sepulchrave

Excellent news, a much cheaper and easier job than fitting a new cam and followers.

SDI has a mechanical fuel pump.

Doh! That would also explain the 208 ohms from the tank level sender...

There's a staggering amount of nonsense talked about relative viscosity, 5W30 and 5W40 are both fine to use, 5W30 will give fractionally better fuel economy and therefore a tiny reduction in emissions, but as you correctly observe as long as the additive pack is suitable for PD engines and it meets the minimum spec. VAG 505.01 then it's ideal, the idea that thicker oil somehow magically floats the shells better is a complete myth on modern engines built to such tight tolerances. It's legacy wisdom from the bad old days when engines were poorly made and you can safely ignore it. If you're changing the oil that often then I recommend you buy the cheapest oil that meets the spec.

Yes, that's right.

Err, you need to measure the voltage between the plug and a ground on the body somewhere, not the pump itself, if you simply remove the pump you can test it off the car by connecting it directly to the battery and seeing if it runs, I suspect the pump is duff but it's easy to test.

You don't need the new pipe, just clean yours up and secure it with some self tapping screws.

You might be able to use some generic aftermarket GRP arch flares like a rally car and trim them to fit.

It'll be the wiring to the sensor.

Probably not.

Not a chance.

You are incredibly lucky, well done! I've just finished rebuilding an Alfa 16V TS head which stripped the cambelt teeth while on tickover, it still managed to bend all the exhaust valves, two were so bad I couldn't dismantle them so I rebuilt everything into another head, the valve stem seals were all super crispy and it had been using tons of oil as a result.

I wouldn't worry about it at all, that's only surface rust.

There's no reason not to reuse them. they won't be damaged.

Yes, you just end with a bad handling car that makes you p!ss blood because it's so crashy on country roads.

If you want fun don't go -40mm, slamming it all for show, not go, the VRS is already lowered compared to the standard Fabia.

That's the ONLY way of doing it, especially if you're slamming it, 205/40 shouldn't rub, 215/40 will rub at -40mm.

No.

Fairy nuff, but they're still perfectly miscible fluids so mixing will happen quickly, just jump in the car and drive, honestly so much armchair overthinking going on in here!

It won't even take that long, since both liquids are completely miscible, mixing will happen immediately during the fuelling process.

Front anti roll bar is basically essential and the car would handle very badly without one.

Tyre size really isn't rocket science, to add one to the rim size, take five off the profile. Voila.

At that ratio I too would roll the dice, the petrol will act like a cleaning agent.

It's a pig if you don't have a four poster, this is a garage we're talking about, not some mental DIY div trying to do it on the driveway! It's half a days work if you haven't done one before.

I assume you mean a 2.0 TDI 4x4 Yeti since the 1.9 was not fitted to that model. That's a CRAZY price for EGR replacement, try getting some other quotes, even a main dealer will be cheaper than that. A Pierburg EGR valve brand new is only £128 on GSF and I wouldn't expect the labour to be even half what you've just been quoted.