travs

Mine’s a bit hit or miss but can definitely hear it from the left (nearside) and almost always turning right but occasionally unwinding from right lock or steering left. But we’ve come to the same point from different means so there will be differences. Has the car got DCC? What’s the model and year?

Well with the caveat that you know cars…could any number of other things but that’s where my money is. Happens steering in both directions?

100k on discs and pads is bonkers. Good going!

Front top mounts. I’m getting exactly the same sound after swapping the suspension for coilovers and replacing the standard ones with the items for the Arteon as they are thicker. Think that was a mistake with my setup. Doesn’t happen first thing in the morning when everything’s cold but it happens when it’s warmed up and expanded. The top mounts come in two parts - the mount and the bearing (which allows the suspension leg to twist). My opinion. Get both, absolutely standard OE items for both fronts and have them changed.

There were some things needed from much earlier versions like 156 but I'm note sure when they weren't necessary; to do with FEC/SWAP codes which I think is to do with Navigation licence. Ah found it HERE But I've read some guy having troubles from updating 330 to 332 and that definitely is odd. I've seen plenty of updates from 278 through to 332 (you need 308 as a stepping stone) and nothing about reactivating codes or losing navigation etc. Here's the link to my folder - it has 308, 330 and 332 in; you need 308 first then 332.

What 5F module do you mean Phil? It should be just download and unpack it on a stick, plug it into your car, hold down MENU to enter engineering mode (black screen, small red text) then hit the options to update software. I don't think there's anything else needed... For battery chargers, only CTEK gets mentioned here and they are very good. I bought the CTEK CT5 Start/Stop which sits in the lower middle of the range; does the job for me. I ashamedly bought on Amazon.

276 is a good few years old. I don’t think it’s firmware updates that happen over the air (I’ve never had them) but I think it’ll be things like maps and other Skoda connect services. Do you have a USB-C stick about 8Gb in size? If so you can download the latest versions and update yourself. I’ve got a link with an FTP site where you can download the needed updates.

Will be interesting to read for sure!

Update on this - getting some groaning from the nearside top mount when turning the wheel for manoeuvring; usually when turning right but occasionally when unwinding right lock or turning left. I wonder if it might be down to the Arteon Top mounts being thicker and therefore being more compressed or putting different pressure on the bearing. If its not by design it might be logically sound but still not quite right...

Definitely a stunner there pal, lovely shots. What's the sitch on your downpipe desires btw?

Just to clarify in your post there, the 280 comes with 340 front, 310 rear as standard. All others come with 312 front, 300 rear. There's a few options - but it depends on how you're driving the car and how you intend to and your budget. my initial thoughts are as follows: Move to 340 front and see how that works - the link I sent above will be all you need and gets you onto that size. I think the increased braking area is low hanging fruit, Another very easy thing (as heat dissipation is key) is the RS3 brake ducts. Plenty of places do them, they're OE (Audit Sport developed), fit onto your lower arms with big thick cable ties and feed cold air onto the back of the disc (although for better response, ideally you can cut some grooves in the dust shields too - again, easy when you have the ones from the link above ready to go on the car), If you're getting brake fade, you could consider getting some braided brake hoses and getting them fitted when you next have your fluid changed (they have to drain the system anyway so stands to reason to do it at the same time). If the larger fronts are still not doing it for you, then there are options for aftermarket discs and pads from there.

There’s a thread you’ve commented on that seems to be a successful change. Might be a bit more straightforward finding a second hand set on eBay. Or: This? Would just have to sort the rears then. Should be plug and play quite easily

This is the DCC Slider Mod that gets thrown about. Basically update the software so that rather than have 3 settings of firmness to the shocks you have 15 I think. The standard settings are better than the original boat feeling and you can tweak individual to be any of the new points. You need the files and VCPro or ODIS to do it though. Have still looked at it but the only place I can find the files is MHHauto forum which you need to pay to register. Just need Arteon files stuck somewhere like mibsolution and we could be away.

Nerd!!!! (But good to have the info!) 😜

That additional radiator is a DSG cooler if it’s low down in front of the near side wheel arch.

Link to mhhauto Leaving this here.

Well you did it properly haha! I was B&H and then a lot of time on practically-empty Silk Cut Silver. I used to when I was a lot younger but the drivers window was always fully open (or cracked and the cigarette held out the window if it was raining) and I only ever really had ash smell largely from the rear of the car. It’s a wild thing to do and as you see makes for an awful leftover. The thing I would say about a leather steering wheel: look at it up close, like really close. The grain means there are lots of channels and edges facing different ways. So when cleaning, small circles moving around with the brush as it’s most likely to sweep all of the different faces and edges. No big sweeping moves as the bristles will just flick over most of it.

It is DCC but haven’t found anyone who does the DCC Slider Mod. Last guy we thought would be able to do it was ApertureS but he’s drifted away from the forum. I also only have VCDS and I think you need ODIS or VCPro… Do you know anyone that can help or have you done it yourself?

These companies keep up to date with more modern leather (or faux leather). Also, it’s better to use a specialist leather company like Gliptone, Colourlock or Leather Repair Company, than a generic detailing product company that has interior products.

All done. Bilstein B16s on. The stance is far far better and no wallowing. Sport is very stiff, and the gap between Sport and Comfort is much less but most of all there is no wallowing; it may come at a cost of not absorbing patchy/broken road surface but that is a minute price to pay for everything this improves.

Good shout. Mine is March 2021 and is Gen4. Either way - both decent engines.

Good luck - radio logos are hit and miss. Tried the official and that didn’t work. Tried the downloads from the relevant forum on here and that didn’t seem to work either.

Is this DKZA engine? If so, it’s EA888 Gen3b which is part of the EA888 family which has been a stalwart of almost all VAG sub-brands for years. I wouldn’t think twice about it from everything that I’ve seen on here 👍🏼 Google DKZA engine and you get information. Google DKZA problems and you’ll get a list of issues just like any other engine code.

Where did you read problems with the engine?

Do you mean DCC? Electronic dampers? They look to be about £330 - £380 for a front so for both of them you’re probably looking at £660 - £720 for parts so half a day’s labour on top of that. Quote looks half reasonable if on a high side. Personally I wouldn’t go with originals again. They’re prone to leaking and there’s no guarantee you’ll get any better results. I would look at replacement versions such as Bilstein B4 Damptronic which is their OE version. Cost is probably similar for parts but the quality and longevity is reported to be much higher. Then there’s B6 Damptronic if you wanted to go for a sportier setup.