xman

Sounds very much as if the problem are the tyres you now moved to the rear.

You can buy a diagnostic OBD2 reader for £15

I would establish first if my car had a drink problem. Used to be they said you should check your oil regularly and every time before a long journey. This I still do, and I soon know when a car uses oil and roughly how much. Maximum I have seen is about 0.6 litres per 10,000 miles in the Octavia (150k miles), much less in the 3 other cars. I always have plenty of oil in my garage as I change the oil in 3 of the 4 cars myself. I don't carry oil in any car. If an oil warning light came on mid journey I would just pull in to the nearest garage buy some oil, and wonder if its too late anyway. But why buy an overpriced 1 litre can of oil when you can buy 5 litres at twice the price. Proper Fuchs stuff. I've a few empty 1litre cans (from the days they came free with new skodas) I can decant into if I wanted. And even a couple of those zip up skoda oilcan pouches with velcro fasteners. I suppose I might use one if I am ever allowed to drive across Europe again.

If your wheels needed rebalancing again then your tyres are probably) internally faulty and damaged. Suspect the oldest tyres that are still fitted. After all, one mysteriously failed on sidewall without warning or external damage. Must have been a faulty tyre, and one of the set you had fitted. If a tyre has been repaired after a puncture, the internal mushroom plug or vulncanising can become detatched and the wheel will feel all wobbly, been there and experienced that!

Why not worry when your car actually looks as if it needs topping up. It should have been supplied fully filled. They are supposed to check at PDI. Many if not most new cars will not need topping up before the first service. By that I mean they usually use less than 0.75 litres in 10,000 miles. Any 504 or 508 spec oil can be used for topping up, as the manual states.

What error code(s) does the diagnostic reader give?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting after a couple of minutes? What infotainment system is fitted? Have you tried a Hard reset? Is there a factory reset option buried in the menus? It may simply have a corrupted disk drive/coding, there is or are members here that can repair infotainment systems, try a search to find out who and pm them.

They are all EA211 engines, the TSI has a turbo charger and intercooler that increases torque and power output but basically the same design. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA211_engine

You need to leave even earlier then. About 30 minutes earlier. Doubtful a fast car will make any difference at all if traffic is the problem. A faster car will however be more prone to serious accidents and speeding tickets

Having worked in software development I can tell you that release schedules are, at best highly optimistic guesses, usually no more than a finger in the air to placate customers or investors. Obviously the people involved with MIB3 are pretty useless and incompetent developers with little or no quality testing in place. Don't expect any miracles or quick fixes.

Why bother? Plenty of internet radio apps that work on Android Auto and presumably Apple carplay

Skoda OE rear brakes are made out of cheese. If you decide to change them, use good quality discs and pads, Brembo maybe, or ATE. You might want to consider fitting ceramic brake pads, low dust, low disc wear and keeps discs and wheels shiny. (due to a fine carbide layer that is formed) Unlikely a Skoda dealer will want to fit anything other than their own supplied Skoda brie, so then you'll have to seek an alternative independent garage.

The ACC radar is behind the closed off section in the centre of the front radiator grill. You just need to give that cover a wipe. Front assist requires the windscreen mounted camera too, so that needs to be clean, but is easily cleaned by the windscreen wipers. Parking sensors are ultrasonic round things mounted in the front/rear bumper. If any are not working the car will let you know. Best not to poke around with these too much, careful when washing, avoid pressure washers. Rear assist and blind spot monitoring use 2 radar units mounted behind the rear bumper at the two ends facing the rear. Just keep the rear bumper reasonably clean in those areas.

My my18 1.4tsi manual Superb updates the range left as soon as I refill the tank, even before moving away from the pump. The estimated range is very much based on fuel tank capacity and the average consumption since last refill. Here is my recent consumption, all long motorway trips sat at legal limit with occasional road works and snarl ups. Showing a total range of over 900 miles, but then I have a 75 litre tank fitted for some inexplicable reason. Its an option in some countries, but not in the UK, they must have run out of the standard 66 litre tanks when they built mine!

Heavy rain usually or a build up of snow or dirt. Last week persistent moderate to heavy drizzle on the M1 with spray from lorries and cars was enough to take my ACC offline, restored after about 15 mins, several minutes after rain ceased. Had to resort to using speed limiter. An orange warning on the dash and a long bleep with a message along the lines of ACC radar sensor impaired or something, I can't remember the exact message.

On the Superb you can switch to speed limiter mode using the button under the cc stalk and rest your foot on the throttle pedal in a part position. Foot off and the car slows, foot to the floor overides the limiter. Aquaint yourself with speed limiter mode if you have it, useful around town, in areas where ACC struggles and you may find you need to use it when ACC becomes unavailable in adverse weather conditions.

Bearing in mind you spend most of your time riding inside your car rather than looking at it. If you value low road noise and ride comfort, I would stick with the 17 inch wheels. I certainly often wish I had downgraded from the standard 18” (pirelli P7) on my SEL which are bloody noisy and give a hard ride.

All explained here https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-99-skoda-1-8-tfsi-132kw-2-0-tfsi-162kw-ea888/ You can download the pdf by tapping on the page and a download icon will appear at the bottom of the frame.

On my Superb, it starts to accelerate if you indicate and pull out. Indicator obviously informs ACC that pulling out is probably an overtaking manoeuvre.

Electric oil valve may refer to the control valve for the cam adjusters, might explain the out of spec angle.

I doubt they would check. If asked, tell them thats how it came. Common for dealers to steal umbrellas to put into other cars when a customer complains.

https://www.scraprice.com/index.php?view=prices&cat=1&subcat=&country=12&cur=GBP

This may be of interest https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/oil-pressure-light-after-switching-to-revised-oil-filter-housing-adapter.9253937/

Agreed, even the copper washer can be reused several times if it was fitted correctly and not overtightened. A good 6mm hex socket, and a torque wrench set to 30Nm ideally. Don't try with an allen key as you're likely to round off the hex. Make sure to clean out the sump plug hex hole to the bottom with a small screwdriver as it often gets bunged up with muck that solidifies. Important to have it clean so the hex socket goes in fully to the bottom, otherwise you risk rounding it off, particularly if some gorilla overtightened it. Then you are farked. Don't touch the fuel filter unless you have running issues that indicate low fuel pressure. Never had to do one on any of our petrol fleet, most of which have done between 100k and 150k miles inc htp fabias. Air filter from any motor factor, Eurocarparts charge £6 for a Mahle (oe) filter probably you have one not far from you. They do cabin filters and spark plugs at good prices too. Free delivery over £15 Never heard of Ridex.

The locking ratchet retaining mechanism fails, so then relies on oil pressure