xman

Not with regard to your purchase in 2013. The maximum six months has elapsed long ago.

I blame my dyslexia on my brief encounters in the roadside hotel......

Any chance you could offer an English translation?

This has been a EU requirement for some time. It is part of the airbag system AFAIK. Getting hold of the data is another matter, afaik there is no obligation for whoever can access this data to release it to Joe public or law enforcement in the UK. I requested such information be released via the Crown Prosecution Service persuing a fatal road accident a few years ago, but their lawyers told me that they and the police investigator were powerless to access this from the Ford motor company. Not sure they even made the effort.

Oil level has nothing to do with the MOT. They should not even touch the dipstick.

Misting is caused by a bit of overpressure in the shocker blowing off by the shaft seal, recent hot weather combined with some hard work can bring this about. Its relatively common. As suggested, wipe it down and monitor. Often its a one off or rare event.

At first glance, they appear to have reset your car to fixed service interval which is against your instructions. Problem is they might or probably have also used oil that is only suitable for fixed service intervals, is there any indication on the invoice or other documentation? So then it boils down to whether your instruction was verbal or written down somewhere. And whether you had a prepaid plan (or free servicing) that might stipulate fixed interval only on the small print. In any case, good look with the showdown, but unless you have conclusive proof of 504/507 longlife iii oil being used, its not simply a case of resetting the service indicator/records. That's symptomatic of a variable service regime in play. Which makes matters even more complicated. Someone has completely messed up the reset, there are many options available using dealer equipment. Variable intervals should show 18700 miles or 730 days immediately after a variable interval service.

Maybe their mechanic is right handed... Before going full speed ahead, unless you are sure (did you check yourself?), go to another place that does MOTs and ask them for their opinion if the shock absorber is really leaking (MOT fail) or simply misted (a symptom sometimes seen, but not an MOT fail). I just got a quote for changing 2 rear shockers including the bump stops and dust covers (which are usually extra cost items) for £216 from an independent specialist using bilstein shocks. On a 2011 Octavia estate so not necessarily comparable though both have independent rear suspensions. Phone around and compare prices, some garages will price match. Beware to compare like for like, ask exactly what they would change, what brand/quality the parts are and what warranty they will give. Skoda may offer a 2 year warranty or maybe only 6months/6500 mile which is their new car warranty for shock absorbers. Ask. Many towns have independents specialising in German makes which is often the best option in my experience. Long lead times at many good garages though at the moment.

So car manufacturers are following the lead of mobile phone operators and signing you up for a nice contract that costs you even if you don't use it. But think of the money you could save they will say. Payg? Maybe they will add goody bags or bolt ons later. Maybe they'll even have a cheery chubby Yorkshireman advertising here in gods own country. That'll do

A problem I've experienced is the location of the dipstick, and installation of the engine. My 1.2 htp BZG engined fabia has a massive tilt from left to right. Easily more than a inch maybe two higher at the left than right. There was a thread about this many years ago, some people had it, others had level engines. The very long dipstick is at the left high end of the sump. If I fill it to the top of the hatched area of the dipstick it takes 3.3 - 3.4 litres. Hot, warm, cold makes little difference. The official spec is it should take 2.8 litres. So after scratching my head for a few years about this, I finally decided on running it between halfway and two thirds up the hatched area which equates to around 3.0 litres. Anecdotal, I admit, but it seems happier, a little quieter and more economical like that, it could be it reduces the incidence of crank counterweights thrashing the oil, which theoretically, in extremis, could aerate the oil leading to loss of dramatic oil pressure. Not to mention overloading the oil seperator and other things. No idea why some engines end up installed at the factory on the p like this.

I suggest you check you have the correct iridium spark plugs fitted and whether they are not worn out (maybe they didn't change one/all because it was difficult). While they are out check the tip to connection resistance NGK = 1kohm BOSCH = 6kohm (approx) NGK IZFR6P7 (97153) or BOSCH 0242240665 [ FR6HI332 ] You might want to consider if the garage you use can be trusted. As I said earlier, Skoda parts come with a 2 year warranty, if they fit them it will be a 2 year parts and labour warranty. We have had 2x 1.2tsi engined cars with a total of 270,000 miles and 15 years service. The 2011 car had a no.3 lead fail (which took out the coil pack) at 50,000 miles 3.5 years. With the new lead style fitted there have been no further failures still going strong at 150,000 miles / 10 years Old style leads New style leads Also worth mentioning is the spark plug boot connection is extremely tight with a close fitting rubber seal. A light smear of special grease is supposed to be applied to stop the rubber sticking/bonding to the ceramic insulator. It is imperative that an appropriate tool is used to pull the metal boot off the plug. If someone tries to disconnect the lead off the spark plug by pulling on the lead, they will invariably break the lead's core. So a clumsy or ignorant mechanic could easily damage a lead.

Its highly unlikely leads go faulty in such a short time/mileage scale. Genuine Skoda replacement have a 2 year warranty. Many aftermarket have the same or longer warranty. Who is diagnosing the faulty leads, how and what are the symptoms? Presumably its a cbzb engine 1.2tsi 105ps. Plugs need changing at 40,000 miles with iridium fine tip (NGK if you have leads with 9k resistance or Bosch if the leads are copper core or low resistance). Two types of leads are available, the original style are unsheathed and have a resistance of 9k ohms. Later ones have corrugated trunking protecting them (called marten protection) these are better are protecting the leads from heat damage from the exhaust/turbo. You should make sure leads are clipped away from the heat shield. Coils can and do break down, usually when the leads go open circuit or your plugs are too worn out. Unprotected style no.3 lead is the usual lead to fail, as it rests on the heat shield. My guess is someone incorrectly thinks leads are faulty because they don't buzz out with a continuity tester. Or perhaps some incorrect cheap non fine tip plugs are fitted. Or something else is causing misfires or rough running, unrelated to ignition.

I am not going down the route of changing tyres twice a year. FAFF is putting it mildy. I don't have a second set of wheels and will not entertain that option. I am very fussy about how my tyres are changed having observed over the years cars bring damaged when jacking incorrectly, air tools used incorrectly/inappropriately damaging wheel bolts/keys, overtightening, crossthreading, fitters gouging alloys when removing stuck on balance weights etc etc. Fitting and removing the same tyre on a rim many times is surely not good for the tyre and possibly the rim. I always remove/refit wheels myself, clean and prepare them carefully and take them to somewhere I can observe them changing and balancing the tyre. Can only take one sometimes two wheels in one trip to the tyre fitter so 2 or 4 trips. Some larger places will now not fit tyres that they don't supply. Lots of hassle, but I use the opportunity to examine/clean the brakes/suspension while the wheel is off. Decision to go ahead or not will be next Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for the comments so far.

When I ordered my Superb in Dec 17 and paid the £500 deposit, the dealer gave me a 5 page Skoda factory order document showing a thorough breakdown of the price agreed, on page 3 was a printed list of the factory fitted options, the PR codes and and price for each option. I signed their copy and that constituted our written contract. So maybe the OP can consult his documentation and enlighten us with the exact PR code and description of the factory fitted options. As for @Golfmk56, welcome to the armchair expert club, make yourself comfy in your armchair. I hope you're not just another unhelpful troll.

I think its a bit more than 2.45 litres.....quite a bit more (3.8 litres)

Not in the UK, you can't. That used to be an option available but only on the base SE with 17" wheels. It disappeared off the options list 3 or 4 years ago along with the rough road package.

If I did buy them, whats the maximum I could store new tyres in my garage before fitting them? Thoughts please....

Car MY18 1.4 SEL with P7 235/45R18 tyres, 12,000 miles I hate the OE P7 tyres on my car. Wayyyy too noisy, constant white noise, harsh, loud over any minor bump. On the other hand, rolling resistance must be low as I can easily get mid 50+ mpg average on long motorway runs at the limit, must be because they are so hard. I've even contemplated selling my car its so loud, but financially that's daft. It was supposed to be a keeper. Depressingly at 12,000 miles they measure at 6mm front, 6.5mm rear. I seem to recall measuring them at 7.5mm when new. So will last for years yet. I'm a fan of all season tyres, in particular the Vredestein Quatrac 5 has been my go to choice for all our other cars. Non directional too. Now I see Camskill have Quatrac 5 in my size for under £109 including delivery AND Vredestein are doing a promotion until July 31. £25/£50 off for 2/4 tyres, taking them down to around £96 ea delivered. Then need to budget £10 ea for fitting locally. Tempted to order 2 or 4. But would I end up storing them for a few years before fitting and what to do with the P7 tyres? I'm not a seller type person.....decisions, decisions..,

Problem with Kwikfit is knowing whether the oil used is suitable (505.01 or 507) and whether they use a quality filter and not a Champion type filter. Price is from £49.99 but is extra cost if your car requires specialist oil (which it does), which will be charged if you point it out to them, but maybe not used . Also there is a possibility of them finding "oil in coolant" as happened with daughter in law, as well as the usual "brakes or tyres need changing".

Ideally oil would be changed frequently. Cost of own bought oil is not a major issue, its the hassle of getting it done. If you can't or won't do it yourself, you have to find, book, pay someone to do it, find time (off work) and make arrangements to drop off and pick up the car, arrange alternative transport etc. Some places will only want to use oils and filters they supply at ridiculous mark ups. Difficult to know if they actually changed the oil, with what and how in a PD diesel, as it will always be black when you check. The cost and time and inconvenience of this option is significant. Skoda will charge £185 and may try to persuade you that several other jobs costing hundreds of pounds also need to be done. On the other hand, if you are nifty and DIY competent then if you can spare at least half a day off work or other commitments and you are fit enough and have the right place/tools and means of disposing of old oil, you can save lots of dosh. However, DIY servicing is discounted by many would be buyers as proper servicing and so may impact the future selling potential of your car. I myself have become increasingly physically infirm in old age and can no longer do many jobs I once could or would. As the cars I buy are keepers, when warranties expire, I often default to 1 year / 9400 mile oil changes which I can still do myself with filter changes every second oil change except for the fabia 1.2htp which has a very small oil filter and never was offered in the UK on extended service regime anyway. No problems running to 150,000 miles so far. Being the OP has a PD engine, I would say stick to an oil and filter change every 9,400 miles / 1 year max as they are known to suffer major top end damage if the oil is tired/diluted with diesel or simply not up to the job.

Its 505.01 not 501.01 and definitely not 505.00 507.00 is fine. Do NOT use 508/509 spec oil under any circumstances, it is NOT backward compatible and will probably kill your PD engine. Specs are the important thing for PD engines, the oil must have EP additives to protect the unit injector camlobes. A full synthetic blend is always preferable to semi synthetic, hardly any price difference nowadays and longer life. Stick to known brands.

The 1.4tsi hybrid on Octavia IV and Superb IV doesn't have ACT. The 1.4tsi hybrid has been around a long time, started with the Golf GTE I think.

Not sure but I think some later Octavias had the 1.4tsi with ACT (CZEA engine) whereas earlier didn't have ACT. ACT gives a nice uptick in economy at motorway speeds on level roads when in 2 cylinder mode (eco mode). Whether it had that engine variant may have been higher spec dependent .

Drivers assistance pack includes ACC, check its not switched off in the infotainment or on the driver assistance page of the maxidot.

Your pads are 19.5mm thick so are the correct thickness, you haven't pushed the piston back fully. Try opening the bleed valve (11mm ring spanner) and you should be able to push the piston back with your fingers, the piston goes well back. Or you havent pushed the pad clips fully back into the piston when fitted, or put the wrong pad into the piston end (see below about clip identification) If your pads are near the limit (under 3 or even 4 mm) you risk a failing the MOT. In practice, an MOT tester has limited time and often cannot or will not measure pad thickness accurately, they will simply look at it and use their judgement. If the disc is badly lipped and/or grooved with the pad sitting snugly in the grooves, it may appear to him the pad is too thin and simply will fail it. They cannot risk passing what is now classed a dangerous fault (you wont be able to drive the car away legally until its fixed if that's the case). It wouldn't surprise me if the MOT tester fails it for having obvious mixed pads as an unsafe or dangerous modification 1.1.21 (d) Braking system component modification: (i) unsafe (ii) adversely affecting braking performance Major Dangerous Old pads and discs probably are worn unequally across a face with grooves/ridges/unequal thickness from hub to edge. The pad you move to a different position with not mate with the new disc face. So you will have a significant imbalance left/right until all pads bed back in, which at best will take a long time as worn pads are much harder than new at worst will never bed in. Not sure how an old pad reacts to having to work (hard) in the opposite direction its been used before, many materials tend to develop a direction memory. 30% imbalance = major 50% imbalance = dangerous Too risky. Do the job properly and change all the pads. If you cant do it, get someone who can. An hours labour at most independents or quick fit type places if they will accept you supplying your own pads. Note: Not sure what disc size you have, but on our bog standard Octavia with 280mm discs, (FSIII) the 4 pads may look at first glance identical, but are in fact two sets of 2. The spring clips on the backing plates are slightly different depending on whether its fitted on the piston side or the outer side. Get them the right way round otherwise ime you'll find your brakes develop an annoying squeel! In the pic below the one on the left with the curved clips on all 3 prongs is the piston side.