xman

Well take it into your dealer and complain

On really stubborn bits I first wash the glass thoroughly with generous amount of washing up liquid and rinse off with water, dry with kitchen paper roll. Maybe repeat. Then use brake cleaner and rub virgorously with kitchen paper roll. Only do a small area at a time, stand to the side, look at the reflection to see where the patches of contamination are and whether youve made any impression. Throw used paper and use fresh frequently. Probably would work with something like iso proyl alcohol. Rewash screen Bit more faff if cleaning the inside of the screen, and contamination more stubborn. Do NOT use this method on the inside of a heated screen as I've read the heater film is easily damaged.

May not be your problem but many mk2 fabias around 2013 developed creaky sticky steering when slow manoeuvring and performing full turns. This was down to faulty steering (aka track) rods, the ball joints at the steering rack end had been filled with the wrong kind of grease which dried out and they rusted. More noticeable when hot and dry. Track rods replaced under warranty and TSB. Don't have access to the TSB, Skoda keep these secret.

The fields around where I live used to be full of wheat, barley, peas, potatoes, other seasonal crops. Now they are full of this stuff Up to 3m high, some fields now 4 years in a row. Getting higher each year, maybe more nitrogen phosphate? No crop rotation anymore. Owned by the council. Those not being planted with this are being sold to developers

Does the superb have a similar silly handbrake console cover arrangement to a mk2 octavia? That has a sliding ribbon cover that easily jams in its track and impedes handbrake movement. Check and lubricate with silicon spray. There is a repair guide in the Octavia mk2 if its jamming. How many clicks? IME dealers make them too tight at 2 clicks and its difficult to pull hard when the handbrake is virtually horizontal. To access and see the T bar cable puller I referred to earlier, remove the rear ashtray and its holder in the centre console. Check both cables move equally and the t bar doesn't skew. Adjust with a small 10mm open ended spanner. I think its best at 4-5 clicks, the higher the handbrake setting makes it easier to apply more tension to the cables which are in effect tension springs that will accomodate small changes in disc thickness when they cool? It also ensures the pads release fully when you put the handbrake down, which ime in the Octavia is not always a positive action due to that silly sliding ribbon.

There has been an abnormal amount of fuel tanker activity at our local Sainsbury's. Seems I see them every two or three days, sometimes daily. Recently even a Greenergy branded tanker!

Dsg versions have a DMF which can disguise engine judder. Another thing to check, IIRC there have been several reports with this engine of loose injectors caused by snapped retention bolts. Usually accompanied by fuel leaking/smell.

Often I find the calipers have long ceased to slide as corrosion and baked on crud on the pad/caliper parts that are meant to slide have effectively seized them. So you end up with only one side of the disc braking. Add to that a tendency for the pads to only work in a restricted, grooved part of the disc Example Also the brake lever on the caliper can seize, needs freeing up, and the brake cables can rust internally near the cable ends, which doesn't help. Assuming you have a manual handbrake check the T bar adjuster located behind the internal handbrake, when you pull the handbrake on that both cables move equally, and one side isn't seized or having trouble. In short, strip, clean, renew bits, lubricate and check all parts are moving as they should. Remember hot discs contract when they cool so a tight handbrake can become loose when it cools down. If your brakes are dragging, they will get stinking hot. Must have been quite an incline if the car still moved while in 1st gear. Remember to turn front wheels such as the car will move to a safe position e.g. kerb, if brakes fail to hold.

The new Quatrac (6) is now directional. Tread patten is kind of cross between the Michelin and Goodyear. I have a pair to throw onto our Fabia in a few weeks. Made in Hungary whereas previous Quattrac 5 I bought were made in the Netherlands. Noted that their EU noise rating not as good as Quatrac 5, but don't let that metric mislead you as I dont think its at all related to internal cabin noise. I note that Quatrac Pro, also recently launched, is non directional all season but I've read some negative comments in tyre tests/reviews.

My experience on a Fabia estate, which may not be representative, with the original crossclimates are they very hard wearing. In my case they also wore unevenly with the inner tread wearing much quicker than the outer plus they became very noisy. One developed strange non circular wear leading to a wump wump wump noise at low speeds and an anoying drone when braking. They also developed a lot of micro cracking in the tread valleys, something I've noticed with other Michelin tyres. I put most of this down to the hard compound that becomes harder with age/wear. Could be my dealer has misaligned the car (they did it 4 times over the period we had it), they are certainly capable of that. I did put Goodyear All seasons gen 3 on our Octavia Estate, they felt softer and squidgier than the crossclimates on the fabia. Again some uneven wear noted. Maybe the car to blame. NB these and most all season tyres are directional, so not suitable as a spare. My go to tyre is usually Vredestain Quatrac 5 which is asymmetric, not directional. Had several, none has worn strangely or got too noisy. They are getting more difficult to buy, I think they may be being phased out. Personally I think the Michelins and Goodyears are over priced, so now look at mid range tyres instead.

Check the bulbs first! Our old Mk1 fabia, both fog lights reported at MOT not working, turned out both bulbs failed, by the looks of them due to vibration as they were clear and the filaments detached.

The bodyshop should have done a full body geometry and steering alignnent check as part of their assessment before they quoted. Your cosmetic damage was evidently far more than that. The body was distorted, so the steering geometry is out and the ACC would be rendered inoperative. Afaik there is no such thing as a log of when the ACC went faulty, only that there are errors associated with it. They have not done their job properly and now realise it, trying to pass the buck as the insurance has all been agreed based on the bad quote and work done. Get the insurance involved and complain the job has not been done properly. I dont think any adjustment is possible at the rear if its like our fabia which has a fixed rear beam axle welded direct to the body. They would have to pull the body back into shape, not always possible even if they have the equipment, so it could even be a write off insurance wise.

I have never had to lubricate my car doors ever in 50 years of car ownership. Or put grease or copperslip on battery terminals for that matter.

Its 7p per litre more everywhere I look.

Could you have contaminated fuel? Another check is the T piece valve that fits in the top of the filter, check there is an O ring on the part under it that fits into the filter top. IIRC if this is missing, air is drawn in and causes running and starting issues. You may need to scan the car for error codes.

https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/problem-diagnosis/accessory-drive-system/tvd-failure-signs

IME EA211 1.2tsi is a bit jerky when first started from cold for a couple of minutes. I think this is due to rich running while the CAT is being warmed. Persistent idle judder, if you've eliminated ignition may be down to a failed vibration damper, integral to the crankshaft pulley.

If the fuel filter has a drain tap, then drain off any water, which may be the reason behind the misfires. If its been a long time since the fuel filter was changed, then change it.

Insurance or maybe phone a mobile dent fixing company, google your options. Surprising what they can do.

The drums are self adjusting. Do not adjust via the handbrake aduster in the centre console. Once your shoes are self adjusted correctly, you can tweak the handbrake adjuster so you have more or less clicks to full on. Mine is set at 6 clicks, dealers like to convince you that it needs to be at 2 clicks (for which they want £30 or more for a 2 minute job), but that means the brakes will probably drag and be prone to the stuck on after parked syndrome.

Auto wipers are useless, all in the same league as the rear audio assist (electronic voice amplification aka echo) and digital assistant/voice control and hand gesture detection... (on Columbus)

You don't need to remove the heat shield to remove the spark plugs. You just need the correct tools, a proper lead plug puller and either a T bar 16mm plug spanner or better a Thin wall 16mm spark plug socket. Agreed you can save 5 mins if the air filter cover was clipped, but not really a big problem undoing 4 screws. Pollen filters really are easy to change. Your 1.2tsi at least has the oil filter on top which with the right tool is easy peasy to remove. And the sump plug is easy to reach with only a little lift from your spare wheel jack on the drivers side which is needed to slide an oil catch can. Later EA211 engines are far more difficullt with oil filter down low, need to remove the under cover and jack up to access. And engine hardware to remove to access plugs and more complex air filter housing arrangement.

Make sure Autohold is On. Its the button with an A inside a brake symbol, bottom row, left of the gear lever

I have the same problem with my MY18 Superb with Columbus. The pathetic 3 band EQ is set with treble almost to minimum. Mid is pretty useless as there seems to be a black hole or bad response somewhere in the mid range of the speaker system. Varying degrees of harshness with the mid control. Columbus is like a £1600 upgrade option over Amundsen, never mind Bolero and it only has 3 band EQ? I seen pics here on Briskoda that the tweeter crossover is a simple electrolytic (probably non bipolar!) capacitor badly soldered directly to the tweeter. I personally think the cap (6.8uf springs to mind) is too large a value/ wrong type and the tweeter is being grossly overdriven as well as not crossing at the correct frequency. I doubt the main speakers have an equivalent crossover to cut the top drive. Primitive setup with terrible mid. My solution is to simply turn the radio off, most of the stations just pump out the same old payola dirge, with verbal diarrhea from shouty DJs who constantly laugh at their own non jokes and the most annoying ads that seem to go on forever. Who wants to listen to that? Gone are my days of designing and building high quality amps and speakers when I used to be in a band. No way I am stripping my newish car to get to a tweeter. I've seen how botched the speaker installations are in older cars. And the tweeters are possibly glued in nowadays or plastic melted over pins. The speakers are probably Chinese ****e anyway. Here's an Octavia 3 guide to tweeter modding

Call me a sceptic. I have doubts that a 3rd party retrofitter can or would fit a full factory equivalent system. As I understand it, in 2021, hardware and software changes are now protected by a sophisticated system . Can't remember what they call it. So gone are the days of activating options using an OBD eleven or VCDS on any recent model fitted with MIB3. AFAIK there needs to be activation by the factory servers using official Skoda diagnostic equipment no doubt and permissions from Skoda. I may be completely wrong, I certainly hope you get what you paid for. As it is I would think some substantial compensation on top of a retrofit is in order for all the hassle you have had and still have while this is sorted. IF you are expected to pay the 3rd party retrofitter before the dealer refunds you, get a written agreement signed with your dealer beforehand to save any future hassle/arguments. And make sure it's all ADAC calibrated and tested before money changes hands. I personally would have rejected the car as soon as I realised the ACC I paid for was missing. Good luck.