sepulchrave

The lower crank from the 1.4 has five mains plus four big ends, the upper crank from the 1.0 has three mains plus four big ends. It means we don't need to know anything else because the block castings are completely different.

It doesn't matter, you can't put a five main bearing crank into a three main bearing block. It won't work, end of story. Think again.

That won't work.

Yes, of course it will fit.

Nope, not a jot, it already has a thermostatic intake because it needs warm air in the winter.

I'm so calm I'm horizontal because my rocker cover doesn't leak, I'm just unclear what your question is?

Brilliant, have a biscuit.

Pay the money then.

There were many millions of those engines made, most are in scrapyards now, try secondhand on ebay.

If XDS is just another stupid name for ESP which another stupid name for selectively applying the brakes at each corner via the ABS module then turn it off, it's crap and will ruin the driving experience. It's certainly nothing like an ATB diff.

During hard acceleration it could even be overboost, if it's exhaust related taking it for a long fast motorway run should clean it up.

All good but nothing to do with the diff, just the brakes, I don't think you have an electronic diff on a FWD VRS, the Yeti has an electronically controlled Haldex so I'm not surprised that it can be enabled.

I'm suggesting that we avoid guessing games, plug in a code reader and see what's what.

Limp mode will not be related, there will be a code stored if you can read them.

The smoke is probably coming from underneath that area and rising around it, I suspect that oil has been spilt during a clumsy top up and is burning off. I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets worse.

You need to check any pipework nearby for splits or leaks, have you topped up the oil recently and spilled any?

Replace the fuel tank sender if it bothers you.

No, because you were able to restart it while still rolling so that rules out the lift pump!

I'm not, I've been on here 12 years and I can guarantee you that in that time I can't think if a single VRS owner who converted to SMF without regretting it. I don't care if you do or you don't, it's your money.

Lift pump fills the filter bowl, for the engine to stall the filter bowl would need to be empty and it would take a little while to refill and bleed the air from the injectors.

So you're not asking us, you're telling us? Crack on then.

It's £1500 cheaper to exercise the proper degree of control over your right hoof!

I think you'll regret it, SMF is noisy and very hard on a fragile gearbox. Spend another few hundred on doing it right with the standard kit.

If you're serious enough about your driving to do track days then a LSD is always worth it, no single mod will knock as many seconds off your lap time.

He'll tell you it needs a new cam position sensor, you need to get him to check the sensor wiring back to the ECU, if that's OK then I'm afraid I'm sticking to my instinct that it's slipped it's timing.