numskull

WOW! And then the leak disappeared!

The Conti All Seasons I’ve had on for 18m now are great. They’ve covered about 7.5k and are still as quiet as they were new and there is no perceptible wear, but I do drive “sedately”.

Welcome to Briskoda. We’d need some more information; Petrol or diesel? Engine size? Manual or auto? Mileage? Hatch or estate? Where is the sound coming from, so from the front, rear, side?

No, the software based limiters on our buses work perfectly.

Well, knock me over with a feather… not. I think they didn’t bother trying to regas it or didn’t have the expertise to regas it that day, or both and finally they’d rip you off by replacing parts that were not required. And hands up all those who really thinks a dealership would never do number 4. Well, it’s happened to me on more than one occasion at two Skoda dealers, once with a wheel bearing the Octavia and two parking sensors the MKI Superb. Neither of these dealers are still in business.

Well, to be fair they are all franchises.

So the AC is t working at all? They probably inadvertently emptied it when they tried to regass it! As you have a service plan, I’d suggest another dealer, but I know they’re few and far between in NI. If you can find a reputable AC engineer I’d use them, however I’ve used my local Kwik-Fit to regass the wife’s MKI Focus (after Halfords said the compressor or the clutch or the condenser or the gas was “wrong”) and last week, my son’s Merc CLK500 and on both occasions they did a fast, efficient job.

Bullllllllshiiiiiiiit! How would they know without testing the system? I had all that nonsense a couple of years ago (from a so-called AC expert btw!) and it was identified very quickly at the excellent indy I use, as joint leak on the top pipe to the condenser.

Welcome. Yep, this is the correct forum. Full service history, including the DSG/Haldex. No idea on the indies in your area, but I’m sure a member local to you will be able to help.

Jeste li dali skenirati automobil da vidite koji su kodovi grešaka prisutni? Također, pokušajte upotrijebiti Google prevoditelj, kao ja, da vam odgovorim na koatijskom!

🤪 Yeah, that’ll be Colchester, Graham!! 🙄

I bought the 280 IN Chelmsford, Graham, from George Kingsley Prestige and Performance.😁

The change cost £1,100 on our MKII CR170 about 6 years ago. That was with a multi-marque indy who always carried out services on our cars at the time.

Great. I have no idea what the costs from a dealer in the U.K. would be, but I’d estimate it’d be 25-50% more than an independent supplier for the same unit.

Thats right, and they also come with a “special” Skoda dealer price too…🙄

😳 It could be the Greenline gets the B&W version - just another guess. We like long-boring stories so why didn’t you keep the L&K? Or the other one for that matter?!

The OP is asking for advice. Given you’ve not read their entire post, I’ll clarify; they stated they believe the OE’s units were already replaced. As for age/mileage related failures, our 2016 car OE shocks are fine - they’ve done 49k. The OE shocks on SWMBO 21 year-old Focus are fine. They’ve done 81k. Shocks tend to fail independently, so a failure of all four at the same time would be unlikely in the extreme.

I’m guessing on SEL and above. L&K gets a sort-of colour display.

Can I ask a few basic questions. Have you had the car scanned for DCC faults? If not, you should as it could highlight a system issue. I suggest you find a decent VAG independent to do this as a main dealer will charge a ridiculous sum for this. Have the individual struts been checked? Do you have DCC set to Comfort, Normal or Sport? I ask as Sport can be twitchy at the rear, especially when it’s unloaded. Do the symptoms you describe, happen on all settings?

Any chance the local council had been cutting the verge, Lee? Where’s there blame and all that… £500 for any piece of non-heated windscreen glass is completely insane - especially a bit like that - but trade discounts on glass are huge, which explains why glass insurance replacement excesses are so low.

Can I ask which product you used?

I have a - ahem - a slightly creaky flap, so I’ll give this a go, thank you. I also decided to fit a Stop/Restart disable cable and I understand what you mean about the lack of space to get the central lump of the cable installed!

Right. And then one gives a tiny blip to the loud pedal and you’re coasting again. EDIT - yep, zaklee what ^^ said!

You only have to touch the brake and engine braking is restored.

Pretty amazing that dealers can sell cars which they have zero ability to properly service. I’d stick with Winchester. Most decent dealers will do a while you wait service.