varooom

Yes you have 1440 iirc and just need to move around the files on USB to enable it to be seen correct. Root of drive should be metainfo2.txt Then 20-30 folders in the next level off the root Allow 20-30 mins of packing time

I have available should you wish to attempt rollback (if it lets you) S00.1000.01.99 Release="MSTD_EU_SK_P3041" MUVersion="0171" S00.1000.09.99 Release="MSTD_EU_SK_P5180" MUVersion="0465" S00.1000.13.99 Release="MSTD_EU_SK_P6230" MUVersion="0490"

Ah I see the error in your last picture. Move that compressed file out of the USB stick. The take all the files and folders you see listed, and place all into the ROOT of the USB drive, they should not be inside the folder Update Firmware Skoda Superb. So once your have moved these files and the single metainfo2 text file into the root, you need to delete that folder.

What was your orginal version for this car? It's highly unlikely to have killed it, but if you changed versions there could be new coding perhaps. I can look about for an older version, there are also ways with software tools to force a SWDL (Software Download) You are the only person that has reported this bug/issue.

Are any on your list with Y in the entry?

Have you tried the reboot or the factory reset on the unit yet? Can the car see the phone? Can the phone see the car?

You may want to try these values seen at the bottom of this page.

There's a factory reset choice, or sometimes you hold down the power button until it reboots, then release it. Fingers crossed 🤞

Fair play, so maybe when you do longer journeys the car will be charging sufficiently on its own (as it no doubt has been until recently) Also have the charger issue with cable, so it's either pot luck if you get your "spot" or you need to take to a family or friend to charge if not. If this sort of charging is going to be an issue, then perhaps you might need a jump pack for emergency use.

Have you tried with a USB stick? That would be next choice.

It transmits battery temperature and Voltage I believe onto Gateway, and the only "reset" as such is to tell the Gateway you have installed a "new" battery so it can relearn charging. Take a look at this, I think it tells you https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-504-vehicle-batteries/ about the monitor (need to check myself again) EDIT: Try this one about Stop/Start, you will see information about the monitor and where it sends data via LINbus https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-426-start-stop-system-2009/

Yes alternators are not cheap, do you have access to VCDS full time, or was it just plugged in and you see the logs? Ideally a full VCDS scan of the car would be a good thing to post if you have it, though as you well know, no faults codes doesn't stored always mean a thing. EDIT: p.s. I was hoping to take laptop out to the car today and do a log of the Voltages during driving. It has sat for a whole week, so should need a good top up! If I can, I will post up a log later on of live data logging that might be a good comparison to your own (if you have easy access to VCDS)

I suspect you and me will always do this dance, you are right about the turning off of the EGR recirculation, but as mentioned that you had to drill a bigger hole in the blanking plate to stop it going into limp mode. I did blanking plate on an old Mondeo I had some years back, and had to do the same to that also. I suspect the truth of the matter lies somewhere in the middle, as a working EGR has to exist and open/close as requested, and perhaps it measures the air mass and knows something is off. This is why I seem to always mention the EGR as having an effect on things, as they suggest to check these if a car is having trouble The EGR system The throttle flap The pressure differential sensor The air-mass meter The brake and clutch pedal switch function

@J.R. Petronas Syntium 5000 AV SAE 5W-30 50400/50700 He should be ok with that oil AFAIK?

Be patient please in waiting for answers. The oil sensor is easy, as this usually located at the bottom of the engine sump. The ambient temperature sensor I think is located on the front bumper as a guess (sorry someone will need to answer if that's right/wrong)

When the Universe is cold and dead, the last 1.9PD will finally stop running 😆

Yes, I can send MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 MU1440 p.s. Welcome to the forum

Sorry to hear that, but it is an issue. So you may need to repair this wiring, or run 2-3 new wires to "bypass" the damaged area.

Here is a static link to the approved oils, https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/downloadStaticFile/skoda/files/oil/oil_pdf.zip Use this to see if your ordered oil is approved 🤝

As mentioned in your oil sensor thread, you need to really get a good fault code reader on the car to show wiring defects (short to Earth for example) VCDS is a good scanner, but there are alternatives. Cheap scanners are only good to be used as a hammer, as they often cannot read the codes correctly, if at all!

It does not know when it is full, only when it drops down low it sends a message. If you start the engine, and drive a little you should be able to bring up oil temperate on the screen.. if this is not available, then you have either a broken sensor or the wiring to it is broken (hence the message) I would suspect more than likely a wire is broken as it is low down at bottom of engine and can be damaged easily. So inspect wiring in that area, or get a code reader scanner that can investigate the fault code(s) stored in the car.

Sorry is it yes that you need ignition on, or yes that it is now working? Though I suspect from your other post that you have wiring troubles, as your oil level has error also.

The sensor measures low level... and the temperature of the oil. You need to scan the car for codes as the sensor might be fine... but have a wiring loom issue.

The EGR is needed for the DPF regeneration process, so don't delete unless you want to create issues. Speaking of DPF, yes the EA189 recall seems to increase the regens, but if you make sure to use the correct low oil ash content oil, then you should in theory make it to about 200k give or take as that's the rough end of life mileage.

Do you need ignition on for it to check temperature? I never really pay close attention to if it needs it.