sepulchrave

The wet liners are the ductile iron cylinders the pistons run inside, all four can be removed separately from the water jacket, they protrude slightly above the block face to ensure a good seal with the head but over time the fire rings on the gasket seem to degrade and they eventually fail allowing combustion pressure to leak into the water jacket and water to be sucked into the cylinder.

The clue here is that the revs are low, this means the common rail fuel pump is not spinning fast enough to keep the rail pressure up, the turbo is boosting and the ECU is telling the injectors to dump the fuel in but the rail pressure is dropping below ECU minimum spec. Possibly a software update from Skoda will stop it.

Every wet liner engine I've ever worked on has blown a head gasket at some point, French, Italian, English, doesn't seem to make any difference.

Doesn't really matter if it's not being disturbed but suboptimal nonetheless.

Doesn't matter since they're not stretch bolts as long as you loosen them evenly in the right sequence you can tighten them up again.

The new oil used has less viscosity so the top end will be noisier when cold, if you want it quieter use thicker oil. The noise doesn't mean anything, the oil is still protecting the moving parts just fine.

Why oh why does everyone want their old car lit up like a darned Christmas tree, ruining other drivers night vision and looking like a plod magnet. Townies.

Looks lovely, you can put it all back together now.

Narrow tyres are best in rain, snow and ice so they'll be just fine.

Of course you can use the tyres as long as you have a set of14" wheels to put them on.

Yes, there are some VERY silly boys about, driving moderately quick cars extremely badly.

Nice.

Well, it's a diesel so it's not as critical since you can't really blow a diesel up with a bad map, it's not like a petrol where underfuelling will melt the engine, if a diesel is lean it just doesn't make as much powah as it should. Hardly a disaster.

I did say right off the bat that I thought it would cost a few hundred quid to replace the EGR valve and clean the existing DPF and I stand by that statement, obviously you should get some quotes nonetheless. My ill-chosen example of the same work done recently with good results on a different engine was intended to illustrate the benefits rather than send your thread off the rails.

I'm sorry too, but they have previous form going back years on here. I wasn't suggesting that the precise method of work on your particular installation was the same at all, only that the results of that work were worthy of your consideration since all modern engines work pretty much the same way, because; from an engineering perspective there's really only one way to skin a cat.

No, I'm sorry, you're all quite right. The OP should just go and buy a new car, half a days labour to change that valve makes it a write-off, please ignore me, I'm so glad that more of you just piled in to make me see the error of my ways in giving duff advice. I should have looked at the detailed schematics of that particular engine and decided that the work was impossible instead of drawing on my own recent experiences of just getting on with it, I must just be lucky that every job I do is so easy. I'm too gung-ho, I don't use manuals at all, just a cowboy really. Thank you all for straightening me out. Peace out.

No you weren't. Allow me to translate: Liar, pix or GTFO. Does your carer know you're being rude to strangers on the Internet?

The BOV only has one simple job to do which is to vent excess pressure from the inlet plenum, if yours is adjustable you could try tightening it slightly otherwise there isn't much else you can do other than revert to the standard setup which recirculates that same excess pressure back to the airbox quietly.

Well, the silly BOV is designed to be noisey so it's entirely likely that you're hearing things you just couldn't hear before.

Are you kidding me? BMR, go find your own part armchair boy.

You're sorted then, personally I'd go with the VAG/terraclean specialist for this work and use your regular garage for other run-of-the-mill work.

There's nothing wrong with generic mapping for simple mods, a diesel engine is not a snowflake, it's the driver that is and that's how salesmen part drivers from their money so easily. Not necessary for a simple turbo swap, the PD engine is over twenty years old and all the maps available are fully evolved and mature.

Take it off and clean it every five years or so, it takes about 100k to get clogged enough to fail completely, less if the car is used for a lot of short trips and doesn't get very hot. I'm not saying don't change cars, I'm just saying you don't HAVE to change, a car is not a consumable item that you have to throw away every few years. If you have trust issues with mechanics (not unreasonable), just get the EGR valve changed and ask to see the old part after the job's been done, do this up front and you won't offend anyone, a terraclean place will do all the work for you including the DPF deep clean.

The fanboy told you the partial truth, it takes about half an hour of mixed driving for the wideband lambda readings to alter the dynamic map if the ECU has been reset. However changing the air filter isn't going to do anything at all unless the old one was very dirty and a noisey BOV is a purely cosmetic change, so...

The EGR valves strip gear teeth because they get clogged, if they're kept clean they don't fail. I've just had to replace one on a Passat 2.0 TDI and it was almost completely blocked, the valve was stuck and the teeth were stripped, it was just over £100 for a new one, I also fitted an EGR flow reduction gasket with a smaller hole at the same time, the job was quick and easy, access was tricky to a couple of the bolts but added no more than ten minutes to the job. As a consequence of the EGR failure the DPF had become clogged and could not regenerate, the owner had the DPF professionally cleaned and now the car behaves like new. So I do actually know what I'm talking about.