sepulchrave

Unless they're disconnected 😄

Yeah, Previa not included!

Then it's the MAP or the cam position sensor unless it's the post cat lambda probe. There really aren't that many things it can be, but lots it can't be apparently...

Purge valve?

Since it's right next to the brake fluid reservoir is it for the level sensor?

There, FYP.

My advice has nothing to do with anything you said, I didn't read it, it is based entirely on twelve years experience on these fora, I have never seen a single failed MAP sensor, they are incredibly robust and simply do not fail.

Octavia is a Golf where the Fabia is a Polo, same VW running gear, avoid DSG, avoid turbo petrol, get an older Octavia with the PD100 or 2.0 petrol engine and you shouldn't have any trouble. There's a reason why taxi drivers love them.

I can almost guarantee there won't be anything wrong with the MAP sensor.

They are, so buy another one, but avoid that engine and go for something reliable instead.

I'm afraid that car is a lemon, best cut your losses on it rather than doubling down.

Misfires will be plugs or a coil pack and there's no MAF to worry about, check for vacuum leaks in the brake servo line as well.

Just buy whatever is best value, it doesn't really matter on an engine that weedy.

The rack seals are shot, you need a new one, take the car back if you bought it from a dealer, tell them you want a refund if they don't sort it. Alternatively if you bought it privately you have less protection but you paid less and can afford to get the rack changed professionally. Either way diving into the engine bay yourself isn't going to get you anywhere, the rack is under the car.

Not really, just stick to the service schedules. Fuel tank is plastic so I've no idea where you got the idea that it needs cleaning, old steel tanks get rusty on the inside, perhaps that's where that comes from.

Colour is irrelevant, the dye is added to allow the use of a refractometer and to make leaks easier to spot. The green is fluorescent so you can use a UV lamp to find a leak, some of the others are not, most are ethylene or propylene glycol and they can be safely mixed, OAT reacts with glycol and can gel if enough of both is present but won't if you've already drained the system and are simply refilling it. There is SO MUCH nonsense talked about coolants, the most important thing in a tropical climate is corrosion inhibition, this is usually done with silicate additives so brand, colour, concentration or composition are unimportant.

More likely a vacuum leak, have you checked all the hoses, if so just clear it and see if it comes back.

I would expect a diesel head gasket to be MLS because of the very high compression ratio.

In a word, no.

Wow, why is there silicon sealant in your head gasket joint?

This is the third different coolant in a MONTH? Do you not have anything better to do with your time? You don't even live in a cold climate for crying out loud.

I was being sarcastic, it's snake oil thinking in reverse, what made you decide to change the coolant please?

It's worse these days, stretch bolts are rock hard and can't really be drilled out, spark erosion is often the only option but you can sometimes weld a nut or bolt onto the snapped thread. Best avoided all round, better to replace the old bolts one at a time with new ones. It is possible that the new coolant is really a penetrant in disguise but it's far more likely that the head was not skimmed before refitting. If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing twice, amirite 😉

Ken is right, angle torque is a much more accurate and reliable way to achieve the correct clamping force in a robust fastener, doesn't work on small stuff though.

It is the wrong advice, because they're stretch bolts they snap very easily, one "ping" and it's all gotta come apart and getting the snapped bolt out of the block may prove impossible.