sepulchrave

J.R. wake up, it's not illegal, no duty is payable on less than 2500 litres in a year. Check the rules before donning the fake helmet!

Adjust it using a pin?

Crisp 'n' dry? 😉 thread/ OP = NO /thread

I mean you don't get the petrol rally car sounds that VRS owners desperately want, you'll get the whoosh and the whistle of course until your turbo breaks.

It'll still sound like a tractor but it might be a little bit louder. I have NEVER heard a diesel engine that sounded good, they don't rev high enough and since there's no throttle you don't get any turbo noises either.

Decats can help petrol engines make more power but make no difference to turbodiesels unless pretty heavily tuned.

Since it won't make any difference to anything then you can just buy one of those cheapies off ebay, I remember when people on here were spending hundreds and hundreds on Milltec stuff that made no difference to anything but the noise it made. Fools and their money...

There's no room under the bonnet on mine because the 2.0 has the inlet runners on top of the head as well, it's really tight under there, I recall my 1.4 16V had a very deep head because the cams were close together.

You'd be surprised, most of what you can see of the head is cams and valve train, the water jacket is really only in the bottom 50mm next to the block deck, the matrix is higher which is why at the first sign of air or gas in the cooling system your heater stops working.

Start by cleaning out the scuttle and changing the cabin filter.

Two grand for a pile of brown crystals in a bra and a blue dress, I doubt it's even an SE. Can you stop posting this crap please, this thread is for people who actually own one of those stupid cars!

Use the recirculation button to stop fresh air coming into the car. You don't have to completely drain the cooling system to replace the heater matrix because the heater is the highest point in the system so you can just drain the tank to lower the coolant level enough.

Exactly, it'll take you about half an hour to do both rear shocks, you don't even have to bother with the springs until you get the fronts done so cosmetic considerations are irrelevant.

This is the problem with these old cars, the plastics are becoming brittle with age.

The rears are a straightforward swap, the fronts are a little more involved.

Blimey, you've got a thin skin, you're gonna need to learn to ignore stuff like that.

Keith isn't in this thread dude.

Nasty, definitely some welding required there, looks tricky too, save yourself a few bob by stripping out the boot carpet and trim above that shock mount so the welder can get at it easily.

Except it's not the same because the Octavia is a Golf and the Fabia is a Polo. Again.

Check em all, from manifold to tailpipe.

Factory Xenons are terrible, however it does sound like your left side high beam solenoid is not working. In another thread recently a guy simply replaced the crappy xenon headlamps for standard halogen units, he had to upgrade the fuses as well but it was an easy conversion otherwise.

Do them one at a time in any order.

Exhaust heat shield.

Only a leakdown test will reveal the valve damage early on in the process.

Newsflash: Skoda stopped making them FIFTEEN years ago, that's why they've all got miles on them. Mileage is not important if the car has been well cared for and has a good history. Buy one that's already been modified and well looked after for maximum bang for your buck.