sepulchrave

Just try changing the bulbs before throwing yourself at the mercy of your local garage!

Yes it should fit but you'll need to remove the centre cap.

Got the electrics wet? Also your battery is tired, check battery voltage.

I guess you mean the top mounts, the rears don't do anything so unless yours have rotted out you can chuck them away. Have you checked that one of your front springs hasn't broken, it's quite hard to see unless you look carefully.

What does this mean please? It's a DIESEL it doesn't have an ignition system, it's like a load of old crap is falling out of somebodies mouth and you're just writing it down for us. How can the turbo be boosting properly in VCDS if the car is stuck in limp mode? The stuff you're telling us just doesn't make any sense at all.

No-one bothers fitting longer hoses, it's not necessary, it's a simple conversion and hard to see how you'd mess it up again, particularly since you know what to look out for now!

How was your previous brake failure caused by hose length issues?

C'mon fella, I'm just pulling your leg, I did give you decent advice at the top. Relax.

Hopefully the OP's hearing is better than his eyesight!

Exactly so, run in the tappets on the cam then give it death until the rings seal, as you say, you clearly see when that happens because peak torque levels off.

You obviously mean Retardos, however the major problem most manufacturers have is the end user, many end users drive their cars like such pussies that they end up with bore glazed oil burners which cannot be economically repaired. Let me give you a real world example, my Fabia has a 2.0 AZL engine which has covered 133k miles and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I just bought an identical 2.0 AZJ engine from a 2003 VW Beetle which had covered just over 100k miles and upon stripping it the plugs, valves, ports, pistons and head were thickly coated in wet black fudge where it had been using oil at a ridiculous rate, the bores were polished to a mirror shine, you could see the hone marks like they were buried under ice. End users ruin good engines because they don't drive them properly, this is especially true of more powerful engines which get tickled about even worse. Never buy low mileage cars, they'll be utterly knackered already.

There are a few grommets in the bulkhead where you can easily get into the cabin, don't look at the engine bay if it confuses you, look at the bulkhead, this is the back wall of the engine bay, anywhere that you can see wires or pipes going into the bulkhead you'll find a grommet. Try that.

He doesn't currently have a code at all so how can this make it worse? Your caution is excessive and unnecessary.

No, it's a purely mechanical part, no programming needed. It's actually an incredibly easy job if you have the facilities, I've done them on the ground when I was younger and slimmer but it's not fun and takes more than twice as long.

It's a very difficult DIY job since the subframe needs lowering and that means a four poster, easy for a professional garage.

It's a brushless AC motor so the coils are stationary, I'm convinced it's the alternator voltage breaking down under load.

It seems like your alternator might be playing up, can you rig up a voltmeter to the the cigar lighter socket and tape it somewhere you can see it when the problem happens.

What does the battery read before and after starting?

Battery and charging system is not coping with the electrical load. Start measuring voltages.

Excuse my paranoia, I've had bad experiences with some really humourless mods over the last dozen years or so.

It's the next unread button, duh!

Scrapyard tuning usually ends in tears. Spend some money or give up on the modified motah mayhem!

C'mon! it's humour, the picture looks like the trailer is pushing the car! This isn't sophisticated humour, it's straightforward, why don't you get it?

Christ, there's 206 PAGES of this crap! Don't let yourself get pushed around kiddo...

Good idea.