numskull

Jeste li dali skenirati automobil da vidite koji su kodovi grešaka prisutni? Također, pokušajte upotrijebiti Google prevoditelj, kao ja, da vam odgovorim na koatijskom!

🤪 Yeah, that’ll be Colchester, Graham!! 🙄

I bought the 280 IN Chelmsford, Graham, from George Kingsley Prestige and Performance.😁

The change cost £1,100 on our MKII CR170 about 6 years ago. That was with a multi-marque indy who always carried out services on our cars at the time.

Great. I have no idea what the costs from a dealer in the U.K. would be, but I’d estimate it’d be 25-50% more than an independent supplier for the same unit.

Thats right, and they also come with a “special” Skoda dealer price too…🙄

😳 It could be the Greenline gets the B&W version - just another guess. We like long-boring stories so why didn’t you keep the L&K? Or the other one for that matter?!

The OP is asking for advice. Given you’ve not read their entire post, I’ll clarify; they stated they believe the OE’s units were already replaced. As for age/mileage related failures, our 2016 car OE shocks are fine - they’ve done 49k. The OE shocks on SWMBO 21 year-old Focus are fine. They’ve done 81k. Shocks tend to fail independently, so a failure of all four at the same time would be unlikely in the extreme.

I’m guessing on SEL and above. L&K gets a sort-of colour display.

Can I ask a few basic questions. Have you had the car scanned for DCC faults? If not, you should as it could highlight a system issue. I suggest you find a decent VAG independent to do this as a main dealer will charge a ridiculous sum for this. Have the individual struts been checked? Do you have DCC set to Comfort, Normal or Sport? I ask as Sport can be twitchy at the rear, especially when it’s unloaded. Do the symptoms you describe, happen on all settings?

Any chance the local council had been cutting the verge, Lee? Where’s there blame and all that… £500 for any piece of non-heated windscreen glass is completely insane - especially a bit like that - but trade discounts on glass are huge, which explains why glass insurance replacement excesses are so low.

Can I ask which product you used?

I have a - ahem - a slightly creaky flap, so I’ll give this a go, thank you. I also decided to fit a Stop/Restart disable cable and I understand what you mean about the lack of space to get the central lump of the cable installed!

Right. And then one gives a tiny blip to the loud pedal and you’re coasting again. EDIT - yep, zaklee what ^^ said!

You only have to touch the brake and engine braking is restored.

Pretty amazing that dealers can sell cars which they have zero ability to properly service. I’d stick with Winchester. Most decent dealers will do a while you wait service.

I’ve had chromed steel caps on ours which I bought from eBay for four years and I’ve had no issues getting them off or back on again.

Yeah, in the Summer it’s fine… well, not the oil, obviously (thank gawd for 5/30!) In the winter it does struggle. Currently 27. Drops to 24 in the Winter. Gentle right foot and using Eco does help, as there are long stretches I can coast. I know what you mean, but I’ve always coasted whenever I could when I had a manual, so it doesn’t bother me. In any event, you can use the paddles to downshift if y’want.

If they’re the same as the Superb units, I have a spare which you can have.

^^^^ is what I do, albeit I’ve been using E on my enormous 4 mile round trip to work (🤣) now the weather has warmed-up; definitely improves MPG. My 2016 idles at 1000 in S mode.

Definitely sounds like a loose bracket or other type of fixing. Did you buy from a dealer?

I’d speak to the retailer in the 1st instance however, I’d be very surprised if they’ll be covered under any used car warranty.

It sounds more like a rattle rather than a metal-to-metal sound, but it’s impossible to be sure. Can you, or better still a passenger, try to ascertain where the sound is being produced? Turn off the AC, retract the load cover and drop the rear seats too.

It’s to pop in any parts you find that fall off under the dash, so the techs can easily find and chuck them in the bin and say they’ve refitted them…

I would think it will drastically reduce the diode life, as all the fan is doing is circulating hot air inside the headlamp unit.