xman

On the estate/combined you simply remove the interior tailgate trim. The light is held in by 2 plastic nuts.

Pics would be nice so others can see what's what. From your description it sounds as if both the radar unit and its mounting is damaged. In which case I would be inclined to go through insurance. Tell the other party you are looking at over 1500 pounds worth of damage to the radar, associated hardware, labour and an expensive recalibration. The genuine unit is €875+ or more Add to that labour, bear in mind that only Skoda dealers can fit it due to component protection. There may be other damage behind the bumper for instance. Then ADAS calibration costing up to £700 depending who does it.

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The revised oil capacity is by virtue of redesigned oil galleries and block, you cannot upgrade your sump, they are the same. Ignition leads look like this https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f905430c-ignition-cables-1-2tsi-skoda-23861.html NGK44316 (NGK are the OE supplier) https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/ngk-7004939.html

Nice and clean!! Googling images of Cbzb engines show some with one screw, other with two. Different turbochargers have been fitted during production. I'd hazard a guess the turbo has been off or even changed and a new gasket seal fitted, one that had only one fitting for the heat shield https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f253041l-turbocharger-seal-de-32364.html I see the leads are nice and new NGK, not OE leads (also made by NGK but not marked as such which also had some thick sleeving in parts going over the stainless pipes.. Regarding top timing chain cover, the one you may have seen with a built in chain guard was an ineffective stop gap measure and not the final solution. The upgrade kit doesnt have or need that as the chain skips on the bottom sprocket rather than the top. The upgrade kit has a wider chain with a different link configuration, new sprockets revised guides and redesigned tensioner. This is the new kit, all parts need to be replaced on engines built before Oct 2011 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f198229a-timing-set-1-2tsi-63kw-77kw-skoda-25113.html Here are pics of the old set, you can see the old top sprocket has the part no 03F 109 571C the new sprocket part no is 03F 109 571F Lots of info and pics showing the differences between original kit A and new kit B here

Is the ACC still not working? Whats the error message? Is the ACC symbol red or orange? Looking at the pics possibly just an alignment issue with something bent, maybe even a cross member so difficult to second guess without it being assessed by someone with knowledge. From other threads I've read, these radar units tend to be mounted on springs on the mounts, sometimes they get knocked a skew and stick rather than spring back, its just a case of pulling them back to the correct position. Maybe remove that cover and inspect? Try and record, at least document any conversations. If they refuse to give insurance details, I'd smell a rat, probably not insured or someone driving not covered. That could cause you further problems if you claim. https://www.askmid.com/askmidenquiry.aspx First step in diagnosis is to plug in an OBD reader and scan for errors. A good one like OBD eleven or VCDS will let you go into the ACC subsystem and you'll be able to glean what the problem is

Gridserve state all their chargers are powered by 100% pure sunshine. Presumably they close down at night. https://gridserve.com/ev-power-overview/ Well, as a sceptic, I suspect plenty of BS is at play in their marketing blurb. I also suspect that hubs where there are a number of high power 350kW chargers, need to intelligently share what energy Gridserve may have access to at any given moment in time. Every power utility and his dog seems claims they sell 100% green power. But plainly, that is simply not possible.

I'll try and explain. Don't get hung up about a "negative earth". The spark plugs are all connected to "chassis" historically mistakenly referred to as "ground" or "earth" which no car actually is connected to. Chassis is battery zero volts. When one of the transistors shown above closes the circuit (as contact points would do), current builds up in the primary winding and generates a magnetic field in the iron core. When it opens, the current is interrupted and the magnetic field collapses causing a large back emf (voltage spike) to appear at the primary as the magnetic field is looking for a way to release its energy, generating several hundred volts at the transistor collector. This is reflected in the secondary winding which acts as a transformer, multiplying it up to many kV. Because of the secondary circuit configuration, one end of the secondary winding will spike positive and the other negative, both gaps will spark over and current flows only in one direction until the energy stored in the magnetic field is dissipated. So one tip goes very positive, current flowing from tip to ground electrode (which is at chassis potential) and the other tip goes very negative, current flowing from ground electrode (at chassis potential) to tip. To add some confusion, the electrons responsible for the spark plasma, actually flow in the opposite direction to the current, its the flow of electrons out of an electrode that errode it. If you don't believe me, get an oscilliscope and check, but remember we're talking several kV here.... Hope that description helps... Some homework https://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/circuits/Lesson-2/Electric-Current

If the sealant looks sloppy around the cam chain covers its likely the chain has been changed, hopefully for the latest full upgrade kit including latest hydraulic tensioner. Very common on early CBZA/CBZC engines. Watch out for loud prolonged machine gun rattles on cold starts, switch off immediately and then try a restart. Indicates the hydraulic tensioner has backed off and/or chain is stretched. High possibility of the chain jumping on the bottom sprocket or even coming off completely. Early revisions of the chain drive were both poor in design and of poor quality. So a revised design introduced over the course of 2012. More details elsewhere on this forum. A slight rattle that only lasts a second or so is nothing too much to worry about. You get that even with the revised kit, but even then I'm inclined to switch off immediately and restart to allow the chain to align. Usually its nice and quiet on a restart. In any case, avoid forcing the engine backwards, e.g. parking facing uphill in a forward gear. This pulls the return side of the chain into tension and stresses the tensioner which can slip back and even strip the internal ratchet and push it back and the chain goes slack. So if you must park in gear then, if facing uphill, select reverse, or downhill, select first. Hope you understand the reasoning. Another thing to check is whether the small PCV valve (about £16) has broken off. Situated in the back of the camvcover near the right, gearbox end, often found hanging on the rubber hose attached the airbox. Again common on earlier engines and more detail available on this forum. Check the ignition leads all read the same resistance (OE cables in 2011 are 9k ohm), reason being that cable to No.3 plug specifically often goes open circuit due to heat damage but the engine continues to work normally due to sparking internally, however this results in highly elevated voltages at the coil pack which then eventually breaks down. New coil pack and leads are not that expensive (avoiding the dealer) Later engines are fitted with leads that have corrugated sheathing called "marten protection" which also conveniently protect the leads from excessive heat. Otherwise, an excellent engine. (I shan't mention turbo actuators, I don't want to frighten you unnecessarily)

Ping! Red, Amber.....tell them you're double vaccinated

Your car has a waste spark ignition system. This fires spark plugs in pairs, 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. Electrically one plug gets a positive sparking voltage, the other in the pair gets a negative sparking voltage so current flows in opposite directions in the two plugs. Because of this, electrode spark erosion wear is greatest at the tip in one plug and at the ground electrode at the other. The plugs have an iridium alloy tip, which are incredibly tough and suffer very little wear, but the ground electrode has a welded platimum alloy disc, which is less tough, and after a while the disc often becomes detatched and you are down to the steel ground electrode to take the spark errosion. The rusting on the bodies is due to an external problem, water from somewhere. Looks and could be serious, it is not normal. Is the heat shield removed? Looks like a leak from somewhere in the vicinity, as the turbo is water cooled, check for leaks around the stainless pipes that feed water into the turbo. Alternatively it may be just because of their age. 10 yrs is a long time. Maybe you had a period where the car was subjected to lots of water or stood for a long while. Just monitor the replacements.

Volvo made a good first move by limiting its new cars to 111.8 mph. Doubt its made any difference to sales. Next should be to limit all new cars in UK to say 77mph (max motorway limit +10%) Lorries do fine with speed limiters so why not cars. We'd all soon complain if HGVs were passing us at 70+mph. Then make it work like the speed limiters fitted to lots of cars with option to make the speed limit adaptable (from gps/tsr) which also means some kind of nav system is required.

Some BS from Rory there, if a car sees (erroneously) a 90 mph speed limit sign in a 30mph zone, and the ACC is on, it will accelerate to 90mph! Really?? After telling us it will be all about nagging us rather than taking control.

17,000 miles is rubbish! All our cars including 2 fabia mk2 manage at least 30,000 on the front , on Vredestein, Michelins, Bridgestones, Goodyears even Continentals though they wore the quickest. Some have managed 40,000 miles. I put a pair of original CC (not CC+) on the mk2 fabia 1.2tsi estate about 5 or 6 yrs ago then later moved them to the mk 2 1.2htp hatch and something like 60,000 miles or more clocked up (approx 50% of which on front and 50% rear) they still have a ridiculous amount of tread left but they have got very noisy. Got some Vredestein Quatracs waiting to replace them soon. The fabia size is 195 55R15, I replace when down to between 2-2.5mm We did have a mk1 htp fabia like yours, which iirc had 185 60R14 tyres. Still recall over 30,000 being acheived on the fronts, they were Continental Premium Contact 2 Get your steering geometry checked. Costs around £60 at places like Kwikfit which usually have Hunter alignment rigs. 17000 miles is rubbish.

Did you exchange details with the SUV driver? Did they go away thinking no damage was done? Any CCTV where it happened? Whats the excess on your insurance (voluntary plus compulsory) Is your NCD protected? Is the sensor cover damaged or dirty?

There may be hidden damage, considering the high cost of repairing and ADAS calibrating ACC, I would be looking at making an insurance claim against the guy who reversed into you. Two options, go through your insurance company, you will need to pay your excess and rely that the third pary admits liability and so you'll get that back. Or go directly to the SUV drivers insurer and get them to pay for the repair. Because they reversed into you, it could be disputed, so be prepared for a fight, and if you have legal cover in your cover, you may need to use it. It incidents like this where a Dashcam comes in handy. I read that calibration alone costs hundreds of pounds. A new radar is super expensive,can only be fitted by official Skoda dealers due to component protection, possibly unobtainable at the moment then you might need other front end bits, grill, even bumper if mounts are broken and geometry is out. If for some reason you can't or don't want to go through insurance, then after having a good look around checking for loose or damaged bits, you probably first need to remove the sensor cover and checking if the radar unit is not damaged or its mounts damaged, bent or broken, which I think are adjustable. There is a thread in this section with pics of the sensor cover detached which might help you.

How is your scenario any different to someone breaking down, runs out of petrol or a car going into limp mode, or an EV suddenly slowing when its battery management panics? It is called Intelligent Speed Assist - I see no mention that it can't be overriden or take ultimate control away from the driver

Cylinder 4 is furthest away from the auxiliary belt

Steer clear of smart motorways then. If it depends on the traffic sign recognition (TSR) fitted to my Superb then I would end up going 20mph everywhere near a built up area as it's better at reading road signs down the side roads to my left rather than the signs straight ahead. If someone rear ends you its the responsibility of the person hitting you from behind. (Unless you consented of course ) Of course you missed the bit that says it can be overriden, just push your right foot down, just like ACC or PCC.

Milk splitting

As @e-Roottoot points out, mandatory kit is mandatory. Personally I'm all for it. I am a law abiding citizen and anything that helps me stay within the law and avoid fines and penalty points is ok by me. If only they could introduce a system to stop idiots modifying cars to make excessively loud noises and belch out all manner of black fumes and pollution More EU mandatory kit coming

Isn't that what you wanted? You spent a long time arguing thats what we must do to avoid catastrophe. So if I break down on a motorway I can sue the government?

Yup those pesky thermionic valves take a while to warm up. What BS