sepulchrave

The airbag module is separate from the instruments but is connected, the codes taken together suggest a connection fault where the wiring meets the instruments, probably a dry solder joint. If this all sounds like Greek to you then I suggest you take it to an auto electrician rather than a mechanic.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01317 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532

If you've got the tools and the talent then go right ahead, but if you don't have a high lift jack, engine support beam, axle stands etc. then you're going to find it nearly impossible without buying these things and by the time you've shelled out for all that and the new gearbox you might as well have just bought another Fabia that needs work and used yours as a parts donor.

I wouldn't advise trying to do a gearbox swap on the drive, you really need a proper car lift and an engine support beam, perhaps you can rent a garage with a lift for the day but it's probably going to be quicker and cheaper just to pay a garage to do it.

WTF? It's NOT a petrol turbo so that's what. Fitting a big intercooler on a turbodiesel isn't really necessary, think of it as a heatsink, diesels like their intake air to be hot, cold air intake guff is for petrol engines because they use a wideband lambda to adjust the fuelling and ignition to suit content, diesels don't do that, they just go by the map and adjust algorithmically using the TMAP sensor. Troll indeed.

You need new bolts for the injectors and pillars, you don't need new collets, valve brand doesn't matter, just order them from FPS. I don't know what you mean about how do you get the glow plugs and injectors out, you just undo and remove them before you remove the head from the block so you don't have to hold the head still.

I understand your POV completely but the minimum unit for billing is one hour, so you're paying for an hour even it only takes five minutes. All professional services work this way, I'm amazed you haven't noticed, lawyers, accountants, heating engineers to name but three.

You need a licensed version of VCDS and CAN compatible dongle which works with VCDS, the laptop is the least of your worries. For your current application the outlay is considerably greater than paying a specialist to do the work for you.

More than one thanks, but this is a Skoda forum so we 'big up' our Skodas, not the opposition.

There are only two types of injectors, 550 or 520, some ASZ engines have 520's, some have 550's, however all BLT are 520 and all ARL are 550. It really doesn't matter for the OP's application since they all have ample headroom for his expected output. The correct map to use is the map for a BLT VRS with the ARL turbo fitted, expect about 180 BHP, remember the intercooler doesn't make a **** bigger, it just let's you play with it for longer. Ok duck? Twiserable mat.

OMG, show us on the dolly where you felt violated 😱

He's not changing the injectors, he's only changing the turbo, so none of this guff is relevant. ASZ are 520 btw, not that it matters a jot.

Yes, of course it can be welded, it's down to who you use really.

Functionally identical, nothing to worry about. Get some sleep.

Yes you can do that and map out the EGR at the same time.

The new injector would need adapting after installation so you should find an independent VW specialist to do it for you.

Given that it's a 1.6 TDI it's probably number three injector failing so you may need a new one.

I too struggled with this recently and broke the latch because the plastic was brittle, I secured it with a small self tapping screw upon reassembly, make sure you push it as you press the latch before trying to pull it off. Be patient and keep trying until you get it.

Non-genuine parts are fine, honestly the hardest part of the job is reassembling everything so buying a complete regulator and door panel assembly saves time and effort.

If the glass is jammed you'll need to remove the window carrier from the door first, this means drilling out all the rivets including the four that hold the regulator guides, you must also remove the window motor.

You simply have to use a spanner on the pulley nut to take the tension off the pin so you can slide it out using a pair of needle nose pliers.

Get an auto electrician to check the wiring loom where the sensors converge on the ABS unit.

Looks like wiring issues to me, too many separate faults to be a coincidence.

Check that the fuel temperature sensor was reconnected properly when the fuel filter was changed, it's in the top of the filter housing I think. It may also have failed leading to overfuelling and wouldn't throw code like the ECT sensor wouldn't. If in doubt replace them, they're cheap parts.

PD engines are incredibly sensitive to timing. You can also replace the ECT sensor since they're cheap to do.