sepulchrave

You didn't say the cars lights go off, this is starting to sound like an earth fault now.

This is a torrent of absolute drivel, engineering specs are incredibly specific and not subject to interpretation, they're like the ingredients in a formula which can be accurately tested once made. The perfect case in point is the VW 505.01 oil spec for PD engines, if the oil meets that spec then the PD engine carries on working properly, if not, it wears out the cam and followers in less than 100 miles. So it doesn't matter who makes the oil or how much it costs as long as it meets that spec.

It's not the battery, it's the wiring to the alternator.

This sounds like a charging problem, you need to check the alternator field and sense wires where they pass through a connector next to the gearbox, from your description one or both of these is almost completely fractured but not quite.

There is a VW minimum standard specification for oil and as long as what you buy meets that standard then it doesn't matter how much it costs does it? You're mistakenly conflating cost with quality instead of concentrating on value, it's an easy mistake that non-technical people make which is widely exploited by advertisers when marketing branded products. Buy what you want but don't kid yourself that treating your beloved car to fine wines and Belgian chocolates will make a blind bit of difference, it won't and the car certainly doesn't care.

Buy what you like, it's your money, it really doesn't matter, you don't need an "upgrade", just brand new fresh fluid.

The most desirable characteristic of replacement brake flud is that it's fresh and not old and stale, 2L is far more than you need, 1L is ample.

I think it's more to do with popularity, some sizes fly off the shelves while others sit there gathering dust, popular sizes tend to be cheaper and those sizes tend to be OE fitment sizes, tinkering about changing one dimension slightly can make a tyre much rarer and therefore more expensive.

To be honest it's tough getting low profile tyres in lower speed ratings anyway, why would a manufacturer bother making V rated tyres when they can make W rated tyres for almost the same price.

You don't even need backplates for the MOT, so they won't fail as long as they're not flapping about. As for bolts, M6 x 13 if memory serves, just take one out and have a look.

That sounds like Internet mythology to me, the VRS is lighter than a Golf with the same engine, or any other VAG group car with the PD130 for that matter, the lack of weight is what makes the VRS the quickest. V rating is good up to 149 mph, speed rating is mostly down to the strength of the radial belt and its ability to resist stretching or breaking as rotational velocity increases.

Not really what I meant but nevermind.

The Actuator is electronic and the ECU needs to know where the maximum and minimum limits are, you would hope that a professional garage would know how to do this but in my experience mechanics view electrical stuff as witchcraft.

At that price, who cares!

Ordinary cars are too noisy to benefit from expensive hifi components unless you want to listen while parked up.

Instead of guessing, this thread needs moving to the Mark 3 section...

It's pretty much the ideal time to upgrade to new 312mm discs on the front, you just need to buy the calipers and brackets, change all the brake fluid at the same time and replace the rear discs and pads but don't bother upgrading them.

Has the new actuator been adapted in software?

You need to log boost while doing a full pull, requested and actual, you're not getting enough AIR to go with all that fuel you're wasting which rules out the injectors somewhat.

Yes.

You really need an auto electrician, meantime step away from the tools before you hurt yourself or worse, somebody else!

How odd, you're quite right it doesn't appear to be worn and if the crank journal is smooth then it must be a different material, I've never come across it before but if the crank's not damaged then you've got away with it and that snapped bolt must've been damaged during manufacture or assembly.

Berated is the wrong word and you were GUESSING, the OP has rightly finished inspecting all the mains, I'm now suggesting he inspect the big ends as well. I'd still only replace the shell that's damaged, none of the others show any signs of wear and if the big ends are all good then it's just the one to be done.

Oil starvation is how that happened, previous owner let the level drop too low and the bearings got starved during braking or cornering when the oil sloshed away from the pickup pipe, big ends have probably had it as well.

Yes, that's the copper backing, it's completely worn out.