sepulchrave

...don't forget to set the injector lash and lock the cam before fitting the head to the engine. Replacing all the stretch bolts means replacing ALL the bolts for the cam caps, injectors and rocker shaft, the rockers themselves should be fine though. Use assembly lube on everything that touches moving parts under pressure, lots of fresh oil everywhere else.

You can try fine grinding, you'll find out very quickly if it's gonna work or not, just replace the valve stem and injector seals together with all the stretch bolts.

Actually you can reuse everything from your old head that isn't damaged, the main problem you have is that the valve seats will need cutting to suit whichever valves you're using. I assume you're replacing the casting due to cracking or warping. Please advise.

Yah, I hear you, but this is for the guy who started this thread, I already read yours.

This is referring to the actuator which controls boost, 1.6 tdi has an electronic actuator and these can get weak as they get older, this coupled with the VNT mechanism stiffening as it ages can lead to boost control problems.

More likely to be the actuator than the turbo, still if a full diagnostic was done then it should be fixed, I was simply remarking that the 1.6 tdi has a bad reputation for injector failure. Hey, at least it's not your money that's being wasted, amirite?

1.6 TDI problems are usually faulty injectors, the rest of the engine is largely reliable. You probably should have come here for a chat before chucking a bag of sand down the drain!

https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/408440290

Why don't you just put the EGR back temporarily? All this mucking about swapping everything around, what have you ACTUALLY done? Changed the cam and lifters, changed the turbo, deleted the EGR system? Is that it? Let me help you with your mechanic, he'll always tell you to do something stupid that pays well. Guess why?

Do what you want. I'm out.

The very first symptoms of a bad cam are a rough idle, loss of power follows but by that time the idle is so rough the car starts stalling. So It's Not The Cam Ok.

BLT sets the CEL when the EGR is missing or not working, ASZ does not. I don't know for certain if the ECU limits power with a lit CEL but given your symptoms I think it's likely, what you describe is exactly like limp home mode, especially since the car starts and idles well. You say it's boosting but you might be looking at requested rather than actual and it won't boost at all while stationary so you need to be driving it before you log a pull.

Looks a 1.4 twincharger engine to me... Try changing the ECT sensor if it seems temperature sensitive.

Camchain.

It's like I'm moving my mouth but no sounds are coming out. You're now at the stage where you're basically ignoring everything I say despite the fact I've been on here for 12 years and used to be in the engine reconditioning trade and have seen more wrecked PD heads than you've had hot dinners. Unless your new cam or followers are damaged they're not the problem. You're at the stage where you're only listening to your internal dialogue, good luck.

I note that they're cheaper cast iron parts and not steel, please check the physical condition of the cam and followers you have fitted, any tiny difference between the parts will not produce the symptoms you are experiencing.

They are all the same. Do you have any physical evidence that the cam is bad? I assume you changed the oil and filter and replaced all the stretch bolts as well. Take off the rocker cover and carefully inspect the cam and followers for any signs of damage.

On a BLT the ECU knows when the EGR has been messed with, on an ASZ you can just plug the vacuum pipe and the ECU is none the wiser.

If it's a BLT then yes, if ASZ then no.

FASCINATING stuff indeed! OP, about your question, YES is the answer OK.

I would start by reflowing all the solder connections on the instrument cluster multiway socket, unless the company you sent it to have already done it, have you tested it?

Try using your hands bookworm!

So you're saying this guff is for tragic completists?

Why do you need a custom map if the generic map off a scrap ECU is good enough? What you're saying doesn't make any sense at all. Nobody needs a custom map unless they have some kind of magical unicorn spec, as for your remark about potential, I'll take that with a pinch of salt. There's nothing new in VRS tuning and hasn't been for donkeys years. If you've fitted a bigger turbo since your car was mapped then you might need a new map to go a bit faster any other mods won't do anything so your existing map will be fine.

Why don't you just map yours, it's not expensive and much less faff, plus you're not buying a potentially dodgy map and you can choose a torque limited map to preserve your clutch and flywheel.