numskull

Yeah,, sorry, off a switched live. Here is a the step-by-step guide I used. Position of fuses may not be the same but these are the fundamentals.

Hard wire it to the fuse box. It’s not hard.

So where is the BS when the tech told me that is was not possible to change or reset the shift patterns on a DSG box? Ahhh right, I see. So its actually like an automatic gearbox, responding to the demands of the throttle position and it is not actually a sentient being is it, “knowing the road it’s is travelling on”, so it does not ”learn” anything at all. Phew… I’m pleased we cleared that one up as I thought the 280 would suddenly decide to drive all the way to Aldi in 1st….for a laugh.

Is there any way to adjust the shift patterns? Also, how can it “learn” driving characteristics when the requirements of the road conditions dictate driving characteristics?

Well, OK, brighter in longer distance would be great. It’s all irrelevant anyway, as VOSA almost certainly won’t approve them.

Obviously Xenons have those. I’d be disappointed if there wasn’t a true performance upgrade too, in terms of additional light on the road.

I’ve had sunroofs fitted at build in the past and would never have one again. They’re a PITA to keep the drains clear and never used them once AC became the norm.

Our March 2016 280 is is Euro 6 compliant.

Well to be fair, not all Russian businesses are run by Putin-supporting nutters.

Can’t you order them from the site you linked?

We have a March 2016 reg LK 280 and love it. It’s the best, most comfortable and fastest car I’ve owned bar none. Don’t bother thinking about economy if you’re in the market for one of these, as in true urban, I get around 25 (and even less if you blip away at the lights now and again!) and the very best mpg I’ve got is about 37, on a 1k round trip.

Let me be clear about what I meant. You are not actually “repairing” a windscreen with injected resin, you’re providing a cosmetic finish to mask the damage and to stop water penetration, but the actual structure of the glass remains compromised in that position and that’s why there are rules on the sizes of a fix applied to damage. Granted, things have probably changed, but when I worked with them, neither AW or AG would repair anything over 40mm, so 1.5 inches in the D Zone and they would never attempt a repair if it emanated from anywhere on the outer edge either, as it would inevitably just continue to spread with the constant stress the glass is under and in the case of an airbag deployment or should the car turn over, this could cause the glass to fail completely which is not something you want in either scenario.

Most insurers use reputable glass installers as the costs of getting poorly fitted units rectified is high, especially those which are heated and have camera units fitted, which need to be set up and adapted to the car. Unfortunately no, I’m afraid cracks cannot be repaired.

Interesting comparisons, albeit comparing the Arteon, A6 and 5 Series to a Superb is a bit ridiculous, on RRP alone. Is the Enyaq really that expensive; I thought the coupe vRS was around €65k? (Which is still utterly ridiculous). IMO, the tyre roar and transmitted noise, so potholes and expansion lines on the M25 concrete section, were the most annoying “features” of the 280, but now the original P6’s are off and the Conti All Season are on, I estimate both have been reduced by 70%.

In the mid ‘80’s, I got rid of a 2 y/o Fiat Argenta as it was such a lemon (and Fiats biggest dud I should add) and I had a Friday night cocar Escort XR3i which was SO bad, Ford took it back. I see you’ve kept the Superb and it hasn’t put you off obtaining another. 😊

Well, to be fair, Skoda products have been in the top 15 of the U.K. JD Power Reliability Survey for the last 10 years so I guess that’s not too bad. Kodiaq was #1 this year for reliability and #5 overall. Warranty direct state Skoda comes 4th overall in their experience for reliability, with the Superb being the most reliable model.

I never understand the illogical decisions MM’s make regarding warranty replacement of faulty parts. The damage it does to the product reputation of the is immense, any possibility of a repeat purchase is dramatically reduced and the actual cost to the two companies (dealer and manufacturer) is huge; financially and in terms of poor PR. If they’d just replaced the unit when it was identified it was faulty, the time and money saved would’ve more than covered the replacement cost. And of course, the customer is delighted. 20 years ago, Skoda was fantastic in all these areas and now there the same as all the others. What a bunch of idiots….

It could be related to the replacement mirror unit, but as fat as I know, that’s on a couple of block connectors. I have no idea where the strip is connected, but I’m sure someone will be along to advise you shortly….

I use the 12v socket in the boot, into which I leave the CTEK plug attached to the CTEK 2m extension lead. It’s quicker and more convenient in my case, as I always reverse park onto the drive so I open the boot, take out the extension lead and attach it to the plug from the charger, which I leave hanging down from the closed window with about 15cm of lead and once inside, I switch on the charger. I should add that I do have the battery cable with the socket permanently attached to the battery too, as this is easier to use in some locations.

Nice one. I wonder what’s added to these units make them fully compatible with the car? Are these the same units as are used in the boot area of the hatchback, AS?

Thats good. Does that include not giving a “Boot Open” warning on the dash when you open the glovebox?

Exactly what Varooom said. There could be nothing wrong with it, but it’s just taken a battering over the past few days when it’s been so cold. Have a look at my earlier post on this subject, when I thought our battery had had it. Knowing it’s time could be up, I took out battery replacement cover with the RAC this year. Here’s what happend… https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506817-new-battery-time-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=5715148

^^^ What varooom said, plus you may not need a new battery either.

I would hasten you to use the charger asap, as that will keep the battery in its best state at all times. I’ve just returned after a 1100 mile trip and I’ve put straight onto the CTEK charger.

Before you drive off, get them to do it.