JR RS

from what i've read/seen, there is:- - Standard suspension - DCC suspension (which sits 10mm lower) - Sportline suspension (which sits 15mm lower than Standard) - Sportline DCC suspension (unsure how much lower this sits compared to Standard)

which is what i did - i retrofitted the Direct TPMS, so i can see actual pressure values in the centre cluster and infotainment.

i spray-painted, using Plasti-dip, the chrome trim on my lower grille. u could buy these bits from superskoda, in black already, if u wanted to, instead of painting it urself. i removed the actual chrome trim from the grille, so i could spray it properly. the upper grille would b more involved i'd imagine, and i myself haven't separated it.

+1, I got similar ones from AliExpress, but with silver edging. The quality is really good, and the paddle shift/click is really solid, even at the tips!

+1 never to up the nuts in that sequence - 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 !!! likewise when un-doing the nuts. i always use the star-shape pattern, as u've pointed out.

Front.... Rear. Remove plastic cover first.....

here u go @bubib5. keep in mind 09 Electrics changed (coding) between MY16 (urs) and MY17 (mine). also keep in mind @defiant has a facelift MY20, which has newer modules and likely different coding and adaptations. good luck. adpmap-05-3Q0-959-435-E.CSV adpmap-09-5Q0-937-084-CG.CSV adpmap-6D-5Q0-959-107-L.CSV

Do u know which particular Adaptation? I can check mine as I have a hatch (MY17) which came from factory with kick to open & close. I don't have double buttons on the boot hatch. This is my 6D module scan...... Address 6D: Trunk Elect. (J605) Labels:| 5Q0-959-107.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 107 L HW: 5Q0 959 107 J Component: HDSG-Modul H13 0261 Revision: -------- Serial number: 31249117700000 Coding: 1008 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00141 ASAM Dataset: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736 001014 ROD: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736_AU73.rod VCID: 41DF477CE10493733CC-8014 No fault code found.

This is mine (with 19s) with 15mm at the rear only, before being lowered.....

Some splitter (Rieger) action on Gandalf....

Inside, on top of the diffuser. The pic below shows the placement, but of course it's mounted inside.

U want the least amount of swearing, easy access and least amount of risk (breaking something else in the process) - bumper off job. U want lots of swearing, feeling ur way around (cause u can't see inside), scratching ur head (plus others bits of choice.....), and don't mind having a few spare bolts or broken tabs - keep the bumper on!! So.....u going take the Red or Blue pill? Choose wisely

the Kodiaq comes with the white LED version. part number is 3T0947417F9B9. problem is they not cheap. haven't found any secondhand ones here, or if i do, shipping is killer to Oz. i want to get them, but i'm not paying those prices just for the sake of having a torch with white boot light.

These r the bits (marked in red) securing the grille to the bumper......

They r always on in mine (MY17), regardless of door or headlight status. It's just during the daytime they r hard to see, even at max brightness.

Mine did that when the battery was low on charge, i.e. about to die. Car/battery was about 3 yrs old at the time.

Lol.....I never park right up like that, front or rear. It's angled driveways I'm worried about.

Getting the roof wrapped makes a nice difference. Highly recommended.

Compared to the factory indicators, they r weak at the tips. Can't see them from the inside. But importantly, it can b seen from the outside.

Been thinking about doing this for way way too long - finally gave Gandalf a lip extension!! 😊 It's a Rieger splitter. Was looking and looking for a splitter that didn't stick out like the Maxton and SuperSkoda versions. Fits perfectly. Quality is great. Going to get it finished in Gloss Black soon, so it matches the gloss black of the fog light frames....

It (indirect TPMS) uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel rotational speeds. If a tyre is running flat, or of a different size it will b picked up. With direct TPMS, it has a parameter file in the tyre pressure module with different tyre size and associated pressures stored.

others have had similar issues, but with persistence, have ended up being successful. maybe, instead of going to Adaptations, u can enter the security code and go straight into Basic Settings and try running the calibration "Adapting with deflected wheels". reason for going to Adaptations is to capture the "before" values, so u can compare. if u've already got that, no need to go into again. go straight to Basic Settings.

Try running ur 220 with a Stage 1 ECU tune!!! Putting a lower dogbone insert helped eliminate the axle-tramp, but now the tyres just chirp n spins on the spot

My seat memory function had failed about 2 yrs back. Mine is MY17. It's common, known to happen when they're pushed to their extremes. As others have mentioned above - u either do a software update to the seat controller module. Or u replace it, which is wat my dealer did to mine, under warranty. Also, as @SashaGracementioned - that a mighty new controller version (F) number for an MY16, or it's the wrong controller. maybe urs was faulty before U got it and they replaced it, but with the wrong version for the Superb. Haven't had any issues since then. Previously my seat controller was:- SW: 5Q0 959 760 B HW: 5Q0 959 760 B Now it is:- SW: 5Q0 959 760 C HW: 5Q0 959 760 C

Just an update after having the recalibration done a week ago now. The car rides so much better now. If only I had known about this much much earlier. The car is less crashy. Previously with the lowered springs, the DCC shocks were not ideally matched, and hence it would crash/bottom-out on speed humps or dips, especially in Normal or Comfort modes. After recalibrating, the DCC shocks r better behaved with the shorter springs. I don't have to, anymore, put the car in Sport setting for Suspension. Really happy with it.