xman

The charge ports are different and incompatible to prevent R134a being used in R1234yf systems. It is also illegal to do so, at least in the UK and across the EU. If you manage to somehow do it and fill or partly fill your system with R134a, any R1234yf recovery machines will automatically stop and refuse to recover your gas as they have a system to check whether the gas is contaminated, so that might leave you scratching your head.

No, wrong.....504.00 and 508.00 are both petrol engine oil specs. 507.00 and 509.00 are diesel engine oil specs But generally oils come in 504.00/507.00 or 508.00/509.00 so each can be used in petrols and diesels, provided that the engine is allowed to use that particular spec. 508/509 is not backward compatible so shouldn't be used in older designs of engines. Always check compatibility before using. https://360.lubrizol.com/Specifications/Volkswagen

How many turns did you try?

Look at the wall while you adjust.

There are two white nylon adjusters on each headlight adjustable with a 5 or 6mm allen key. If you have a diagnostic tool (OBD eleven VCDS) you are supposed to place the headlights into basic settings mode. Then adjust the headlight adjusters, the inner ones adjust up/down and the outer ones left/right. Finally cancel the basic settings mode. Some members have adjusted their headlights without bothering with the diagnostic tool, although this risks the various AFS/SLA modes to move to the wrong positions. I'm afraid all that stuff you've posted about coding etc is beyond me.

First check your lights do the calibration "dance" on start up, they may be stuck in the down position, a known problem. Below is a video of what to expect, it show the SLA sequence, but the standard AFS setup is similar.

Take another photo with the front of the car 5 meters away from the wall.

Are your headlights on? I can hardly see anything. Maybe they are way too low. How far away from the wall is the car?

They're not supposed to be adjusted, I'm fairly certain they are fixed.

Take another photo with the car at least 10 metres away from the wall, all on level ground, and with the camera exposure reduced as the photo above is overblown and you cant see anything meaningful. What problem do you think you have? Lights too low?

Its an option for an Audi A6

My guess is its a dry solder joint in the relay. Either change the relay or if you have the right skills, open it up, inspect the solder joints and re-solder any dodgy looking joints. Requires soldering tools and skills of course. What is a "revised feld"? Try a different translation

Reject the car asap, something very seriously wrong with the engine. Keep the pictures as evidence. As suggested, call Skoda assist.

Still convinced the tyres might be fitted wrong way round for those poor mpg figures. Michelin are normally in the top tier for fuel economy. I wonder if your geometry is way out and the bridgestones being non directional tolerated or adapted to it. All season tyres are always going to handle much softer than a summer tyre because of the softer compounds and more flexible tread patterns. Lets see what the tyre centre says.

Strange you mention that. We took a test drive in an Octavia 1st edition SE estate. As a passenger in the front seat it was comfortable and fairly impressive. When I took a back seat (nsr) for the second half, within a minute or two I started feel extremely nauseous, ultimately leading to the dreaded car sickness memory I suffered from as a small child. Then it was due to a wallowy large car ( Ford Zephyr 6 mk3, live rear axle leaf springsl driven by my Dad who seemed to be forever correcting the steering whel right/left/right/left. In the Octavia I could detect it was gyrating, a circular sideways motion pitching left/right. I almost threw up. Won't be buying that particular car.

R1234yf gas as used in the latest cars is less effecient than the older R134a gas. Could be faulty or poor expansion valve. Could be the dealer hasn't investigated properly and perhaps a heater flap is not fully shutting off the heater when you dial LO Could be the variable pump is deliberately restricted output to meet WLTP/RDE carp. Could be undersized for the glass area of a Karoq Could be just lazy/incompetent dealer Could be lots of other things, but check your pollen filter, (as briskodians often say)

E-tech provides a short burst maximum of 50Nm of additional torque (only) when pulling away. The engine provides the majority of the motive force all of the time. Question is how much less maximum torque can the 1.5tsi develop than the 1.4tsi at idle/low rpm, thinking of WLTP complaint's and kangaroos. They may have tweaked it further down in this incarnation knowing that there is some assistance from e-tech.

If its a click on first application reversing, possibly another click when going from reverse/braking to going forwards and first brake application again, then possibly just the pads moving in the calipers, slightly loose fit. Usually more noticeable after new pads are fitted. Another thing you might check are the front springs. Check for a broken off pigtail at the top and the spring sitting over the top bearing instead of under it.

They are directional tyres, sounds like one or more are mounted the wrong way round. Will ruin handling, mpg and wear Check the direction of rotation arrow carefully on the sidewalls. The V pattern in the tread should be pointing in the forward direction of rotation.

MY18 1.4tsi SEL I definitely have a 75 litre tank, it is an option in some markets over the standard 66 litres but not in the UK where its available for the Audi A6. For some reason I got it for free, maybe due to production shortages, I can't check the PR codes as there is no sticker in the spare wheel well. The PR code being 1Z2 iirc I know it is 75 litres (nominal) as I have filled it to first click with 76 litres and 30 miles remaining. Also the range calculation ties in with fuel left divided by average mpg since refuelling closely. Ave mpg also ties in with my refill quantity closely each time. I often get 900+ mile range reported when driving is mostly motorway. I filled up with above, 57.79 litres to first click which for 719 miles is 56.6 mpg a 3 percent difference.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ymNRrD9WJr4

First check camshaft adjuster stuck/faulty or blocked oil feed. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ymNRrD9WJr4

Just read that mercedes now use CO2 (R744) air conditioning systems in some of their models. They are well known to be anti R1234yf, mainly as they consider it a flammable risk. https://polar-aircon.co.uk/r744-air-con-gas-replacement/

My mistake, R1234yf became mandatory in new cars from 2017. Also the culprits responsible for the excessive prices are Honeywell and Dupont, the patent holders. Convenient that EU insist we need the new gas just as Duponts patents on R134a expire.

Tyres on the drive (Halfords mobile service) currently do an R134a regas for £50, Kwikfit and F1 autocentres are just under £60 with occasional vouchers appearing reducing it to £50. Often, out of season, i.e. Winter time it will be £40 or even less. An F1 autocentre manager confided a couple of years ago that due to US patents expiring, R134a gas now costs peanuts and they could still make a profit at half the price. R1234yf gas as mandated in cars after 2015 is much more expensive (thanks to EU and US patent king Honeywell), the cheapest I've seen is £114 iirc, kwikfit is £130 Iso-Butane is called R600a gas in fridge land. Many modern fridges use this, is up to 50% more efficient and more ECO friendly than R134a but obviously highly flammable and not approved in automotive applications and potentially dangerous if it leaks. R600a will mix with R134a according to this paper and is more efficient than R134a on its own.