travs

Yes there are Haldex service options as well as DSG service options. DSG (DQ381 which you’ll have) is 80k miles. It used to be 40k miles for the pre facelift DQ250 (6speed) but this has been changed for the 7speed. There doesn’t seem to be any sensible rationale discussed on here as being a good reason for change and so most people proactively stick to the 40k limit. It’s up to you however. Personally, if you’re approaching 37/38k miles I’d get it done but it’s your choice. Haldex used to be every 3 years but this was shortened to 2 years (well my Dealer always emailed me about it every other year) so that will be due at the same time. There are mileage alternatives which I’m not sure about but mine has done on average 12k miles between those and has always looked like it needed it. Now - the official service manual includes changing the oil but doesn’t include time for removing the pump and cleaning a filtering gauze which is attached to the end of it. Without cleaning, it will still flow oil slowly and contaminate the fresh oil quicker. Advice has always been to look for a local VAG specialist and check they will do that for you. Mine did and took before and after pics.

Ooh - what's the details on the lower arms. I've got a creaky right hand side which I'm sure is one of the bushes on it so was wondering about options to upgrade them.

Don’t think there’s the feature to - either they do or they don’t. Just check you’re not using hazard flashers to check as I think they just flash normally then. Otherwise there is usually something that is carried over at facelift point depending on what was ready to be updated and what was still on the shelves (a guy at Road Rage Performance was telling me there are some really early 8Y S3s with the EA888.3 engine when they should have the EA888.4). Was yours an early facelift?

That’s not a direct hatchback to estate comparison though; that’s because of the batteries. The non-IV hatchback is 625 litres - cavernous space, slight compromise on the opening and raked rear screen.

Racingline, TVS, Revo all do - 3 easy choices. But appreciate you don't know timelines etc.

Glad it’s all sorted. And a tick in the box for Hortons too.

If you’re going to remap the car some will also code that to off as standard (unless you cycle through the profiles in which case it will switch on as you go through ECO). You can still use the button whenever you want too, it will just be set to off when you first turn the car on rather than on.

It was like a Christmas special episode. Nice find and glad it helps the garage look more cluttered 🤣 Merry Christmas to you too.

You can go aftermarket. I have a set of RacingLine in mine but I don’t think they do anything but provide a decent strong spark over a tired set than provide any sort of performance improvement though tbh. Go with price on that one.

Just get eating walnuts now! That google search I posted mentioned carbon build-up and another poster mentioned it as likely earlier too. Direct injection is the main issue but behaviour can cause it too - short journeys, for example. No harm in changing the plugs and coils anyway. And when changing the coils, to get the electric plug off, fingers behind, pull forward, push tag up with thumb. I’ve wrecked one trying to understand and the above method is super simple.

I don’t know that the firmware will allow updating with the engine on but you can try. The only reason you got the code that I can see is that you had several versions of firmware on the usbstick and the MIB didn’t know which to pick. Especially as there was an earlier version - maybe it looked for that and threw the code. Simplest way to avoid any problems is to unpack 308 on the usbstick only. Run that update, then format the usbstick and put 332 on there only and run that update.

Yes ignition on, engine off. Also wise to have a battery charger on just in case but if the battery is good then you can do it without. That’s up to you though.

you don’t need to upgrade from 270 to 278 to 306. And if you did and tried to go from 306 to 324 it wouldn’t work. You need 308 to progress to the later ones.

Here you go: Click and read through this

Yes the folder you’ve downloaded is 3 different versions, 238, 268 and 278. From 270 you can download 308 and then straight to 332 (324 is the latest on MIBhelper but there has since been 330 and 332). There’s been a few posts recently - I’ll link to one which will have links to the downloadable files and the how-to. Basically, you’re on the right track - extract the files to the root of the usb stick.

I can’t see a downside to this seeing as you know it’s history and getting it cheap. Assuming iV were all auto, has the DSG been serviced twice by now? If not then once by the book but Skoda’s change of oil service interval from 40k to 80k seemed bonkers; so that would be a good one to keep it going.

Nothing wrong with servicing; I think it’s largely mechanically the same. But I looked at tuning it for more RWD and found that no-one supports it yet.

I always thought that seeing as Monroe did the shocks for Skoda and Seat and KYB did the VW and Audi versions, then maybe getting the latter would be a higher quality OE style replacement.

If they won’t put any time into the car before sale, will they flash it to standard straight after sale as a customer? Factor it into your budget. Can’t see it taking very long so maybe shop around for quotes? Don’t get hooked on the current power, if it is the map (and we still don’t know) it’s best it’s off there and you can do a decent safe job of tuning in your hands. Otherwise the BMW could be a solid purchase but again depending on the servicing given the chain issue - delve into the servicing and see what the history is etc?

Just as a quicky - have you been into long coding and changed the steering wheel type so the software knows what to talk to? I have heating and while I was playing about with VCDS I ticked a different option on steering wheel type. Couple of months later when it starting getting cold, heating button doesn’t work at all. No display on the digi-dash. Took it to Skoda to be sorted under warranty, got a new wheel for it. Mechanic said it was odd as it was reporting up to temp. We left it at that. Few months later, I remembered and thought I’d trial and error the steering wheel type option. Lo and behold it comes back. Software wasn’t expected a signal from that button and defaulted the temp to over the thermostat cut-off. No errors, no codes, no light on the dash. Worth a punt.

Also, the DSG should be remapped as well. Which should almost always be TVS.

Depends what the issue is - fuelling, spark, timing, fuel/air ratio (just guessing elements that the map would/could touch). For me, I’d get it off asap. There shouldn’t be a compromise. I have a RacingLine map, no issues. Plenty of other off the shelf maps are the same - otherwise better to take to a reputable tuner who know what they’re doing with these engines who will tune it individually on a rolling road or out on the road. Compared to the 528i - that might have better equipment depending on what trim and let’s face it bit better build quality etc. but it will be older, underpowered, heavier, more common, probably less legroom, definitely less boot space (bmw 560l, superb 625l hatchback/660l estate).

There’s always the option of walking away from a car with a bit of a history; if you’re looking to put money into one then starting from a decent vanilla point is always worth considering.

At this stage it’s just identifying variables and knocking them out until you get to the right one. Biggest one is the map. A techy person would be able to tell if there’s a way of reading the map file and identifying the origin. Otherwise, V5 for the previous owner I guess - can’t be a data breach if it’s on the V5 (which I think the last owner is?). Maybe the spark is retarded in Eco mode and it’s slightly out of kilter and a weak coil/plug is causing a rough idle? It’s all speculation until you start changing things. Quick google also brought up:

You’ll have paddles - pretty sure that’s standard as part of the DSG; if not the 280’s will. Would be good to find when the plugs and coils were changed. DSG is DQ250 - wet clutch 6-speed. Should be good with regular servicing which is oil changes every 40k miles? So should have had 3 by now if on 140k. Not sure on the rough idle being because of the map per se - if it was something that was there all the time then hopefully the previous owner wouldn’t have left it on there. Unless there’s a tolerance within the map that isn’t compensating for something that’s changing. If you’re not bothered about the map (always something you can sort in time) I’d ask them to reflash the ECU back to standard and see if that cures it. You then know for sure and can go from there…