sepulchrave

It may be HGF, even an injector seal leaking can sound like that. It didn't sound metallic to me so I doubt the engine's dead.

I have two engines in my lounge/diner, I think I'm properly house trained thankyouverymuch!

Why would you bother when you have X and Y accelerometers in the airbag controller so you can compensate for side to side as well. However I doubt the function even exists since the gauge is heavily damped because because it's digital, not analogue and no doubt uses an average value anyway.

There FYP. No accelerometers in the ABS controller.

I am indeed using a mobile device and that information is obviously not available otherwise I wouldn't ask, I'm known for being rude, not stupid!

Ok, so it's a VRS, why didn't you say so in the first place! In that case turbo failures are common and you'll need to shop around for a good deal, you could maybe find a decent GT1749VB secondhand to replace it.

You can indeed grease everything before fitting, it makes fitting easier.

TLDR; It's new and you're getting used to it now. Nothing to see here people, no fault to fix.

I hate ABS, I can stop a car faster without it, it's called cadence braking and I learnt how to do it when I was a teenager back in the 80's when we still had bad winters.

It's possible to fit the driven plate the wrong way round, it's also possible to fit the new DMF slightly out of position by not torquing the crank bolts correctly. The job might have been done badly by an inexperienced mechanic who was rushed.

I feel your pain...

A high clutch pedal is to be expected on a 111k diesel, as long as it's not slipping in top gear then it's OK, just treat it gently, DON'T short shift into top early, just drive it normally since long pulls at peak torque in top gear is what wears out clutches quickest. A noisy tappet is nothing to worry about, by all means change the oil but make you use the right stuff, look for VW 507.00 on the can, it MUST be approved for PD use.

BBY only came with an automatic gearbox on the Fabia.

Reset by putting the key in the drivers door lock and twisting anti clockwise and holding it there until the windows both open fully, then release, twist clockwise and hold until both windows shut fully, this will reset one touch and also restore the correct sense.

The engine cores will be the same, block and head, ancillaries may be different and some sensors too. For an easy life just swap all the sensors and ancillaries from the dead BKY to a BBY core.

I had this happen to mine, I disconnected the battery and reset the windows using the key and all was well and has been ever since.

Yes, there is an axiom in old-school diesel tuning, it says "no smoke, no poke", the reason for this is that pre unit injection (PD) and common rail injection atomisation was very poor due to low injection pressures so more fuel than needed had to be injected. This is no longer the case, however in common with other tuning mythology the axiom persists in the realms of mouthbreather owners who don't believe they're getting maximum powah unless the car smokes like a chimney. There is no fix for stupidity.

Is this a trick question? To break the paint seal just tighten it a fraction before undoing it.

Given the expense and/or aggro of the labour involved and the age and mileage of these cars now I wouldn't take the risk of a secondhand unit either, I'd replace the clutch while you're at it as well.

Sachs will have technical drawings showing critical dimensions, send them an email at tech support asking for the drawings, tell them it's for a motorsport project and that you'll be buying new Sachs parts. They should be able to help.

A blown injector seal will sound like a tractor, as others have said there's no way the crank is broken, I've seen broken cranks on racing engines which missed a gear and over-revved, the entire engine was destroyed, block, head, the whole lot almost nothing salvageable. Take it back to the dealer you bought it from.

I would take the car back to where you bought it new and ask them what is really wrong, you might be able to get some help with the cost if a new engine is needed.

If it fits then it will work, you need to check and compare all the dimensions first though.

Try resetting the linkage first and topping up the oil otherwise the gearbox will have to come out for reconditioning.

To be fair if it's a Mark 1 1.9 TDI then it's a PD100 and probably an ATD, whilst turbo failure is less common on the PD100 it's not unheard of and a reconditioned unit would be the way forward to minimise costs.