travs

AWD models have 340mm brake discs front, and 310mm rear discs. (FWD have 312mm front and 300mm rear so anything that says that is to be ignored). For example, have just looked on the Ferodo website and filtering for AWD models gives disc sizes of 300mm and, mindbogglingly, 172.5mm whatever that's for! The beauty is that you can put in for VW Golf Mk7 R and you'll get the right parts, and the Audi S3 8V.

Plenty of options over and above the standard ones, although what is your specific concern? If the brakes don't create enough stopping power, then if you can get the ABS to kick in on a dry road, then the brakes work enough, as the tyres are losing traction. If its a case of fading under heavy braking, then pads can solve some of it, but you may also want to change your brake fluid and/or change the flexible brake pipes for braided versions. It may also be worth to replace the discs for cross-drilled and/or grooved version which will also aid colling for repeated heavier braking. For pads, look at Pagid, Ferodo, VBT (VagBremTechnik) for their products. For discs, look at the above, brands and also MTech also do versions which they add a coating to so the non-contact parts stay black rather than rusting to orange. ATE make ceramic pads which are lower dust so the wheels look cleaner for longer. Is your model a FWD or AWD car?

Got under the car to chuck some new bits on. First is a set of brackets which tighten up the propshaft bearing alignment. The original bolts go into slots rather than exact holes which allows for some movement to, argue RacingLine, ease production-line assembly but results in unnecessary stresses in the prop, bushes and bearings. I’m no engineer and while it no doubt doesn’t make much difference to the majority of cars, if driven harder, more exact alignment sounds like a worthwhile exercise to me. And for the cost of a takeaway and 4 13mm bolts: easy. Next was the final chapter to my Dogbone insert saga - a rogue OE component change for one of very limited engine codes meant the classic inserts wouldn’t fit. Powerflex’s versions are only partially affect by the changes so I could trim it down and utilise it. Can feel a tiny more of a sensation when idling but otherwise, really not much to report. I did note that they come in 4 colours for different stiffness - red (for diesels) -> yellow(for petrols) -> purple(for harder driving petrols, track diesels) -> black (track and racing). Being yellow, it’s pretty soft and just its presence in the mount is enough to reduce movement.

And finally put to bed. Had to cut down the legs to fit it in and noted from a YouTube video to jack it up into the voids in the rubber; but the bolt cap fits and feels pretty good in place so happy with finally sorted. DNFE owners be warned.

“Guest” is the username and password. It should be on a pop up but it might not be visible. You may also have to click through a few folders to find what you’re looking for - there’s some sense in the making but not always!

Can't go wrong name-dropping @JR RS for all your Aussie advice and enthusiasm...

You're probably better off finding if there's someone in your area that could do it - doesn't have to be a Superb, any model with MIB2.5 probably has the same systems. Try the Audio, Electronics and Security Forum as there are the Map Update threads there so you could find someone in your area...

Its few and far between - needing either ODIS or VCP are the big pain points because the biggest likelyhood is that the numbers of privateers with access is tiny. Need to start perusing VW and Audi forums to try and find options I think...very keen myself so that's 2 of us and there'll be a few more I would have though - although if you've ever seen a Group Buy thread, the number of people who voice their desire to be included, and those that actually pony up when the time comes aren't the same...

Ultimately a DSG remap can be done on its own and should/will be effective on a standard car or a tuned car. No reason to do with/after an ECU remap except usually some sort of discount for the multibuy. Great for profit margin, but if cashflow timing is a thing, then you lose nothing by focussing on the DSG first.

Powerflex received. The bottom section should definitely fit in the slot in the mount’s rubber; the top may need to be modified to fit as the cutouts have been altered in the revised mount. But given this thing is pretty soft and rubbery there’s hope it’s robust and adds a bit more firmness. Lastly, whether the bolt holder fits into the bolt recess now that the inside of the metal isn’t empty is the final challenge/hope. Ramps sourced to have a good look this week!

Just looked at a set for the Superb - they look great and with 2 littluns this will definitely be useful if they fit well. Cheers for the tip!

Can be solved with a quick photo or put the phone on video and wave it under the car! But for now I’d suspect it’s the troublesome part! I’ve ordered the powerflex part now so if that does fit, then I’ll confirm and it gives you an option. Which is also half the price of the aluminium version too. These poly ones come in different colours for different stiffness in order: red(softest for diesels), yellow(petrol), purple(tuned), black(stiffest for track). I have yellow on order.

Good to have a resolution…and that the battery is actually fine!

2023 7-speed should be DQ381 (wet clutch) as far as I know, but could be DQ200 (7-speed dry clutch) according to wiki. Maybe not in Superb. Googling whether either of them have a filter is a yes. Unless there’s another 7-speed I’ve missed, it sounds as if Rainworth Skoda don’t know what they’re talking about. No great surprise when @numskull was told his camchained engine needed a cambelt change. Exactly the reason forums like this are goldmines of info. Like @Ootohere said; oil change is scheduled to be every 80k miles and the filter only changed every other (ie every 160k miles). To me that’s bonkers but they’ve obviously decided that’s all that’s needed as a compromise between lifetime and owner-maintenance costs. I have a DQ381 and I’ll likely do it every 40k and have the filter done every time. Personal choice but preventive maintenance pays dividends in my opinion.

As with most things, preservation will keep it looking better for longer. Clearcoat can be put back yes. This is always applied when there is restoration work done by leather professionals so there are products out there. When you get jeans dye transfer (classic on light leather colours), it can usually be cleaned off quickly. If left, the dye eats through the clearcoat and into the colour layer. At that point, the clearcoat needs removing, the colour layer re-dyed and then clearcoat put back over. Some higher end vehicles use aniline or semi-aniline leather - this is much more like the real stuff and I think more porous. Volvo have used it, and I’ve seen a C5 RS6 with it but I don’t have much knowledge of it. Whether it’s real or PU, the layers are the same though. Geist restoration - go to 10:58 - this shows clearcoat. Sprayed on and then heat-treated to dry.

I’m a former detailer and have had plenty of conversations with guys who are specialist in leather seats. Essentially, not much of it is leather, it’s more Polyurethane (known as PU leather) which is built up of layers: a base material layer, a colour layer and a clearcoat. Basically, most automotive interior cleaners (properly diluted down if need be) will be fine with a microfibre cloth or leather brush on, and off with a microfibre cloth which helps to get into the pattern a little more. Best advice is to go to somewhere like Leather Repair Company or Colourlock and get a product from an actual dedicated leather company. Be gentle, nothing abrasive or harsh chemicals like All Purpose Cleaners. The clearcoat is designed with UV inhibitors to protect the colour and once this goes you can start to experience the classic fading and cracking. Armrest is the same. Most of all, do your steering wheel! Ideally with the brush to really get into the pattern. Steering wheels get dirty/oily pretty quickly. If it’s black leather, it shouldn’t be black and shiny, it should be charcoal and matt.

Why on earth would it not be changed if it is a changeable part? You don’t leave the engine oil filter when you change the engine oil. Sounds more like the conversation about cleaning the Haldex gauze that dealers don’t do but all specialists do.

So it does one sweep over and stays on the opposite side? Then sweeps back the next time it needs to?

@leolito - you've got the same engine code as me - I think you're going to have the same part as me I think (second to last blue line).

Yes just on my way to my first MOT - EPC light came on; asked them to take a look and it was that. Was a charge to reset it and an ODIS online fee; not sure if ODIS was needed and VCDS couldn’t have done it, or that’s the system they have so that’s what they used. Hadn’t happened since and just been through second MOT so just over a year.

There is a potential on the powerflex item. I appreciate that the Poly material may be harsher (although they have a range of grades of stiffness offered), but it looks from pictures that it fits around the inner metal part, rather than sit in the recess, if that makes sense? What do you guys think? I may need to have the Racingline Upper version removed as the "legs" of the powerflex item fits in that space but otherwise it could work...?

Ok so it’s likely coming straight from outside rather than through the air con system? Can you lay in the footwell, and have someone shine a torch in the engine bay or wheel arch and see if you can see where the source is?

Nuts. Like flogging off old stock. Mind you, I guess it’s entirely irrelevant to 95% of owners who don’t know or care about stuff like this.

Is it outside temp or is it being artificially cooled from the aircon?

Have done mine every 2 years/12k miles. Pretty sure they’ve been similar to that at those distances.