travs

It’s natural to feel like that but once it’s sorted you’ll feel fine again. They are great cars but yours has had a fair old life already so it’s bound to have some aches and pains.

This came up not too long ago - the MOT guidance has been updated to check for led bulbs in halogen headlight units (in the same way Xenons in halogens are a no-no), but replacing existing Xenon setups with LED bulbs aren’t an issue. The headlight unit has the lens and directionality not to dazzle. But…as Danoid said, they should also be E-marked and none are so unless they came from the factory, that’s not allowed in UK. However, the chances of an MOT tester pulling bulbs and checking is practically non-existent.

As mentioned on proper post (and here for completeness) - test (or change) battery first. Pretty sure that’s not linked to the gearbox issue though so divide and conquer the problems.

Electrical gremlins are most likely battery issue as first easy point. Best is to get a battery tester on it but especially where there seems to be battery involved that’s where the lowest odds would be

Nothing massively evident between 324-330-332 in my experience. For no hassle it’s never a bad thing having the latest firmware anyway though.

Gorgeous but something to be aware of - the tyre size is different to standard Superb: Factory 19x8 is 235/40/19. At 235/35/19, the diameter reduces by 24mm and circumference by 75mm (which is 3.7%). According to Willtheyfit this means 30mph reads 31.1mph on the speedo and 60 reads as 62.2mph on the speedo. There's also a ride height and arch gap loss of 12mm and the wheels will move out from the strut by 11.5mm.

Any chance of finding a VAG specialist int he area who (a) might have cheaper labour and (b) might give you a second opinion…?

Tbh I’d return it. You don’t know whether it’s an annoyance or something more fundamental. You don’t know whether this noise will lead to something else but at the end of the day, it doesn’t matter what you do or don’t know. You didn’t pay money that makes a funny sound, you don’t want a car that does. Looks like Skoda UK are trying to get in front of it or tick down the clock. Pretty sure I’d read KYB did VW and Audi, Monroe did Seat and Skoda.

DCC shocks are pretty well known for being rubbish and leaking. One of mine started leaking at 29k miles/4 years. If so, one thing to do is replace with something like Bilstein B4 Damptronic which are an OE replacement but with a much better reputation. Having said that, presumably all other major suspension components have been checked and ruled out? Bushes are all good? What’s the age and mileage of the car?

Glad you got it sorted - much more annoying to have the outlay only to have the problem come back. Fingers crossed it stays fixed.

What's the model and year? Depends if you have MIB 2, 2.5 or 3. This is no connection at all as opposed to connecting and dropping? From memory, I think Wireless Carplay connects via Bluetooth initially and then hands over to Wi-fi. If its failing to connect in the first place, it might be a bluetooth thing. Having said that the BT connection and hand-off might be quicker than noticeable and the wifi card isn't picking it up. Have you changed the car's wifi SSID? (I changed it to my number plate and that was silly). Or allowed the car to connect to home Wifi? I found doing that meant issues like driving away from home connected to carplay and then dropping the home network and be stranded without an internet connection until the car asks if you want to use the phone's mobile signal etc. I have MIB3 I have found dropping started with with v330 and v332. It happens momentarily once in a blue moon with the cable - that'll do for me.

Good work. You can get barrel brushes to clean the barrels and wheel mitt to run round the inside of the spokes, but that spoke count doesn’t make it easy - those aesthetics come at a price.

What’s your budget @gav_is_con ? Blue one This is interesting as it is a partial facelift - SKODA written on the back, but it has MIB2.5 as there are SD card slots in the glove box. Leather looks like it could do with a bit more of a clean too but don’t let that put you off. Low miles for the age. No sunroof. Lucky at that point to get digital dash too. Grey one Costs more and higher miles but will be a full facelift with the EA888.4 DNFE engine with the decent Continental turbo. Can’t see a sunroof and none mentioned so should be good for that too. Will have MIB3 but money is on the firmware needing updating.

Products depend on dilution ratios as well as pH. Neat HCL Acid is about pH1 and would melt your eyeballs. But diluted 99:1 (99 parts water) is pH1.4 so not much weaker as an acid but you could happily wash your face in it. What you’ve found is that acids are much better at breaking bonds between dirt and wheel than either pH neutral or alkali wheel cleaners. Iron Fallout Remover uses ThioGlycolic Acid which, for the Iron particles in your paint, combine to create ferric thioglycolate which is (a) reddy-purple and (b) water soluble (easy to remove by jet wash). What you’re finding washing wheels is picking up the iron coming off the brake discs, and the acid is a more effective cleaner. So - depending on what acid is being used and its dilution ratio depends on how effective it is and how careful a consumer needs to be (as opposed to a commercial valet/detailer). Erring on the side of caution is definitely the better tack to take but no hazmat suits are needed. Autoglym Clean Wheels has HCL in whereas Turtle Wax Wheel Cleaner has Sulfuric, Oxalic and Phosphoric Acids in. Sound terrible but are in small doses and consumer friendly. HCL will attack aluminium whereas other acids won’t so much. The one acid you want to watch out for is HydroFluoric. It’s a contact poison that gets into your skin and causes damage well after you think you’ve washed it off. Some cheaper manufacturers use it for waterspot removers but that’s generally it. That is the only acid that will attack chrome. All factory finish alloys are clear coated though so won’t have any issue withe these products. Long story short - acids are better at cleaning but more aggressive comparatively. You can also get wheel mitts which allow you to contact wash behind the spokes just to be sure.

I googled to be sure: Part number 3V0035411J is a genuine Skoda/Volkswagen Group bass loudspeaker(woofer) used across several current vehicle models. Product Specifications Part Type: Bass Loudspeaker / Woofer. Driver Type: Midrange/Bass. Impedance: 4 Ω. Weight: Approximately 0.66 kg to 1.08 kg depending on packaging. Placement: Suitable for both front and rear door installations. Vehicle Compatibility This speaker is specifically designed for vehicles equipped with upgraded audio packages, such as the Canton Sound System. It is compatible with: Skoda Superb MK3 (3V): Models from 2015 through 2024. Skoda Karoq (ND/NU7): Models from 2018 onwards. Skoda Kamiq (NW): Models from 2019 onwards. Skoda Scala (NW): Models from 2019 onwards. Seat Ateca (5FP): Models from 2016 onwards. Key Differences from 3V0035411K While both parts are woofers for similar vehicle platforms: 3V0035411J is often listed as the standard bass speaker for a wider range of models including the Kamiq and Scala. 3V0035411K (mentioned previously) is more specifically associated with the high-performance Canton setups in the Superb and Karoq. The "J" version may be interchangeable with the "A" version (3V0035411A) in some catalogs. I think that K is Canton and J is standard. J is updated version of A. As an aside L looks to be rear door so that’s irrelevant. I’m putting my money on J if yours is non-Canton.

Knew I’d seen something’s about speakers recently. I am pretty sure it has been said that there was no difference in the speakers between standard and Canton - just the DSP and amp/sub. Part numbers

So it’s had no service in 2020, 2021 or 2024? In UK, it’s the done thing to have an annual service irrespective of mileage - may seem over the top in some cases but it never hurts to at least change the oil and give the car a once over. It might be fine but personally, unless that’s a standard scenario where you are to service every other year I’d walk away. One of the key things that stops us in UK from looking in other countries is the RHD/LHD thing. If prices are better in other countries can you go over a border and check out options there?

Thanks for that - think I’d just spotted a post with you mentioning them and was going to ask what you thought of them. That sort of price for sub-9kg flow-formed seems better than my expectation at least.

Hate to tag the man in again but @JR RS has done this but it may have been to the rear one. He’ll likely have a part or a how to or knowledge either way

Try also long coding. There is one section where you can select different steering wheel models. I did it and accidentally stopped my heated steering wheel button altogether. It’s one of the last bytes in the chain (if that makes sense) but I cannot remember which section offhand - be it HVAC, Central Electrics etc

Best of luck 👍🏼 Let us know how you get on

@seanw I think this is the light under the door mirror that shines down as another puddle-light type.

Thanks for correcting as ever 😁

It’s not the lights turning, it’s the little triangular corner section underneath which comes on under a certain speed for manoeuvring - well def for facelift versions but think they’re there for pre-FL too

(“Travs”) 🤭 Here you go