JR RS

A more effective & shorter comparison..

Yup, I'm so pleased that there is no drone at all. All the local exhaust shops near me weren't interested in fabricating one for me saying the anti-drone J-pipe is just a gimmick and will never work properly.

Had an RPM Performance Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe on Gandalf earlier this week. Overall happy with the end result. The pipe.... Fitted.... Video after fitment... More details and pics here.

So after an initial failed attempt 6 months ago, thinking the mk7 Golf GTi resonator delete pipe will fit on the mk3 Superb (FWD), which it doesn't cause wrong length and bend angles - I ended up getting the version designed for the mk3 Octavia RS. It's the RPM Performance Anti-drone (Helmholtz) Resonator Delete Pipe, which I had fitted on Gandalf earlier this week. There is a nice subtle increase in exhaust note, no drama. My biggest relief is that there is absolutely no drone, at any speeds. No farts or crackles, but I wasn't expecting that. Fitment wasn't 100%. The factory downpipe end was easy, with the slip on clamp. However the rear end had to be welded on as the catback pipe end was the same thickness as the resonator delete pipe - hence couldn't use the slip on clamp. Overall happy with the Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe. Comparison..... The delete pipe... Fitted... Factory resonator removed.. Video of the resonator delete pipe fitted...

U have an MIB2 unit, hence:- 1. U can only update the maps via the sd-card. U need to download the latest maps from the Skoda Update portal, using ur VIN number, to a computer, then extract it to the sd-card. 2. Yes u can upgrade MIB2 to MIB2.5 with the larger 9.2" screen. I recently made a how-to guide and posted in this forum. Do a search. No, u won't get wireless Android Auto or wireless CarPlay. Only MIB3 units can do it natively. Ur solution is to get a wireless dongle, like AAWireless, which plugs into ur existing USB port. 3. MIB2 and MIB2.5 can only handle USB-A ports, they can't do USB-C ports. Only MIB3 units can handle USB-C. U can convert a USB-A to USB-C, but it will b "fake" and won't b a data port anymore. I converted my 12v socket in the rear to a USB-C charging port. ....and before u ask, it too difficult to upgrade to the MIB3. With the rear bulbs - U can replace them with LED bulbs with no issues provided u get the CANBUS error free version. Plenty of choices available - Phillips, Auxito, ilumo.....

Thanks for the explanation The cars build date is on the bottom of the b-pillar door frame.

Not at all - nothing wrong with putting in an AGM battery, provided the battery adaptation is performed. I recently changed my EFB battery to an AGM one, and did the battery adaptation. Left is EFB+ Right is AGM

Skoda don't supply their cars with AGM batteries, only EFB batteries. so whoever put the AGM battery in ur car before did not perform the battery adaptation. They should've changed it to Fleece back then, but they either missed it or didn't bother.

Could b the famous fuel line rattle. The sounds appears to come from the door speaker. In fact it comes from the fuel lines vibrating against the floor pan near the door. The 280 AWD models suffer from this.

@Dooge - sorry, I don't know wat "68 plate" means or refers to as the rest of the world doesn't use that. As for Model Years - they (factory) change over usually after factory holiday shutdown around July or August. Hence they start manufacturing MY19 models from the second half of 2018, after the factory reopens.

straight plug'n'play swap - no i believe u need to upgrade/change the Gateway. MY15 & MY16 Gateway cannot do 10 or more colours ambient lighting. i also believe the RGB controller in for each LED strip needs to be changed to.

i find the brakes in the Superb 220 to b good - good feel and good bite. i recently changed the factory brakes on mine to DBA discs and pads.

Converting from Halogen headlights to SLA Bi-Xenon headlights, let alone normal Bi-xenon headlights, will b a massive job!! I would not recommend it. In addition to the Bi-xenon headlights, u'll need:- - 3x levelling sensors - 2x light controller modules per headlight - 1x ballast per headlight - 1x AFS module - completely different wiring loom - upgraded BCM module - A5 camera - headlight washer - upgraded washer fluid tank .....and a whole bunch of coding and parameter files for various modules.

potentially, especially something like an auxiliary lighting system, hence i why i initially said "no guarantee". when i added the DRL light bar on my Superb, i did the test with a wiring harness to tap into the DRL signal, and low beam signal, and was able to do it successfully without any errors thrown. most likely because the DRL light bar consumed very little power. however, because i wanted my DRL light bar to act (dim and brighten) like factory DRLs, i did the complicated BCM method. u can read about it here. in theory, u could use Pin 11 from the headlight connector to trigger a relay, which will turn on an auxiliary light that is powered separately, and not through the same pin, thus not increasing the load.

That's the method I did to connect my additional DRL light strip, but I was sharing the easier "least complicated" method which doesn't involve tapping into the BCM and running a wire through the firewall to get into the engine bay, and doesn't involve coding of a Leuchte channel.

@MrPekka - I can't guarantee it will work, but u can try splicing into Pin #11 of the headlight connector plug. That one is for the high beam - xenon shutter signal.

if u have found a good replacement pair - its doable. its just the hassle of removing the bumper to remove the headlights, and then finding a workshop that will recode/reparameterize the Headlight module so it pairs with the replaced headlights. the bi-xenon headlights on the mk3 Superb r good, if aimed correctly. when i first got mine many many years ago, i replaced the factory xenon bulbs with Phillips xTremeVision Gen2 bulbs. this was a nice improvement over stock. I then swapped out my normal Bi-xenon headlights for SLA Bi-Xenon headlights. last year i replaced the xTremeVision D3S bulbs with LED D3S bulbs - another nice improvement over stock. this is the video of my headlights when it had the xTremeVision bulbs.

just to clarify, talking Columbus range here..... MIB2 (8" screen) will ONLY work with MIB2 units. MIB2.5 (9.2" screen) will ONLY work with MIB2.5 units. MIB2 units (Harman) can b converted to MIB2.5, so you can retrofit a 9.2" screen and/or Virtual Cluster. Once converted, the 8" screen will NOT work with the MIB2.5 unit. With Amundsen or Bolero range, i'm not sure of their inter-compatibilities.

@Danoid, @Wacked - replacing the headlights, even if it's like for like will require the slave modules (2x per headlight) to be recoded or reparameterized to the AFS Master module, in ur case, being MY15 - Module #55 Headlight. U need specialist tools like ODIS or VCP to perform that. R ur headlights pointing downwards? Do they still do the headlight dance on startup? Any errors reported when u do a scan?

@MarkyG82 - good point. The 2020 PHEV is an MIB3 unit. @joeslaughter - don't follow my instructions. I don't know the different MIB3 screens & units - so I can't comment/advise.

Ah yes. U can read the guide I created then. I upgraded the 8" MIB2 screen to a 9.2" MIB2.5 screen, and did a firmware update of the head unit to MIB2.5. Details here -

congratulation on ur upgrade 🙂 responses in blue above....

that is not normal. with Auto Hold active or not, the brake pedal should release the same way each time, with no pops bangs or noises.

After almost 4.5 yrs, Gandalf's battery was showing signs of weakness when cracking the engine. So I replaced the Exide EFB+ battery with a Century ISS Active AGM battery. Old: 12v 70ah 700CCA EFB+ New: 12v 70ah 720CCA AGM Did the Battery Adaptation too, changing it to Fleece.

The smaller 8" MIB2 Columbus screen (with buttons) will definitely NOT work on the MIB2.5 head units, or in ur case - MIB3 either.