travs

You have software version 324. I never spent any time on it. Basically since 2021 its been: 278 (awful and nothing worked) - 306 - 308 - 324 - 330 - 332. 308 was needed to update after (i.e. you couldn't go from 306 to 330) but you could skip after that. I went 306 - 308 - 330. Painlessly done. Go to this link: Travs' mega.nz site and there is v332 in there. Its safe (there are a couple on here) its just a free ftp site for file downloads. Download and unpack v332 into the root of a usb drive and extract it - there should be 2 folders, DATA and META (I think from memory but don't worry if I've got that wrong). The files will be about 4 or 5Gb so an 8gb stick it fine. Plug it into the car, turn the ignition on, after the MIB has turned on, press and hold Menu button until the MIB reboots into Engineering mode (black screen, red writing) and there should be options there to update - all touch screen still. Some options need a 2nd touch (1 to select, 1 to confirm) and then it should just go through the update itself. Navigation: I see you also have 22.6 navigation data which is old (2022 Month 6 I think is the date format). Go to this thread: here and you should have a link to 2025.02 (25.2). This is where you'll need a 64Gb usb stick as the data is marginally too big to fit on a 32Gb. For this, you just plug it in and leave it to update when the car is on; don't sit there and wait for it as there is no progress bar or procedure. It will take a while to update (its a lot of data) and will pick up where it leaves off as you use the car or park up. Personally, I'd suggest whichever USB port you don't use, get a stick for that and then plug it and leave it. Periodically look back at the software page to see if the version has changed and that's when you know you're done. This is the procedure as they are usually subscription based OTA (over the airwaves) updates which happen silently in the background. Ok I think that's everything - report back if you have any problems...or if its sorted! Oh - radio database don't bother with. Its the thumbnails pics for all the radio statiosn. I've tried everything and nothing seems to work. Save your time on that one.

The theory is sound provided it’s the engine and drivetrain. Don’t know anyone that’s done it. Is this really cheaper than, say, picking up pattern parts on something like Autodoc? Do you need to replace the entire system?

Ah ok - so if OP’s not getting data then sounds like that needs to be looked at. MIB3 is USB-C data, optional USB-A in the armest as you say. Can’t remember how it looks on that media page - but I use to have one of those tiny thumbnail-sized 64Gb USB drives in the armrest port and that came up listed as the name of the it as named in Windows etc. Guess the C-port would just come up the same way but I’ve only ever used it for MIB firmware updates or charging the phone when it’s low as the wireless charger gets so ridiculously hot. Outputs pretty well too for power tbh

Makes sense - almost all posts with electrical gremlins are in the majority battery running out, or more mechanical are wheel speed sensor packing up.

Was the USB port in pre-FL models data for wired Carplay? Or just power given data upload to MIB was through SD card? Wonder if this was a hybrid model with a mix of tech on the switchover from pre-FL to FL if so...otherwise if it was usable for you guys then forget that...

3 keys too. 1 for me, 1 for SWMBO, 1 for when the car is left with the garage (and sits in the fireproof lockbox which will be Faraday-esque) when not in use.

I think for the side items you need to go into the settings on the MIB/Computer - I think you go to Car then there's a choice there to look at Digital Dash and you can change all of the different display options - I'm fairly sure you can change that to average economy for the trip as that's what I have.

@Gammyleg perhaps only if something changes mechanically at 24 degrees - if the system works mechanically above 24 degrees, then there has to be a variable. @TomSko you mentioned the mechanic said there are 2 auxiliary water pumps...but you didn't say whether they had been changed. Maybe they switch? Or the second adds above 24 degrees (no idea on the logic) so the one that deals with low temperature is failing? Can you have the system running at 23.5 degrees (assumed no heat), and get someone to flick it between 23.5 and 24 and see if you can hear anything change anywhere? Under the bonnet, under the dash?

Interesting point last year on KYB @Carlston - I recently read that Seat and Skoda have Monroe DCC (leaktastic) shocks whereas Audi and VW DCC are made by KYB (or technically it said KYB/ZF). They clearly were able to make something better for the budget they were given. I would have thought if someone wanted to keep stock suspension that they could probably go for KYB replacements rather than Monroe, given its all MQB interchangeable (it must be seeing as aftermarket suspension parts share part numbers across VAG).

Are you def on the latest version of the software? I thought 2.5 was pretty stable. Guessing you've probably checked but if not get on it

Don’t worry about rubbish software. Plenty of know-how here to steer you through updating it as well as finding out which version is in it. Don’t count on the dealer having pro-actively updated it during a service - they’d do it if asked by the customer or if a technical bulletin requested it. Otherwise it’s hit or miss depending whether it’s a good dealer or not. Either way, don’t let software scare you out of what could be a good car that you like. All you’d need is an 8Gb USB stick either USB-C or USB-A with an A-C adapter. Or if you’re lucky there might be a USB-A port under the armrest. That is also connected to the data system (ie not just power) but it was an option so not fitted to every vehicle. V278 was awful; as soon as they updated to V306 after that everything was fixed. Since then they’ve had 308, 324, 330 and 332. No real difference between them. I have 332 and it has one disconnect from CarPlay each journey; usually within a couple of mins but sometimes up to 5. Disconnects, reconnects and then never misbehaves for the remaining journey no matter how long. I can live with that.

What are the specifics of the car - trim, engine, year. Has anyone checked the battery? Lots of electrical gremlins start when the battery is on its way out.

Suspension ordered and arrived waiting to be booked in. Went with Bilstein B16 Damptronic adjustable coilovers as it was cheaper than what I could find getting a set of B6s and Eibach springs. They lower 30mm-50mm (current arch gap looks to be c.60mm so halving that will be more than enough) so got to research top mounts (might as well replace them) but I think @MartiniB has some comprehensive ideas around that. Superb bearings and Arteon Top Mounts look to be the ones...

So So much gloss! Looking good still. What's next lined up?

It’s been less stable hardware-wise and earlier versions of software were catastrophic in some cases. Blanking plate sounds like MIB3; Did you happen to spot if it had a USB-C port in front of the gearstick? That’s where software updates are uploaded now the SD card slot has been removed.

324 is there if you're EU. If you're on 306 you need to go to 308 first (which is there) to go any higher. You can then go to 330 or 332 now. All work as I'm on them: MIBsolution MIB3 EU Skoda folder

It makes sense when the car's off to have open flaps; that'll be to make sure its vented and you're not building up moisture (its not designed to predict or determine how long the car's going to be off for, and also if its had multiple short runs it'll have steam to vent as pooled condensation starts to boil off). Might be something to do with back pressure. Had them on my E36 328i and they were operated off a vac pipe which ran the length of the car starting from the inlet manifold. So I think its increased air speed on the inlet causes lower pressure which then sucks on the vac pipe and opens the flap i.e. more throttle opened the flaps. Maybe idle tickover resorted to an open stage anyway.

Yeah pano in the estate. Not sure on the engine. I think it carried over to the Superb mk4 so that forum might have more users with the engine.

It’s not overly surprising about the steering wheel. Some stock items will run out before others. I managed to deactivate my heated steering wheel by a VCDS option so best case scenario with changing it is changing the option. Worst case (and more likely) is changing other parts but it probably depends on which parts have been used. Panoramic roof is meant to be worst than the normal sunroof and not had problems (so someone else will have to comment on that). What engine does it have?

That was a 2021 Mk3. Just dropped the tape measure from the fixed part of the parcel shelf and dropped it down to the boot floor. The hatchback does have a large boot volume so should definitely suit bulky packages

Exactly 56cm too

That's a great link @leolito wish I'd seen that sort of thing ages ago. Although looked at DNFE exhaust and its showing a middle resonator. Mine hasn't got one - they got rid of them from about 2019 onwards but it still shows on 2021 and 2022. However, my car is a real changeover mongrel in some respects. Have already found the Haldex controller is different (and can't be tuned unfortunately).

Looking at the pricing - they seem to be about £370 a corner for B6 DTC. So that’s 1550 for shocks, another 250 for springs so looking at 1800 for parts. Bilstein B16 DTC are on sale for £2k at the moment; not much more of a stretch to get fully integrated coilovers with adjustable ride height. Edit - have found these on sale for £1,750. Same price to get Bilsteins full coilover setup as just uprated shocks and lowering springs 🤯

Agreed on the liberal interpretation of that lifespan. Front right on mine has been pointed out as showing a leak and that’s at 28k/4.5 years.

340mm front discs, 310mm rear. Not sure whether 17s fit over them but doubt it. Michelin Cross Climates get raved about as all seasons.