xman

I doubt that the state of the filter (which the op states is not wet) has much bearing on the misting, which as described sounds fairly normal bearing in mind how the a/c is being used then not but just the blower. If you can get under the car, take a long qtip or similar implement and poke up the a/c drain pipe to clear any blockage which may have built up due to lack of regular filter changes. I suppose back flushing water may help in bad cases. But a clean filter is always helpful with maintaining decent airflow and preventing bacteria/fungus entering the evaporator and so the dreaded smelly a/c. How quickly the a/c clears the screen depends on how much refrigerant is left in the system. So a re-gas may help if the a/c is weak. Turning off a/c 3 or 4 mins before the end of a journey but keeping the blower going helps stop the misting and a/c going smelly.

Works for these cars 😂 https://www.topgear.com/car-news/supercars/top-gears-top-9-best-go-faster-stripes

Have you checked battery voltage? Haveyou checked you have fuel in the tank, the fuel pump is working and delivering fuel? Checked ignition? Sparkplugs sparking? What engine? Petrol/Diesel, Engine code?

Whenever you use aircon, humidity in the air that passes through the evaporator (the cooling element in the heating/ventilation) condenses and the condensate water should drain out though the bottom mounted condensate drain tube. How much water depends on the humidity in the air (outside or inside if on recirc setting) Not all water manages to drain for a variety of reasons, perhaps partly blocked drain or a build up of debris or fungis/bacteria or just hanging on the evaporator fins. So when you restart the car after previously using ac, its normal for humid air to come out of the vents and mist up the screen initially. Turning on the ac will dry the air (water going elsewhere) and clear the screen. Alternatively turn the blower up to dry the evaporator out, how long it takes depends on the amount of water still in the evaporator. A good habit is to turn a/c off a few minutes before you complete your drive but leave the blower on to dry out the evaporater before you turn off the engine. This will stop bacteria, fungus and bad smells developing due to stagnant water in the evaporator when the car is stood. It also stops the initial misting you get when starting.

Might be this

Is it the bolt (in the wheel) or the locking key (pictured) you are after? Did you get the wheel bolt out or is that damaged too? As @Warrior193 states the key code is usually embossed on the other side. Example

I think they must also use the same technique on the 2.0tdi perhaps only on certain variants or model years. The screenshot I posted earlier was from a 2.0tdi EA288 engine.

You learn something new every day 🙂

I've read of quite a few 1.6tdi cambelt breaking, far more than normal and often shortly after having a cambelt change. I even witnessed one broken on a 2016 Superb less than 100m from our house. Company car owner claimed that the cambelt had been changed only 5000 or 6000 miles earlier. IIRC that car had just over 100,000 on the clock. So I am now thinking that "camlobe slippage" may be an issue on this particular engine and causing the cambelts to break. Must be a cost saving exercise if true.

Although I very much doubt the concept of individual lobes pulled onto a shaft, trawling Youtube vw 2.0tdi camshaft videos I see these close ups and wonder ??? I've also picked up on an American forum The RO states "removed timing cover & ensured crank, cam, and injection pump were timed correctly. suspect damaged camshaft, removed valve cover, found broken rocker arms & cam lobes out of phase. camshafts faulty and require replacement" https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/ea288-cam-issue-15-gsw.506452/

True, but if driving around on wet, dirty salted roads, then a blast from the hosepipe under the wheel arches, around the suspension, top of springs and brakes might slow the otherwise inevitable corrosion on normally unseen and poorly protected underbody components. I'd do it more often but can't get motivated. Too old I think.

I find that difficult to believe. I imagine the usual reason for rocker failure is piston valve contact. Often due to cambelt slippage or breakage. There is a procedure and special tools needed to set the camshaft timing. You'll need to follow the workshop manual procedure.

My TSR was factory fitted which I paid for. I placed the factory order and am the 1st owner. I am talking about a mk3 Superb with Columbus MIB2.5. On my car no subscriptions are required. I realise that its all different with MIB3 and the Octavia 4. Just pointing out there are better totally free options out there (Google Maps) and that TSR is not all its cracked up to be

I think you just need to tap it back, probably stuck fast on the turbo bracket.

I would consult the workshop manual before removing anything in case a special procedure is required to stop something dropping out. There is more than one item 8 fitted, looks it may be leaking from one of them.

Don't take my word as gospel but when I checked https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/768/3/311/311091 It looks suspiciously like a MQ250 gearbox items 6-8 see below.

Make your mind up, 1st you say the benefit of V2G whatever, you can go off grid and save money (standing charge), but then you say otherwise. I'll leave it at that.

Surprised you didn't include Brexit

I pay £1,029 inc vat and standing charge for 3211kWh annual consumption. Less from 1 April. Lets assume my yet to be purchased £50,000 Tesla can supply my home electricity needs at 90% round trip efficiency. So 3568kWh. I'll discount the cost of the trip to the charger and back and my time spent waiting or buying/consuming overpriced coffee and effect on my mental and physical health. Never mind VED, Insurance, S&M, depreciation cost. Lets assume the charger is always working and available. 3568 x 0.67 = £2391 pounds. Bargain, but how do I stop the ice cream melting in my freezer when I'm away?

How cheap is this Tesla electricity? Not sure Id want to drive to my nearest Tesla charger, spend half an hour or more to top it up then drive home every 3 or 4 days at best. Oops I forgot about my freezer and fridge and home heating. Especially when I go out for the day, or go away for a few days. Oh and what if I need to use the car to go anywhere a bit further? Yes another trip to the charger. All to save £200, I don't think so. Don't tell me your solar panels will help, not in winter or at night.

I'm sure there would be legal, insurance and tax implications. You might be even in breach of your contract with electricity companies or mortgage provider. Public liability, safety certificates, declaring income to the taxman. If you rent your property you'd certainly be in breach of your rental contract.

Might I suggest you consider this https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan I originally took an extended warranty but cancelled it after 9 months when they launched the all in scheme above on my dealer's advice. (Got a pro rata refund) The All In plan was far more cost effective (then it was £25 per month) offering 2 years warranty basically the same warranty as the Skoda extended warranty PLUS 2 services (which can be long life /variable but now must be carried out within a 3 year time frame) PLUS 2 MOTs PLUS Roadside assistance for 2 years by the AA. Can be transferred if you sell the car. Its more expensive now but still probably better value for money than an extended warranty. And as its for cars up to 6 years old you could get warranty cover up to 8 year old. In my case I renewed mine in Nov and I have cover till the car is 7¾ years old. Car does 18k per year so the service cover is ideal and for me the plan is as cheap as just paying for servicing in isolation. As official Skoda servicing is included it gives less scope for them to refuse warranty claims. Btw, you can have the 1st included service done straight away if you need it. Ask it be done on the longlife regime and then schedule the next to suit you. So maybe that will save you money too.

Never driven to Zero miles, I try to avoid unnecessary stress. I've seen 76 litres to 1st click with 70 miles remaining so thinking mine has a 80 litre tank. Oversize tanks are optional on some Audis https://www.chroniclelive.co.uk/news/motoring/motoring-news/highway-code-changes-coming-force-26889345 https://www.motoringresearch.com/advice/illegal-run-out-fuel-motorway/

What's a safety bolt? The anti theft bolts are tightened the same as the standard bolts.

I suspect you haven't used this google feature. The warning is merely an audible bong, hardly a distraction. Unless it's a mobile speed camera warning which in effect is telling you to keep your eyes peeled and speed down. You'd find it even more infuriating when the double flash goes off (newer cameras don't flash) and a letter marked private and confidential drops on your doormat a few days later..