varooom

Yup, and I hate the online manual... it does my head in (thankfully my older car has booklet!)

Start by using the https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models and either input VIN, or put in model year etc for your car. Then using the left side menu, locate the following... Online Services Setting personal data protection Scroll down on right side to near bottom Then using the left side menu, locate the following... Online Services Management of online services Connection status of online services

@WillRB Maybe Skoda should reimburse you the cost of dry cleaning your underwear. It might be an idea to invest in a smart charger if you are doing only these 5 mile journeys, you are not really putting back enough juice into the battery (running lights/rear window defrost etc) If your work commute is short, then you probably should charge the battery in full on weekends, every week without fail. If you have a garage then even better (if it fits) as you can leave it safely. Look into getting a CTEK charger or equivalent, just make sure it has AGM charge cycle as one of it's programs.

Yes, I can send you a PM. It should be same firmware as your previous post as both are MIB1

Update sent via private message

Look at the picture in the post above, hold down your Menu/Setup key for about 10 seconds to locate. This is where you need to update firmware.

Oooh I don't think anyone would have taken the hump, just I figured I'd show how the tag works, and now you know for future 🤝

If your battery is original, it could be on it's last legs at 5 year's, though they can last longer for sure. The cold takes a fair bit out of the car, and it can take a while to put back what's been taking out during start-up, it's compounded by headlights being used, rear windows heating, and so on. Worse case scenario, but not too scare you too much is the alternator is not as healthy as it once was, sure it's outputting a charge, but not enough. It could be an idea if you haven't already, to check that all the Earth points in the engine bay are secure and don't look crusty. Some might be low down and could need a ramp to check (cross that bridge when it comes to it)

As you probably know, it can take 15-20 minutes for the CANbus to properly go into low power mode, if you have fooled the car into thinking the car is locked, with the bonnet open, then you should know if you have a parasitic draw. You can do the same with car door open if you fool it also, and check mA across each fuse. Assuming that's fine, then our most like suspect is alternator is being a swine because it's shot, or it's not being commanded to operate when it should be charging. The radio shutting down while driving and various similar messages of too much power being drawn when driving also points to the Alternator not being commanded to work (which is odd!) or the Alternator is buggered. That message shows up when you're taking more from battery than your putting in (once the battery Voltage drops to unsafe values)

I am used to the older ones in previous cars, where you have sensor on both sides. One checks front to see if there's night/daylight and a sensor on the mirror glass side to react to headlights. You could make it react by covering that section on the back.

I think it's a light sensor for the auto-dimming mirror, don't touch! 🤝

Here is the issue you have having in reverse (blowing hot only) Have a read, something might be useful there.

Do these have a special mode you can press and hold say the AC button to make it calibrate the flaps? Or is at as mentioned, just keep turning the dial.

Have you got a picture of your heating system? The basic one, will use a cable to move the heater flap, the A/C I believe will use electric motor to move heater flap.

Thanks @softscoop I wasn't sure that the old one's did have a nasty tea-bag 😆

Check engine bay coolant expansion bottle for the words "Mit Silikat" I do believe. This bag can split and block the heater matrix inside the car, leading to poor heat transfer. p.s. Welcome to the forum

Yes this is the screen to perform update, and verification of Software Train

@Breezy_Pete Seems you did something good @VanhireBoys (you can type the @ symbol and then write in the name to tag a user) And to all else that made contributions. 🤝

I have had a good look though the same document as you have (mine are just newer versions) but couldn't see anything about the removal of the sensor sadly. Maybe someone has done this before and can report, also did you get the extra gaskets? Parts 4 & 8 in your document.

Yes it's now compressing...

Yes I see same in engine manual here too, the parts program is sure it's the part I posted, but is listed in engine manual as G83, which is down at the radiator.

Yes, exists this S00.1000.17.99 release = "MHIG_EU_SK_K1552" MUVersion = "0411"

It might be error in the parts program pointing at that, I am sure that is G83 pictured above, but in parts program G62 points at that part (could be error!) So please ignore if this is sending you in wrong direction. Perhaps time for sleep.

I just put in a search for G62 on either the Audi or the Skoda in your car details, and this is the part number that shows up... So this should be image and part number for the item labelled G62

Audi A3 VIN? Just checking you want me to look at that car!