xman

Used to be white was the no cost option on VAG cars. Now its regarded as a premium colour, go figure. I agree that the energy blue has been carefully chosen to encourage people put their hands in their pockets and choose something less painful on the eye.

Low or no oil pressure will mean the hydraulic chain tensioners are not held tight and the cam phasers unable to operate correctly. I would be checking the oil pickup, oil pump and the pump chain drive. Checking the 2 timing chains and 2 tensioners would be next.

Glad you solved it. An inspired guess or some logical tracing with your meter? Often a dash lit up like a Xmas tree is a temporary phenomenon due to low or disconnected battery. A drive around often extinguishes most lights, and an OBD reset should do the rest. But thankfully you didn't involve a dealer to recover the car and attempt to fault find, they could have been mega expensive, changing all sorts of random expensive bits along the way until they either give up or you run out of money

Simply slipping in a modern engine will not automatically make it Euro compliant, unless it is an engine that is included in the Felicia pickup type approval (none of which are Euro 4 compliant petrol or Euro 6 diesel) you will need to have it type approved and tested to an applicable Euro standards at a test house that is certified to carry out such testing. Then convince DVLA to change section D2 of the V5 document to show Euro compliance and or emission data, again doubtful as they dont fill that in for old vehicles. Dont forget that you will need an Euro compliant ECU with all the looms, fuseboxes, an instrument cluster with appropriate emission warning lights, CAT, DPF and possibly SCR (if diesel), EVAP system, and numerous other sensors and emission control devices. And in the end, I suspect ULEZ will simply look at date of first registration and say no. Before you even start, contact ULEZ and ask if this is even possible and what evidence is required. You may then need to contact DVLA and DVSA and seek their opinion.

Superbs with 18 or 19 inch wheels don't float over potholes even with DCC. They always crash badly. They will remind you loudly where the joints in the road are too. Floaty and wallowy is standard on Superbs. The DCC 3 basic settings just change bounciness and harshness in inverse proportion. And only by a little bit. Wished I didn't spend so much on DCC. Especially when I read on Briskoda increasingly about DCC shockers failing and how much they cost to replace.

I supposed youve tried the spare key, and made sure the car is in P if its an automatic?

No idea, but such things exist.

I wonder if the car has an third party remote immobiliser fitted and hidden away somewhere that you've triggered by removing a fuse? If you bought the car within the last 30 days from a dealer or trader, then it may be easier to just let them fix it under the Consumer rights Act 2015. Don't tell them what you've done though!

I think you should concentrate for now on position 17 (instrument cluster fuse) thats probably where the addon was inserted. I wonder if you accidently pushed the fuse receptacles back when inserting a fuse slightly off true. Is there any power on fuse 17 when you turn ignition on? Have you a multimeter? Check the battery voltage, is it healthy, above 12v? Maybe the battery is flat. Fuses should be continuity checked by meter, a visual check may be misleading.

Check all relays are pushed home and you didnt dislodge one. You have checked the fuses arent blown? (Meter?)

Fuse 17 is instrument cluster, does the cluster light up or do something when you turn on ignition? Check the fuse style you used (orange fuse) is correct, its possible it may be micro or mini, different blade sizes and positioning

Photo of fuse box would be helpful.

Try plugging the box back in. It may be linked somehow to the immobiliser.

Agm batteries require a slightly higher charging voltage to EFB. I believe you need to change the battery type setting from EFB to Fleece (not AGM)* using a diagnostic tool to take this into account. Changing the serial no. resets the SOH so that the battery manangement assumes a new battery has been fitted. *Fleece is another name for AGM+ which uses modified construction and requires even higher charging voltages than traditional AGM.

First change the plugs, and check/change the plug leads, particularly number 3 lead which is usually internally damaged due to heat from the exhaust shield, especially if it is not "marten" protected, (inside a corrugated plastic trunking, as fitted after 2012). A multimeter should show the leads have around 9k ohm series resistance or if copper core replacement leads have been fitted, much lower. A damaged lead will be much higher resistance, often open circuit. In some cases the coil pack may also be damaged due to over voltage caused by faulty open circuit leads causing it to break down internally (tracking), sometimes its evident externally. Fortunately all parts are relatively cheap, when obtained anywhere other than a Skoda dealer.

Are you sure its the front brakes? Its usually the rear brakes with rusty inner faces which you don't see, very common as the Superb rear discs/pads are (allegedly) made out of low grade cheese supplied to skoda by an anonymous ebay supplier from China. You can try cleaning them up with heavy braking, more effective is to apply the electronic parking brake at a suitable high speed 40mph+ a few times. Be warned though, this is a rather heart stopping experience. Only attempt it on a good straight road with no other road users around. You may want to try it first at a lower speed so you know what to expect. You need to pull the button up and hold, if you let go, the brakes will release straight away. Note that the EPB applies the rear brakes only. If they are too far gone then its time to strip clean and fit new. I would recommend you consider ceramic pads such as those from ATE. These leave a thin coating of carbides on the disc surface that helps to stop them rusting, keep them shiny and silent. Also low dust https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-ceramic-brake-pads/

If you disconnect/reconnect an airbag, the warning light remains on until you reset it using a diagnostic tool.

I've always wondered about this, most public chargers I've seen are out in the open, no cover, including Tesla. Can just see the picture on a stormy day with the wind and rain blowing sideways as owners try to connect a dirty wet tethered plug/ cable and use a touch screen on the charger working with rain or snow blowing against it. Note that IP ratings will only apply once connenctors are fully engaged and I presume they assume the connection was made while everything was dry and clean. Even then, the flap on the car needs to remain open while charging. One would hope that chargers of any description are fully safe and protected against earth leakage, residual current leaks, bad/dirty/high resistance connections and overcurrent/short circuit. High power 600v dc would be instantly fatal if somehow a person became even slightly connected. Cables and insulation gets damaged. Time will tell how much of a problem this will be. Apparently thefts of cables are on the increase.

Well it has, sort of, but only up to 8 years (warranty) iirc. Toyota standard warranty is being reduced from 5 years to 3 years. The 10 yr you refer to is if you have your Toyota serviced and maintained to their requirements at a Toyota dealer whereby you get an automatic additional warranty extension upon completion of the official toyota service/maintenance. If you go to an independent you don't get any warranty. https://mag.toyota.co.uk/toyota-warranty-how-it-works/ VAG including Skoda have introduced a similar slightly more complex equivalent. If you commit to a 2 year "all in" service package and have the recommended maintenance done by a dealer, you will get an additional 2 year warranty and free breakdown cover. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan As usual the devils in the small print. Eligibility, exclusions, does not cover this, that etc etc and all faults must be repaired and recommended maintenance carried out..... Read the small print carefully... All carefully designed to keep dealers in work and extract the cash.......

@MartiniB Would be useful if you could list checksums (SHA-1, SHA-256) as well as links so people can check for corrupt or incorrect files.

I have an MY18 Superb with Columbus and Traffic sign recognition. It is extremely good at picking up signs on side roads even if they are set back 10+ metres and at 90 degrees to your direction of travel. So I am constantly being reminded that I'm breaking a 20mph limit, even though I'm on a 40/50/60 mph road. Its far less good at seeing the small signs stuck on lamposts or if a sign is less than 99% clean. It's often/mostly blissfully unaware of the NSL/end of restriction (black diagonal on white backgound) lit up on a smart motorway overhead gantry. Pity anyone if TSR is linked in any way to predictive ACC or automatic speed limiting which is due to be imposed on us by the EU soon. Caravans will then no longer seem to be the enemy.

Axial is side to side!! That video shows its worn, thats all. You haven't shown its axial, radial, end float or anything else. Just that its wobbly.

Item 3 is the oil level sensor. You'll need full engine details to find/check the part no. of the sensor. AFAIK it can be changed without removing the sump although the oil will need to be drained. This is possibly the part, but check 04L 907 660 C or 03C 907 660 G https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04l907660c-oil-level-sensor-hella-30794.html The oily deposits around the top of the sump look like the usual old oily leaks that are normal on older diesels and they've been there for a long time before the incident. If its a 2.0tdi engine, possibly like the one below, then it looks like the oil sump guard is missing. IIRC Scouts usually came fitted with sump guards (plastic I think) https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/1/103-103020/ Edit: I've removed a sentence from my reply as on re-reading the original post properly, I realised the smoke was not coming from the sensor , so ignore what I originally said about the sensor being damaged.

The kit shown above is a single lever jack as used on Octavias and below. The jack supplied by Skoda for a Superb is a heavier duty scissor jack. The jacking points on the Superb 3 are further inboard than an Octavia, and have a deeper plate , its not just on the sill lip like the octavia, so I wonder if that jack will fit properly around the jacking point and lift up the body where its supposed to. The shape style of the mating end is completely different and symmetrical iirc. Some pics in this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/443549-additional-jack-points/?do=findComment&comment=4986932

Unlikely that its in 2 cylinder mode at idle, the vibration would be horrendous. IIRC VAG documents state that 2 cylinder mode is only activated above 1400rpm and less than 25% of max torque. The ECO symbol probably comes on when either coasting mode or 2 cylinder mode is active. Not sure about your car, but on mine, if you have a fuel consumption screen up on the maxidot, it will show a text message "2 cylinder mode" when that is active as well as the eco symbol.