Personally, I’d say with the installation cost, the loss of performance from the LPG and the doubtful long-term viability of LPG in general (what do you do if said LPG garages stop retailing it?) I’d’ve thought this would be a no-no. I ran a Mondeo with LPG for a while and it was bloody awful - terrible performance and you’d only get about 100 miles from the LPG too….and no spare wheel either, unless you wanted no boot space. Depending on the openness of the roads you commute, I could foresee you could get about 35mpg on 99oct petrol with the 280 on a 60 mile trip, possibly more in warmer weather. That would be reduced to 23/25 on shorter commutes.

Thanks for that. Unfortunately it won’t fit our 280, as they only fit hatchbacks with two open side pockets; the sub is in the left one with a door and the right pocket also has a door. ☹️

That liner is a-ma-zing! Link please.👍🏻

Our 2010 CR170 clutch became terrible in 2013 at about 30k. Random juddering under any circumstances. Bloody ridiculous as I’d only covered 5k since I’d bought it. Skoda weren’t interested as it was a “sacrificial item” and “wear and tear” was not covered under the warranty (it had a five year warranty) so I decided to get the clutch and DMF replaced as it was driving me insane. Fixed it completely. You wouldn’t be surprised to need a replacement clutch on a 1973 30k miler Austin Allegro however, a clutch failing at 30 odd ‘000 miles on a 3 year old car in 2013 is, my view, outrageous and it absolutely should be covered.

Totally agree. I have a good pressure gauge and a handheld Aldi battery pump (which is brilliant btw) in the boot at all times. The gauge on the pump reads 1psi low, so I set that to +1psi to achieve the correct pressure.

That’s odd. Were there fault codes on the original struts, showing they were the issue?

Yep, same here. New battery fixed intermittent drivers door unlocking using the door handle. If I used the key button it’d work, until a few days later when it failed completely. Shoved a new battery in and it’s been all good for the past two years.

And the P7’s they replaced lasted 37,000 and still had 2 - 2.5mm remaining. My son rips through tyres at an alarming rate; 10-12k at most because he brakes late and screams round corners. What I’m saying is driving style is the paramount reason behind early or late tyre wear, nothing else. These tyre-test sites do not represent the real-world experiences; the Michelins on my first Superb covered 63k before I replaced them, albeit 90% of driving was motorway at that time.